OIL COOLER LINES
04-06-2009, 07:40 PM
#1
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OIL COOLER LINES
HAS ANYBODY OUT THERE REPLACED THIER OIL COOLER LINES WITH SS BRAIDED HOSES? LOOKING FOR A SOURCE FOR FITTINGS, ETC. MAY REQUIRE REPLACING OIL COOLER ALSO. ALL SPECULATION A THIS POINT. ANY HELP/ADVICE APPRIECIATED. KEEP ON THUMPIN!
04-06-2009, 07:42 PM
#2
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Never seen anything done. Guessing because the are hard lines with flex joints at the ends.
I cut and shortened mine.
If you decide to get rid of the stock cooler please let me know My dad is interested it buying one.
I cut and shortened mine.
If you decide to get rid of the stock cooler please let me know My dad is interested it buying one.
04-06-2009, 08:27 PM
#3
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[QUOTE=Truckinduc;209195]Never seen anything done. Guessing because the are hard lines with flex joints at the ends.
Mine are braided lines.
I cut the stock lines off the fittings which I drilled out to accept AN fittings.
Brazed those into the stock fittings.
Cut the hoses to length, assembled the fittings and installed the cooler.
Got the hoses and fittings from Earl's Supply in Lawndale, Ca.
http://www.anplumbing.com/
Kai Ju
Mine are braided lines.
I cut the stock lines off the fittings which I drilled out to accept AN fittings.
Brazed those into the stock fittings.
Cut the hoses to length, assembled the fittings and installed the cooler.
Got the hoses and fittings from Earl's Supply in Lawndale, Ca.
http://www.anplumbing.com/
Kai Ju
04-22-2009, 06:37 PM
#7
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I'm having corrosion issues w/ mine. Not leaking, but developing some rust acne on them. I assume it has something to do w/ salt and/ or dirt being deposited on them and not being washed down before storage. I was thinking to replace them w/ equal size stainless tubing. Is that realistic?
04-22-2009, 07:16 PM
#8
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I'm having corrosion issues w/ mine. Not leaking, but developing some rust acne on them. I assume it has something to do w/ salt and/ or dirt being deposited on them and not being washed down before storage. I was thinking to replace them w/ equal size stainless tubing. Is that realistic?
On the other hand, it really wasn't that hard to make my own with standard plumbing and AN fittings.
Kai Ju
Last edited by kai ju; 04-22-2009 at 07:21 PM.
04-23-2009, 06:19 PM
#10
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HEY KAI JU NICE WORK. APPEARS THAT'S AN AFTERMARKET OIL COOLER. NEED TO FIGURE OUT WHAT TO DO WITH MINE SINCE I HAD A CLOSE ENCOUNTER WITH AN ARMIDILLO. TEXAS ARMORED RAT!
04-23-2009, 07:59 PM
#12
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Brazing is a joining process whereby a filler metal or alloy is heated to melting temperature above 450 °C (840 °F)—or, by the traditional definition in the United States, above 800 °F (427 °C)—and distributed between two or more close-fitting parts by capillary action. At its liquid temperature, the molten filler metal and flux interacts with a thin layer of the base metal, cooling to form a strong, sealed joint. By definition the melting temperature of the braze alloy is lower (sometimes substantially) than the melting temperature of the materials being joined. The brazed joint becomes a sandwich of different layers, each metallurgically linked to the adjacent layers.
Common brazements are about 1⁄3 as strong as the parent materials[citation needed] due either to the inherent lower yield strength of the braze alloy or to the low fracture toughness of intermetallic components. To create high-strength brazes, a brazement can be annealed to homogenize the grain structure and composition (by diffusion) with that of the parent material . On the other hand, brazed joints in automotive sheet metal are considerably stronger than the surrounding native sheet steel.
As far as AN fittings are concerned, here goes:
The AN thread is a particular type of fitting used to connect flexible hoses and rigid metal tubing that carry fluid. It is a US military-derived specification stemming from a joint standard agreed upon by the Army and Navy, hence AN. The standard is sometimes mistakenly referred to as "Air Force-Navy", but it dates back to World War Two, before there was a separate US Air Force.
AN sizes range from -2 (dash two) to -32 in irregular steps, with each step equating to the OD (outside diameter) of the tubing in 1/16" increments. Therefore, a -8 AN size would be equal to 1/2" OD tube (8 x 1/16 = 1/2). However, this system does not specify the ID (inside diameter) of the tubing because the tube wall can vary in thickness. Each AN size also uses its own standard thread size.
AN fittings are a flare fitting, using 37° flared tubing to form a metal-metal seal. They are similar to other 37° flared fittings, such as JIC fittings, which is their industrial variant. The two are interchangeable in theory, though this is typically not recommended due to the exacting specifications and demands of the aerospace industry. The differences between them relate to thread class (how tight a fit the threads are) and the metals used.
Note that 37° AN and 45° SAE fittings and tooling are not interchangeable due to the different flaring angles. Mixing them can cause leakage at the flare.
The info in the third paragraph allowed me to mix and match AN fittings with common hardware store fittings that I brazed ( there is that word again ) into the cooler/engine adaptors
Kai Ju
P.S. gotta love the internet.
Having said that.............Log Off And Ride
01-05-2011, 04:08 PM
#13
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Join Date: Jul 2008
Posts: 344
[quote=kai ju;209201]
Hey Kai,
Where did you get the oil cooler from (make/model of bike or ATV, other)?
Never seen anything done. Guessing because the are hard lines with flex joints at the ends.
Mine are braided lines.
I cut the stock lines off the fittings which I drilled out to accept AN fittings.
Brazed those into the stock fittings.
Cut the hoses to length, assembled the fittings and installed the cooler.
Got the hoses and fittings from Earl's Supply in Lawndale, Ca.
http://www.anplumbing.com/
Kai Ju
Mine are braided lines.
I cut the stock lines off the fittings which I drilled out to accept AN fittings.
Brazed those into the stock fittings.
Cut the hoses to length, assembled the fittings and installed the cooler.
Got the hoses and fittings from Earl's Supply in Lawndale, Ca.
http://www.anplumbing.com/
Kai Ju
Where did you get the oil cooler from (make/model of bike or ATV, other)?
01-05-2011, 06:27 PM
#15
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Hey, Moonster,
SHOUTING in caps is not just a lazy way of typing, it makes it terribly difficult to read. There are fundamental reasons why type fonts have capitals and lowercase letters and it has to do with the way our brains deal with information. I guarantee that if you were to type your posts correctly and also in all caps, if you put them next to each other and chose what was easier to read, it would be the mechanically correct version. Hope my lesson on written language and the brain isn't received badly. Have a nice day.
SHOUTING in caps is not just a lazy way of typing, it makes it terribly difficult to read. There are fundamental reasons why type fonts have capitals and lowercase letters and it has to do with the way our brains deal with information. I guarantee that if you were to type your posts correctly and also in all caps, if you put them next to each other and chose what was easier to read, it would be the mechanically correct version. Hope my lesson on written language and the brain isn't received badly. Have a nice day.
05-27-2011, 03:46 PM
#16
aka tony.mon, vtr1000.org
Squid
Join Date: Mar 2009
Posts: 45
RC51 four-row fits straight on, with a small twist of the line one side. And the top mounting bracket holes don't line up, but one does, and it hangs on that no trouble.
But I preferred braided lines, so fitted them as suggested above, leaving the standard flexible part in place.
Cools slightly better, which is what I was after as I fitted high comp pistons and it now runs a little hot with a 4 degree advancer in.
But I preferred braided lines, so fitted them as suggested above, leaving the standard flexible part in place.
Cools slightly better, which is what I was after as I fitted high comp pistons and it now runs a little hot with a 4 degree advancer in.
05-27-2011, 04:44 PM
#17
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Join Date: Aug 2007
Location: Lake View Terrace, CA
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These guys list the oil cooler fittings and many different coolers to choose from. I haven't used them, just found it one day while searching.
HONDA VTR1000F Oil Cooler
HONDA VTR1000F Oil Cooler
05-27-2011, 11:30 PM
#18
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Here's a little tip to help the rest of us read your posts. Please, turn the caps lock off when you type. I know you're not, but it's almost like you're yelling at all of us when you leave it on *ducks behind couch*
05-28-2011, 12:13 AM
#19
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Hawk... those are intersting... but 100 bucks seems like a lot for such a small fitting. I wonder if you could hack the old ones to fit? I'd have to look at the bike...
05-28-2011, 01:38 AM
#20
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05-28-2011, 09:17 AM
#21
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Location: Honolulu, Hawaii USA
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These guys list the oil cooler fittings and many different coolers to choose from. I haven't used them, just found it one day while searching.
HONDA VTR1000F Oil Cooler
HONDA VTR1000F Oil Cooler
06-03-2011, 12:32 PM
#22
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Join Date: May 2011
Posts: 9
Can I just remove the oil cooler and not have to worry about anything? I live in Alaska and the outside temperature rarely gets above 70-75. I have a watercooled system on the bike. Can I get away without having the oil cooler?
06-03-2011, 12:47 PM
#23
Rex Kramer-Thrill Seeker
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What's this water cooled system you speak of? Are you referring to the cooling system?
06-03-2011, 01:08 PM
#24
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Join Date: May 2011
Posts: 9
Yes. the cooler is damaged. It rolled up on the tire and basically crushed the fins. I bought the bike with the oil cooler not in the correct position and not using any brackets. I failed to make any permanent bracket before damage occurred. Yes, it has a pretty big radiator for cooling engine temps, at least I hope that's what it's there for.
06-03-2011, 01:12 PM
#25
Out of my mind, back in 5
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Location: Skurup, Sweden
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Yes. the cooler is damaged. It rolled up on the tire and basically crushed the fins. I bought the bike with the oil cooler not in the correct position and not using any brackets. I failed to make any permanent bracket before damage occurred. Yes, it has a pretty big radiator for cooling engine temps, at least I hope that's what it's there for.
06-03-2011, 01:27 PM
#27
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06-03-2011, 09:24 PM
#28
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I would just like to know if anyone else has ever removed the oil cooler from their ride and suffered because of it? The radiator is not the question, but the oil cooler. The temperature gauge has never gone past the first nick from C. I have ridden it for at least two hours straight, turned on and off of course but just for short periods of time.
07-07-2011, 12:16 PM
#29
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I work for a co. pirtek, in st. paul MN. We make hose assemblies ect.
I just replaced the "flex lines" in my oil cooler lines with some SS hose and anodized "AN" style fittings. I just did the length of the original hoses but I'm sure you could do more as long as you found a way to support them a little.
First, we cut the hose out of the line (cut out more if longer hoses are the goal). Next fit a male "AN" (37deg,JIC) "weld ons" to hardline/adapters that go into the block and cooler. Silver soder "weld ons" to hardline/adapters and make a hose to fit.
Wala; a little superhawk bling.
I just replaced the "flex lines" in my oil cooler lines with some SS hose and anodized "AN" style fittings. I just did the length of the original hoses but I'm sure you could do more as long as you found a way to support them a little.
First, we cut the hose out of the line (cut out more if longer hoses are the goal). Next fit a male "AN" (37deg,JIC) "weld ons" to hardline/adapters that go into the block and cooler. Silver soder "weld ons" to hardline/adapters and make a hose to fit.
Wala; a little superhawk bling.
07-13-2011, 06:00 AM
#30
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I work for a co. pirtek, in st. paul MN. We make hose assemblies ect.
I just replaced the "flex lines" in my oil cooler lines with some SS hose and anodized "AN" style fittings. I just did the length of the original hoses but I'm sure you could do more as long as you found a way to support them a little.
First, we cut the hose out of the line (cut out more if longer hoses are the goal). Next fit a male "AN" (37deg,JIC) "weld ons" to hardline/adapters that go into the block and cooler. Silver soder "weld ons" to hardline/adapters and make a hose to fit.
Wala; a little superhawk bling.
I just replaced the "flex lines" in my oil cooler lines with some SS hose and anodized "AN" style fittings. I just did the length of the original hoses but I'm sure you could do more as long as you found a way to support them a little.
First, we cut the hose out of the line (cut out more if longer hoses are the goal). Next fit a male "AN" (37deg,JIC) "weld ons" to hardline/adapters that go into the block and cooler. Silver soder "weld ons" to hardline/adapters and make a hose to fit.
Wala; a little superhawk bling.
