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Old 11-04-2014, 02:46 PM
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New lights

While I wait on my new rear brake caliper mount

Figured I'd install my new lights.

Bought the TRS projector kit with the upgrade bulb in 4500k from the retrofit source $150

New euro OEM honda switch assembly pn 35020-mbb-640 $41

And an hour of my time tonight to put it together

I know
I know pics or it never happened
Film at eleven

Last edited by E.Marquez; 11-04-2014 at 06:11 PM.
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Old 11-04-2014, 02:51 PM
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woohoo!!!! home movies
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Old 11-04-2014, 03:31 PM
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Would love to see how this goes, looking to upgrade mine as well soon
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Old 11-04-2014, 06:41 PM
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The new switch ready to be wired in.
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The KIT
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Old 11-04-2014, 09:01 PM
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Erik

What does the euro switch do for you? I guess with the HID you can't run a HL modulator

BTW, your lightened flywheel is waiting on my winter project list. I hope winter waits a while...
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Old 11-04-2014, 09:20 PM
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Ohhhh man, REALLY want that headlight switch, always wanted the pass toggle and a better solution to keeping the lights turned off during startup. I have a TRS projector as well, so this might be ordered soon. It's plug and play I assume?
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Old 11-04-2014, 10:36 PM
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I do want to see the outcome and procedure of this episode. What does the passing button do again? Is it a high beam flasher or like a modulator that strobes it for you? Those crazy Euronians.
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Old 11-05-2014, 04:26 AM
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Originally Posted by skokievtr View Post
Erik

What does the euro switch do for you? I guess with the HID you can't run a HL modulator

BTW, your lightened flywheel is waiting on my winter project list. I hope winter waits a while...
The euro switch assembly has a headlight ON/OFF switch. I will use this so I can start the bike with the ballast powered down.

Hid bulbs and ballast Do not last long with continued low voltage dips and refire attempts

The euro assembly also has the flash to pass function. It just momentarily flash the high beam

And at $41 I get a nice shiney new switch assembly

Last edited by E.Marquez; 11-05-2014 at 04:29 AM.
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Old 11-05-2014, 10:05 AM
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Plus you get a new turn sig switch that will work in colder temps if that applies. I installed a headlight cutout switch for when I need it. Be careful to not forget and ride with it off. Raises danger level considerably.
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Old 11-05-2014, 11:32 AM
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you guys make me laugh how excited you get over our switches lol
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Old 11-05-2014, 02:29 PM
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Where did you get the switch? I've been looking for a place to get that other than ebay.uk.
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Old 11-05-2014, 02:52 PM
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What positions does the switch have? OFF / PARKING LIGHTS / HEADLIGHT or is there a position for hazard flashers on there?
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Old 11-05-2014, 03:18 PM
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Originally Posted by lloydievtr View Post
you guys make me laugh how excited you get over our switches lol
Excited?
Naw.. just a simple solution to adding a on/off switch to the headlight for start up... Which in my opinion, is only necessary due to the bike being an old design not set up for HID.s

Running without a headlight on is not the brightest(pun intended) ideas.
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Old 11-05-2014, 03:21 PM
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Originally Posted by taskmasta View Post
Where did you get the switch? I've been looking for a place to get that other than ebay.uk.
You can order it though any Honda dealer, or online parts dealer. See part number above. My cost was $38, I think internet street cost is $47 35020-mbb-640 Partzilla Search
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Old 11-05-2014, 04:42 PM
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Originally Posted by lloydievtr View Post
you guys make me laugh how excited you get over our switches lol
As long as they keep it below the Patrick Bateman business card level we'll be OK...
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Old 11-05-2014, 05:42 PM
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The European Switch is almost plug and play into the US wiring loom. If I remember correctly one plug is direct fit the other needs a few wires rearranged to the correct location. And a few wires won't have homes. We worked it out Here. I can always run out and double check if needed.

And the off position is great for the HID setup, and the passing switch as well for that matter
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Old 11-05-2014, 07:19 PM
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Originally Posted by Mikael View Post
The European Switch is almost plug and play into the US wiring loom. If I remember correctly one plug is direct fit the other needs a few wires rearranged to the correct location. And a few wires won't have homes. We worked it out Here. I can always run out and double check if needed.

And the off position is great for the HID setup, and the passing switch as well for that matter
Mikael

Thanks

Im using your post as my plan for the swap..

Think its under control, but darn sure will ask questions of you if I get stuck
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Old 11-10-2014, 01:41 PM
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Originally Posted by Mikael View Post
The European Switch is almost plug and play into the US wiring loom. If I remember correctly one plug is direct fit the other needs a few wires rearranged to the correct location. And a few wires won't have homes. We worked it out Here. I can always run out and double check if needed.

And the off position is great for the HID setup, and the passing switch as well for that matter
Started my light project this afternoon.
1st issue, not only do the wires need to be adjusted.. one of the two plugs is completely different.. and will need to be changed as well.
Old switch plugs on left, new Euro switch plugs on right
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So need to figure that stuff out first.
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Old 11-10-2014, 03:42 PM
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What we have discovered is, while there may be some non Euro models that are "mostly plug and play" the Made June 1997 Non CA VTR1000F I have in front of me, is anything but.


1 Plug housing does not physically mate
Almost none of the pins are in the same location US to Euro.


And of course functionality of one switch assembly and wiring harness is much different than the other.

Let the games begin
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Old 11-10-2014, 04:58 PM
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Originally Posted by lloydievtr View Post
you guys make me laugh how excited you get over our switches lol
Euro witches are exciting! They're all foreign, have sexy accents and do things that ours don't

Last edited by xeris; 11-10-2014 at 05:01 PM. Reason: sp
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Old 11-10-2014, 05:13 PM
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Have been following this swap with interest.
Have you considered picking out the terminals and installing into a matching connector? I thing what is being used is this Motorcycle 2.8mm - 110 Connector and Terminals
I purchased a bunch of parts from them and was very satisfied.
Just a thought for you to ponder.
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Old 11-10-2014, 05:14 PM
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Have been following this swap with interest.
Have you considered picking out the terminals and installing into a matching connector? I think this is the connecto being used: Motorcycle 2.8mm - 110 Connector and Terminals
I purchased a bunch of parts from them and was very satisfied.
Just a thought for you to ponder.
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Old 11-10-2014, 05:52 PM
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Originally Posted by xeris View Post
Have been following this swap with interest.
Have you considered picking out the terminals and installing into a matching connector? I thing what is being used is this Motorcycle 2.8mm - 110 Connector and Terminals
I purchased a bunch of parts from them and was very satisfied.
Just a thought for you to ponder.
That's exact what I did..
1st mapped each pin location / wire color / function for both US (old) Euro (new) switch assembly.
Traced the mating pin on the harness plug and confirmed what It looked like the switch did, was connected to the correct electrical component.


Took pictures of all 6 plugs from all sides so it could be referenced later.
Pulled pins from the old plugs so I had the plug shell.
Then one a a time removed pins form the new switch plugs and placed it in the correct location in the old matching plug.


30 min later, I have a working Euro switch assembly wired to a US bike. All functions work as desired.
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Old 11-10-2014, 06:48 PM
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Any chance you could post up what you learned moving the pins around in the old plug? I have the Euro switch on the way. thanks
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Old 11-10-2014, 07:04 PM
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Originally Posted by HawkRider98 View Post
Any chance you could post up what you learned moving the pins around in the old plug? I have the Euro switch on the way. thanks
I'll post a pin out of what I used.

I also chose to wire the third light to the intended brown wire in the Euro switch . There is a open spot in the US large green 9P connector shell, but I was out of that type of pins tonight, so I used an OEM style bullet connector.
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Old 11-10-2014, 08:35 PM
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Here is the pin out I used to set EURO left side switch assembly pins(wires) in to the US switch assembly connectors


Pins can be released from the connector housing by using a very small flat blade screw driver.. think Micro precision . A small nail or stiff wire ground flat works as well.
Attached Thumbnails New lights-eu-switch-pin-out.jpg  
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Old 11-11-2014, 01:05 PM
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On to the projector install... hey this should only take a few minutes, it's plug and play like the switch...right?.....RIGHT?

Errrr, No not even close.
So lets get busy
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Bake open the light, 265 for 7 min did it for me.. gently pry the locking tabs open when separating the housing and it comes right apart.
Keep the mastic clean or it will not reseal.

Like others have noted, the projector will set at an angle if not corrected.

Some grind the tabs, others mod the housing.. I did both... but first the indexing ring.
Remove the tab that indexes the light
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install in housing, mark needed location weld on a new tab, shape to fit with files...
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Next two issues.. projector does not protrude through the housing far enough to leave room for the bulb lock ring. AND the projector lock ring will only touch the two high points on the housing where the H4 bulb wire lock fits..
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Trimming the housing so the lock ring mating surface is flat was my decision.. I know have 360 seating . And with those two protrusion cut off, the lock ring screws down nicely leaving 5mm of projector remaining for the bulb lock ring.
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All fixed
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So projector mounted, headlight re sealed.. on to the routing, mounting, modifying the harness and getting it wired up.
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Old 11-11-2014, 02:23 PM
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Instructions.. we don't need no stinking instructions...
So that "HighBeam" out put,,,, ya it plugs into the projector..... not just a trigger source.

I wrongly assumed (assumed because there are NO real instructions for this thing) that the two pin female connector on the projector was for the optional Halo light..WRONG
Warming up the oven again time Meow
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Old 11-11-2014, 07:08 PM
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Self induced mistake number 2...

Im a product of my environment.. When I travel .... I would have to drive in LEFT HAND DRIVE countries.. because they drive on the LEFT HAND side of the road...

TRS defines left and right hand drive as where the driver sits ...like you would in the US for a special permitted right hand drive vehicle (postal or import)

So I screwed up and ordered a RHD lens...... On the bright side, TRS was GREAT in setting up the exchange at no cost. I elected to have the correct projector shipped immediately and return the wrong one later.. So I paid a "core" and shipping now and will be refunded once the other is received.

Lesson is... LHD/RHD is based on DRIVER position, not what side of the road you drive on.

Last edited by E.Marquez; 09-06-2016 at 07:40 AM.
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Old 11-11-2014, 08:08 PM
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Next issue... the positive wire fuse holder which is an open non sealed design, and the placement on the OEM cable put it in an inaccessible position behind the frame.

So I cut out the OEM fuse holder , soldered some marine grade (tinned) 12ga wire, and a weather sealed Mini ATO fuse holder
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You can see where the black braided covering ends... that plus 1 in is where the open unsealed type full size ATO fuse holder would have been... Good enough no doubt... but I wanted it to be a sealed, mini ATO so it matched all other fuse types, and in a more accessible location..

All temporary anyway as I'm adding a FZ1 fuse box as soon as it comes in. I have one sitting on the bench for a customer who is not looking to get his bike back for two more weeks...so tempting to use that one now and wait on the ordered one.... but thats just wrong..and with my luck the ordered one will get lost in shipping.
http://www.fuzeblocks.com/



If you have not heard about the FZ1 fuse block...its a neat deal. ATO mini fuses, compact overall, each circuit is selectable as switched or no based on fuse position.
One connection to the battery ridding the battery of those multiple terminals and several relays if you have several accessories wired in.

I've installed and wired 4 of these now, been in service for many months no issues. I learned of this product on a pair of Adventure bikes I came to work on http://www.twtex.com/forums/showthread.php?t=90264
They lasted almost a year on the road from canada to south america and back

Last edited by E.Marquez; 09-14-2018 at 07:00 AM. Reason: pic added
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