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M. I. nuts??

Old 02-05-2012, 07:46 AM
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M. I. nuts??

I've read many entries from folks who put handlebar risers on their S'Hawks for a more upright riding position. None I've read so far indicated any bad consequences...so far.

So I set about acquiring all the hardware to make a similar conversion to a Renthal Superbike bar installation. I have the whole thing built with a black upper triple and black RSI risers to match the colors on the '02 model I have.

BUT... now that I have the pieces ready to swap it suddenly occurs to me the upper triple is cast aluminum, never designed to be drilled and have risers bolted on. I am thinking if this setup ever fails, it will be precisely at the wrong time i.e.: panic stop, or panic maneuver situation ending in disastrous results to me and my SuperHawk.

Does anyone have more extensive structural, metallurgical, commonsensical, experiential knowledge of these conversions and the increased risk assumed?? I am pretty sure I know what Honda's lawyers would say, so I already realize MMMV irregardless of any opinions expressed here.
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Old 02-05-2012, 08:10 AM
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You could turn the upper triple upside down and fill it with epoxy, JB Weld, or something of the sort to reinforce and distribute the load of the hardware.
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Old 02-05-2012, 08:47 AM
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If you go that route. I would use a thick wall piece of tube, cut to length, flush with what will be the surface of the filled underneath of the clamp (so leave it a little long until filled, then grind down level) That way the fastener and tube would be transferring the load to the clamp surface, and tube would be supported by the metal epoxy.

I don’t have a non destructive test method to prove my position, but to me, it makes sense.. That should be a warning sign,, so you’re on your own..
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Old 02-05-2012, 09:54 AM
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What I did when I made a set for someone was to get some 6061 plate.

I don't remember how thick it was but it was the thickest that would fit in the cutouts on the underside of the triple and still be a little under flush.

Then cut it out so it fits in the clamp, it doesn't have to be perfect but you want it to fill most of the area.

Clamp them in place and drill the mount holes through both the triple and the plates.

Use JB weld under the plates and bolt the plate in with the bar mount.

Fill in around the plates with JB weld, let it sit over night and you are good to go..... but remember you heard it from some guy on the net...
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Old 02-05-2012, 10:47 AM
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Thanks all. I have been wondering about the JB Weld route. I think I might consider it a bit further before proceeding... carefully.
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Old 02-05-2012, 03:22 PM
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I just put some large washers underneath the bolts for the bar clamps. Figured that would disperse the weight over a larger area.

One drawback I had is that at lock to lock the bars would impact the tank. When I made a u-turn I'd hit the horn switch against the tank, lol...

Caught me by surprise a couple times...

Why not just try and find a pair of VFR bars if you're sticking with the stock VTR front end?

I went back to the stock front end and picked up a pair from Gareth (a.k.a. Partsman).

Seemed a simpler setup for the streetbike.

My clamp and bar set-up was on an F4i front end, but the stock front end sprung for my weight with VFR bars seemed a better bet.
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Old 02-05-2012, 10:03 PM
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You still might be nuts......
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Old 02-06-2012, 03:51 AM
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Originally Posted by smokinjoe73 View Post
You still might be nuts......
Yes that's true.
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Old 02-06-2012, 12:09 PM
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I used JB Weld just to hold the plate in place when there is no load on it.

The plates are just big washers that spread the load over most of the clamp and the bolts are what take the load. So you could run it without the JB weld if you wanted to, it just gives it that little extra in case a mount bolt breaks or some other crazy ****....
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Old 02-06-2012, 02:58 PM
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Originally Posted by 8541Hawk View Post
I used JB Weld just to hold the plate in place when there is no load on it.

The plates are just big washers that spread the load over most of the clamp and the bolts are what take the load. So you could run it without the JB weld if you wanted to, it just gives it that little extra in case a mount bolt breaks or some other crazy ****....
Gotcha. I was thinking the same thing. The plate does the majority of the work, but some JB in the voids might help distribute the stresses to a wider area still. I have a machine shop near by that might cough up a couple "samples" for 6061 plate.
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