List of Bolt-On Front Brake Mods
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Joined: Jun 2012
Posts: 211
From: Hagerstown, MD
Hey all Just purchased a F4i MC/calipers setup on ebay, stoked to get them on the bike.
For those of you who have them do you know the size of the bleeder nipple? Im looking to toss a pair of speed bleeders on there after installing the setup along with my Galfer ss lines. are they 8mm?
Thanks guys this thread has been a big help with doing the conversion.
For those of you who have them do you know the size of the bleeder nipple? Im looking to toss a pair of speed bleeders on there after installing the setup along with my Galfer ss lines. are they 8mm?
Thanks guys this thread has been a big help with doing the conversion.
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Posts: 211
From: Hagerstown, MD
Also in case any of you have to crack open your calipers to replace seals.
00 CBR F4 F/R Caliper seals part #'s below
Piston A Seals
QTY: 8
Part #: 06451-MA7-405
Description: SEAL SET, PISTON
Price: 8.49 each
Piston B Seals
QtY: 8
Part #: 06451-961-405
Description: SEAL SET, PISTON
Price: 5.29 each
Not sure if these translate into later year F4I models but figured id put it up incase they do.
I found the set I ordered even though in great shape were starting to oxidize on the inside from sitting for so long. So this took my great deal of 70 bucks on new calipers and MC to 170 haha with new seals however peace of mind knowing my upgrade is fully complete and going to last i feel good about the pricing.
00 CBR F4 F/R Caliper seals part #'s below
Piston A Seals
QTY: 8
Part #: 06451-MA7-405
Description: SEAL SET, PISTON
Price: 8.49 each
Piston B Seals
QtY: 8
Part #: 06451-961-405
Description: SEAL SET, PISTON
Price: 5.29 each
Not sure if these translate into later year F4I models but figured id put it up incase they do.
I found the set I ordered even though in great shape were starting to oxidize on the inside from sitting for so long. So this took my great deal of 70 bucks on new calipers and MC to 170 haha with new seals however peace of mind knowing my upgrade is fully complete and going to last i feel good about the pricing.
Out of my mind, back in 5
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Joined: Nov 2006
Posts: 6,109
From: Skurup, Sweden
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Squid
Joined: Sep 2010
Posts: 3
From: Blackpool UK
6 pot calipers
Hi Guys, awesome thread 
i've just got hold of a set of tokico 6 pots off a gsxr 1000 k1, what i need to know is what 16mm master cylinder can i use that will allow me to use my existing aftermarket vtr levers?
cheers
i've just got hold of a set of tokico 6 pots off a gsxr 1000 k1, what i need to know is what 16mm master cylinder can i use that will allow me to use my existing aftermarket vtr levers? cheers
Last edited by mactat2; Jan 6, 2013 at 03:50 AM. Reason: spelling
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MotoGP
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From: Gettysburg, Pa
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Posts: 195
From: Chattanooga,TN
Just contacted a racer friend that used to flog a 99 F4 for a few years and guess what he has in his garage waiting on me to bring him a $100 bill?
Six pots and a 2003 600RR master cylinder!!
Six pots and a 2003 600RR master cylinder!!
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Posts: 120
Anybody know if any other 6 pot calipers work? There are some on ebay that look identical to the GSXR 1000 6 pot calipers but are off a suzuki bandit 1200. If only they had dimensions!
Front Brake Calipers 6 Pot Bandit 1200 GSF1200 GSF Suzuki 98 Up Pads | eBay
Front Brake Calipers 6 Pot Bandit 1200 GSF1200 GSF Suzuki 98 Up Pads | eBay
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SuperBike
Joined: Oct 2007
Posts: 1,082
From: Menifee, CA
Anybody know if any other 6 pot calipers work? There are some on ebay that look identical to the GSXR 1000 6 pot calipers but are off a suzuki bandit 1200. If only they had dimensions!
Front Brake Calipers 6 Pot Bandit 1200 GSF1200 GSF Suzuki 98 Up Pads | eBay
Front Brake Calipers 6 Pot Bandit 1200 GSF1200 GSF Suzuki 98 Up Pads | eBay
Last edited by HRCA#1; Nov 17, 2013 at 08:31 PM.
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Posts: 120
the boss
SuperBike
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Joined: Mar 2010
Posts: 1,182
From: largo,fl
Anybody know if any other 6 pot calipers work? There are some on ebay that look identical to the GSXR 1000 6 pot calipers but are off a suzuki bandit 1200. If only they had dimensions!
Front Brake Calipers 6 Pot Bandit 1200 GSF1200 GSF Suzuki 98 Up Pads | eBay
these will not work at all,same design,but the bolt that is at the bottom of the caliper sits too far out from the cylinder.
this is the only difference from the gsxr ones for certain years,which is 200o and 2001 i beleive,if im wrong,others will chime in.
Front Brake Calipers 6 Pot Bandit 1200 GSF1200 GSF Suzuki 98 Up Pads | eBay
these will not work at all,same design,but the bolt that is at the bottom of the caliper sits too far out from the cylinder.
this is the only difference from the gsxr ones for certain years,which is 200o and 2001 i beleive,if im wrong,others will chime in.
Last edited by saige; Nov 17, 2013 at 10:26 PM.
Senior Member
Back Marker
Joined: May 2013
Posts: 120
Anybody know if any other 6 pot calipers work? There are some on ebay that look identical to the GSXR 1000 6 pot calipers but are off a suzuki bandit 1200. If only they had dimensions!
Front Brake Calipers 6 Pot Bandit 1200 GSF1200 GSF Suzuki 98 Up Pads | eBay
these will not work at all,same design,but the bolt that is at the bottom of the caliper sits too far out from the cylinder.
this is the only difference from the gsxr ones for certain years,which is 200o and 2001 i beleive,if im wrong,others will chime in.
Front Brake Calipers 6 Pot Bandit 1200 GSF1200 GSF Suzuki 98 Up Pads | eBay
these will not work at all,same design,but the bolt that is at the bottom of the caliper sits too far out from the cylinder.
this is the only difference from the gsxr ones for certain years,which is 200o and 2001 i beleive,if im wrong,others will chime in.
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Squid
Joined: Dec 2012
Posts: 47
I just installed F4i calipers on mine. I did grind a small amount off the caliper but the majority of my grinding was of the fork bracket. I felt there was a huge amount of meat on the bracket which could be safely removed. Grinding the caliper housing seemed higher-risk as you never know how much thickness you have left.
I kept my standard master cylinder and the combination works perfectly fine.
Great mod!
I kept my standard master cylinder and the combination works perfectly fine.
Great mod!
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SuperSport
Joined: Apr 2014
Posts: 932
From: Auckland, new Zealand
Not to ask the obvious but why cant you bore and sleeve the stock M/C to what ever size you want and get a matching piston? I would have thought that would be cheaper and you will know all the parts are new.
Im going to do that for my clutch MC to soften it a bit.
Im going to do that for my clutch MC to soften it a bit.
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MotoGP
Joined: Jul 2007
Posts: 5,066
From: NYC
I think ebay parts are way cheaper and more risk averse than boring your current unit.
They put a lot of engineering into those things and you really have to question is that the system on your bike you want a question mark as far as integrity?
I have lost front brakes on the racetrack and would not even step in the direction of going there again.
They put a lot of engineering into those things and you really have to question is that the system on your bike you want a question mark as far as integrity?
I have lost front brakes on the racetrack and would not even step in the direction of going there again.
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SuperSport
Joined: Apr 2014
Posts: 932
From: Auckland, new Zealand
I think ebay parts are way cheaper and more risk averse than boring your current unit.
They put a lot of engineering into those things and you really have to question is that the system on your bike you want a question mark as far as integrity?
I have lost front brakes on the racetrack and would not even step in the direction of going there again.
They put a lot of engineering into those things and you really have to question is that the system on your bike you want a question mark as far as integrity?
I have lost front brakes on the racetrack and would not even step in the direction of going there again.
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Posts: 189
My front brake mods cost $100, and made a night and day difference to my bike.
Galfer SS lines - $95
New fluid - $5
Removed calipers, removed pads, pumped pistons out 5mm or so, cleaned the scum off the pistons using an old (not my wifes) toothbrush, water and a few drops of dish soap (I do this every winter)
Bled the lines
Put a bungee cord around my lever over night
Rock hard brake lever. Feels better than a lot of newer bikes.
I wonder how many folks are replacing old equipment that would function better with SS lines, clean pistons, and fresh fluid. Granted, it's fun to "upgrade" parts, but my brakes are fantastic now, from mushy and weak when I got the bike.
Flame on with the "yeah but I bet mine are better"
Galfer SS lines - $95
New fluid - $5
Removed calipers, removed pads, pumped pistons out 5mm or so, cleaned the scum off the pistons using an old (not my wifes) toothbrush, water and a few drops of dish soap (I do this every winter)
Bled the lines
Put a bungee cord around my lever over night
Rock hard brake lever. Feels better than a lot of newer bikes.
I wonder how many folks are replacing old equipment that would function better with SS lines, clean pistons, and fresh fluid. Granted, it's fun to "upgrade" parts, but my brakes are fantastic now, from mushy and weak when I got the bike.
Flame on with the "yeah but I bet mine are better"
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MotoGP
Joined: Jul 2007
Posts: 5,219
From: Gettysburg, Pa
I certainly won't
because I agree with you. SS lines can be had cheaper if you're patient and watch ebay.
But I will add... the f4i swap takes it a step further and can also be done on the cheap. Tons of parts on the bay. YMMV
because I agree with you. SS lines can be had cheaper if you're patient and watch ebay.
But I will add... the f4i swap takes it a step further and can also be done on the cheap. Tons of parts on the bay. YMMV
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MotoGP
Joined: Jul 2007
Posts: 5,066
From: NYC
Yes Andy. You will be on here reposting after you put on F4i brakes and HH pads. They can be had mad cheap and are IMHO by far the best bang for the buck upgrade. Way stronger braking.
The lines help prevent line bulge but the f4i brakes are hugely more powerful and therefore safer.
The lines help prevent line bulge but the f4i brakes are hugely more powerful and therefore safer.
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Superstock
Joined: Nov 2014
Posts: 416
From: Middletown, CT
Braking feel and power!
Just a note on brake fluid and the effect on brake lever feel, brake modulation and ultimately on overall power of the braking system.
During my 15 years of road racing, I started a regimen of brake maintenance after the first two years that served me well. I would change the brake fluid out on the front system every month, and on the rear 2 - 3 times a season.
Brake fluid (any DOT 3, 4) starts to absorb moisture from the atmosphere as soon as the bottle is opened. It will continue to do this while in the braking system.
While moisture a.k.a. water a.k.a. H2O is a non-compressible medium, O2 is not. When you brake your system generates heat (that is what braking is, the transfer of kinetic energy to heat), the heat separates the O2 from the hydrogen, and the brake fluid holds molecules of O2 in suspension. These molecules sometimes will collect enough to be bled out, but usually they just wander about causing the brakes to feel spongy, add to this that they slow down modulation of the braking, i.e. you apply, they compress until the pressure in the molecule goes up enough to transfer your lever force (it must go up a considerable amount) and contributes to pushing the caliper pucks out. Then on release of your braking pressure they actually maintain braking pressure longer than you would like, as they expand… Not good when trail braking.
There really is no good substitute for fresh brake fluid, and a freshly bled system, lever feel, increased power, and micrometer precise modulation… It’s all there.
If your brakes fade at a track day or on a super-spirited ride most likely the fluid is junk and needs to be changed out.
Now talking about fluid! Is there a difference between Honda Dot4 and the fancy boutique Dot4? Yes, the main difference is the boiling point, and the fancy fluids offer a much higher boiling point, which is great in racing. My fav after trying over ten brands is the MOTUL Blue, now replaced with their RBF660… Spectacular lever feel and amazing modulation. Here is the down side to fancy brake fluid for the street… The higher the boiling point, the more moisture said fluid will ingest, (nature of the beast) hence the more air it will make, hence the spongier your brakes will get... Also as it ingests the moisture/air the boiling temp goes down considerably. The RBF660 DOT 4 has dry (new) B.P. of 662 degrees F, wet (old) it drops to 399 degrees F. Compare this with Pro Honda Dot4 fluid which has a boiling point of 449 degrees F dry (new). So if you are racing and changing it out every 30 days or even every race weekend, no issue, but on the street that is a pain-in-the-*** and very expensive. Buy Honda DOT 4 change it out at the very minimum every two seasons and install a bleeder banjo on your master cylinders they make getting rock hard brake lever feel super easy. Bleed twice a riding season…
P.S. The moisture ingested by the fluid is corrosive to braking and clutch systems, in master & slave cylinders and calipers.
OK, I’m done! Happy braking to all!
During my 15 years of road racing, I started a regimen of brake maintenance after the first two years that served me well. I would change the brake fluid out on the front system every month, and on the rear 2 - 3 times a season.
Brake fluid (any DOT 3, 4) starts to absorb moisture from the atmosphere as soon as the bottle is opened. It will continue to do this while in the braking system.
While moisture a.k.a. water a.k.a. H2O is a non-compressible medium, O2 is not. When you brake your system generates heat (that is what braking is, the transfer of kinetic energy to heat), the heat separates the O2 from the hydrogen, and the brake fluid holds molecules of O2 in suspension. These molecules sometimes will collect enough to be bled out, but usually they just wander about causing the brakes to feel spongy, add to this that they slow down modulation of the braking, i.e. you apply, they compress until the pressure in the molecule goes up enough to transfer your lever force (it must go up a considerable amount) and contributes to pushing the caliper pucks out. Then on release of your braking pressure they actually maintain braking pressure longer than you would like, as they expand… Not good when trail braking.
There really is no good substitute for fresh brake fluid, and a freshly bled system, lever feel, increased power, and micrometer precise modulation… It’s all there.
If your brakes fade at a track day or on a super-spirited ride most likely the fluid is junk and needs to be changed out.
Now talking about fluid! Is there a difference between Honda Dot4 and the fancy boutique Dot4? Yes, the main difference is the boiling point, and the fancy fluids offer a much higher boiling point, which is great in racing. My fav after trying over ten brands is the MOTUL Blue, now replaced with their RBF660… Spectacular lever feel and amazing modulation. Here is the down side to fancy brake fluid for the street… The higher the boiling point, the more moisture said fluid will ingest, (nature of the beast) hence the more air it will make, hence the spongier your brakes will get... Also as it ingests the moisture/air the boiling temp goes down considerably. The RBF660 DOT 4 has dry (new) B.P. of 662 degrees F, wet (old) it drops to 399 degrees F. Compare this with Pro Honda Dot4 fluid which has a boiling point of 449 degrees F dry (new). So if you are racing and changing it out every 30 days or even every race weekend, no issue, but on the street that is a pain-in-the-*** and very expensive. Buy Honda DOT 4 change it out at the very minimum every two seasons and install a bleeder banjo on your master cylinders they make getting rock hard brake lever feel super easy. Bleed twice a riding season…
P.S. The moisture ingested by the fluid is corrosive to braking and clutch systems, in master & slave cylinders and calipers.
OK, I’m done! Happy braking to all!
Last edited by Fastguy59; Apr 21, 2016 at 05:45 PM.
