JE pistons.
yea but you can always go back and throw in either STG 1 or reground cams later. thts what im doing. i think with my HPower stacks and my lgihtened flywheel, My JE pistons should work very nicely even without cams. obviously cams would top it off beautifully though
Just bought velocity stacks from Bill at HPower. He no longer had cams. I'm not sure if he does regrind though.
Kenmoore you have JE pistons? Did you use oversize or sad bore? I bought a set of std bored 11.5:1 JEs. How does she ride?
Kenmoore you have JE pistons? Did you use oversize or sad bore? I bought a set of std bored 11.5:1 JEs. How does she ride?
I ran my JE-shod engine with stock cams, Yosh Stg 1 and now Mori Stg 1 cams and can say that the stock cams work very nicely with a street engine. In fact, the low and mids are stronger with the stockers, the more aggressive cams only getting the upper hand once the revs climb over 6K rpm. For example, at normal highway/freeway speeds the stockers pull harder (at least initially). Truth be told, come next valve adjustment, I will give serious though to putting the stockers back in (I don't rev the crap out of my bike, relying on mid-range torque to hustle me along, and the stockers are actually better in this regard)....
I ran my JE-shod engine with stock cams, Yosh Stg 1 and now Mori Stg 1 cams and can say that the stock cams work very nicely with a street engine. In fact, the low and mids are stronger with the stockers, the more aggressive cams only getting the upper hand once the revs climb over 6K rpm. For example, at normal highway/freeway speeds the stockers pull harder (at least initially). Truth be told, come next valve adjustment, I will give serious though to putting the stockers back in (I don't rev the crap out of my bike, relying on mid-range torque to hustle me along, and the stockers are actually better in this regard)....
What kind of gains can be had with the pistons? Is it substantial? I have been itching to do this on my spare motor I have laying around.
Just the pistons and a rebore right? How noticeable/ how much more torque approx?
Just the pistons and a rebore right? How noticeable/ how much more torque approx?
Im interested in this as well. Apart from being higher comp are they lighter?
Std bore, have had them in for about 12 months.
My lightened flywheel came from Bill at H Power, he is a gentleman.
I have done lots to my motor and have spent way too much but I just love this bike.
I have never had my bike on a dyno, and it is difficult for me to tell what the pistons alone would do because I fitted them as a part of a total upgrade.
The bike has done approx 20,000Klms with the upgrades and is a delight to ride now.
P.S Got the big bore exhaust I was looking for .

One of the last things I want to do is get a big bore exhaust. Ha Ha Ha, famous last words!!!
My lightened flywheel came from Bill at H Power, he is a gentleman.
I have done lots to my motor and have spent way too much but I just love this bike.
I have never had my bike on a dyno, and it is difficult for me to tell what the pistons alone would do because I fitted them as a part of a total upgrade.
The bike has done approx 20,000Klms with the upgrades and is a delight to ride now.
P.S Got the big bore exhaust I was looking for .

One of the last things I want to do is get a big bore exhaust. Ha Ha Ha, famous last words!!!
Last edited by kenmoore; Apr 20, 2019 at 01:46 PM.
With that said, high comp bottom end is the basis of making the best of other mods especially top end such as cams, porting, bigger valves, velocity stacks etc...
I spoke to roger ditchfield recently about milling my heads as a cost effective way of increasing compression, although i dont think it will yield as high of compression as the pistons he told me it would net me roughly 2bhp, just from upping the compression alone and no other mods... it could another 1 or 2 with the high comp pistons...
With that said, high comp bottom end is the basis of making the best of other mods especially top end such as cams, porting, bigger valves, velocity stacks etc...
With that said, high comp bottom end is the basis of making the best of other mods especially top end such as cams, porting, bigger valves, velocity stacks etc...
are just talking about pistons.... otherwise that doesnt make sense.... compression is just your combustion chamberwhat your talking about is stronger con rods and doing work on your crank.
And your talking about milling heads and high compression pistons... i think thats pushing it... to much compression and low octane fuel don't mix
PS : Jscobey have a look at this http://www.webcamshafts.com/index_bl...le_search.html
I used to import these when i had my little race shop also had them in a build & stroked Busa good price/quality
Last edited by RoadManiac; Apr 21, 2014 at 10:51 AM.
thanks RoadManiac! thats exactley what i was looking for. the price doesnt seem to be too out there either. i found a line on a set of Mori Cams but they are about $1500. to rich for my blood. but the hardweld on stockers seems like a good option at half the price. not as extreme as STG 1 cams on the lifts but they should work nicley should i choose thise route.
does anyone know what i should expect to pay for the installation of my JE pistons? i can do the cams myself but i dont have the skills or the tools to do the pistons. what neighborhood would the price range be for installing the pistons? also possibly a bore and resleeve to to 98mm if my cylinders arnt in spec.
does anyone know what i should expect to pay for the installation of my JE pistons? i can do the cams myself but i dont have the skills or the tools to do the pistons. what neighborhood would the price range be for installing the pistons? also possibly a bore and resleeve to to 98mm if my cylinders arnt in spec.
If you do your cams your almost there already
pull the clutchcover so you can see both smaller cam chain sprockets... you can either hang them on something when you take the head off or mark everything with white paint... like the cam chain gears etc.....
when the cilinders are off and your ready to remove circlips put something in or over the bottom end hole so nothing gets in there then assemble as manual says and torque everything to spec...
Don't know if you know that you also need to degree your performance camshaft as those webcams has sprockets with slots so you can move the centerline (highest point) of the cam in relation to the crankshaft,
this moves the powerband around... but there are numbers that go with those cams but for some their just a baseline and some hardcore guys keep adjusting their cams till their satisfied wich seems quite alot of work everytime but each their own
some more info on degreeing a camshaft can be find on Web Cam Inc. - Performance and Racing Camshafts
and Crane Cams | Degreeing the Camshaft
wich makes more sense and if you read both you see that webcamshafts only wants you to buy their kit with small inner dial wich you dont need
also breaking in new cams needs special oil or normal oil with some kind of zink additive.
pull the clutchcover so you can see both smaller cam chain sprockets... you can either hang them on something when you take the head off or mark everything with white paint... like the cam chain gears etc.....
when the cilinders are off and your ready to remove circlips put something in or over the bottom end hole so nothing gets in there then assemble as manual says and torque everything to spec...
Don't know if you know that you also need to degree your performance camshaft as those webcams has sprockets with slots so you can move the centerline (highest point) of the cam in relation to the crankshaft,
this moves the powerband around... but there are numbers that go with those cams but for some their just a baseline and some hardcore guys keep adjusting their cams till their satisfied wich seems quite alot of work everytime but each their own
some more info on degreeing a camshaft can be find on Web Cam Inc. - Performance and Racing Camshafts
and Crane Cams | Degreeing the Camshaft
wich makes more sense and if you read both you see that webcamshafts only wants you to buy their kit with small inner dial wich you dont need
also breaking in new cams needs special oil or normal oil with some kind of zink additive.
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