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Horn upgrade time

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Old 12-15-2012, 07:51 AM
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Horn upgrade time

So you guys may be shocked but where I live, the horn gets a serious workout. So I have been running a fiam low tone freeway blaster. It died of use so have another one. BUT, was thinking I'd gain volume with a relay.

Anyone done this? The horn button connects power or ground to the circuit. I believe ground so one wire has to go right to the battery.

Does this produce noticably more sound, and does it create a lag.

Would love a response from someone who has done it.
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Old 12-15-2012, 04:44 PM
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Originally Posted by smokinjoe73
So you guys may be shocked but where I live, the horn gets a serious workout. So I have been running a fiam low tone freeway blaster. It died of use so have another one. BUT, was thinking I'd gain volume with a relay.

Anyone done this? The horn button connects power or ground to the circuit. I believe ground so one wire has to go right to the battery.

Does this produce noticably more sound, and does it create a lag.

Would love a response from someone who has done it.
If you run a 16 or larger gauge hot wire from the battery and use the oem wires to trigger the relay (I believe the horn circuit is completed when the ground is connected) you MAY get a bit louder honk. However, a relay is not required and by crimping together a 16 or even 18 gauge positive & negative Y-splitter and plugging them into the oem females and running the OE horn (or Fiamm disk Hi-tone) and a disk Fiamm low tone you WILL get more volume. They are mounted 180 degrees opposite and the flat brackets welded to each other with mounting holes centered (though welding is not mandatory it makes installation easier).
Attached Thumbnails Horn upgrade time-vtr-dual-horns-up.jpg   Horn upgrade time-vtr-dual-horns-front.jpg  
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Old 12-15-2012, 06:25 PM
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Skokie, that is a very well thought out bike. Headlight guard, driving lights, dual horns, fork brace, I think neoprene fork slider covers. Very nice set up. When the zombies come it will be you and me on the wild open roads.

So yeah, here is the problem. I have huge guage wires direct to the front with my eastern beaver headlight relays so tapped into that power. The problem is that the horn relay wants neg switched (when you ground it the power flows) but the hawk button only switches the +. So I just hooked up stock spade connectors to the fiam highway blaster for the moment and it is Mad loud.

Skokie I actually own one of the fiams you have on yours. It sat for many years and doesnt sound right now. The freeway blaster, uh, blasts it.
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Old 12-17-2012, 10:19 AM
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Originally Posted by smokinjoe73
Skokie, that is a very well thought out bike. Headlight guard, driving lights, dual horns, fork brace, I think neoprene fork slider covers. Very nice set up. When the zombies come it will be you and me on the wild open roads.

So yeah, here is the problem. I have huge guage wires direct to the front with my eastern beaver headlight relays so tapped into that power. The problem is that the horn relay wants neg switched (when you ground it the power flows) but the hawk button only switches the +. So I just hooked up stock spade connectors to the fiam highway blaster for the moment and it is Mad loud.

Skokie I actually own one of the fiams you have on yours. It sat for many years and doesnt sound right now. The freeway blaster, uh, blasts it.
If your happy with the db your horn install provides stay with it. However, I believe you can swith the wires to your relay for negative closed and I know there are negative close relays available. Whereas you may need a relay with the "blaster", a relay is not required with my set-up. I too have the EB headlight H4 harness (which replace my own because Jim's relays are Mitsubishi half-size units) but his wire gauges are not that large; only 16 gauge I believe. I had Jim add length to the yellow wire to the high beam so I could splice-in a Kisan P115W-H3 headlight modulator. I also replaced my charging circuit harness with 12 & 14 gauge wire including a Mosfet VR-R which feeds the battery direct. I have an auxiliary power harness that utilizes the OE green/red wire from the main fuse/relay to power other fused circuits and a secondary power harness with 12 & 14 gauge wire. The radar detector, cig lighter outlet (for GPS), driving lights (twin 50 w halogens), coaxial power outlet (for heated vest & air pump), heated grips, volt meter, license plate LED brake light, etc means I have a lot of relays & fuses!
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Old 12-17-2012, 10:47 AM
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Yeah, debating on the need for the relay & how to use it with the switch pos.

I am looking into my need for more circuits and a powerblock to distribute power. I only have one power outlet on the dash for gps or to put it on tender at night.

So your headlight modulator continuously strobes the headlight or is it switched?
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Old 12-18-2012, 08:39 AM
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Originally Posted by smokinjoe73
Yeah, debating on the need for the relay & how to use it with the switch pos.

see above

I am looking into my need for more circuits and a powerblock to distribute power. I only have one power outlet on the dash for gps or to put it on tender at night.

The following gives you an idea what's possible

VTR Auxiliary Electrical Power Wiring/Fuse Schedule

Circuit Source/Wire Color/Wire Gauge/Fuse Amps/Fuse Type/Notes

Voltage Regulator-Rectifier Alternator Yellow 14 NA NA OE wires <14 ga / Waterproof connector
Battery Power Positive VR-R Red 12 30 Reg Waterproof connector +/-
Battery Power Negative VR-R Black 12 NA NA
Battery Ground Crank Case (Rr) Black 8 NA NA
OE Main Fuse To Battery Battery Red 8 30 Reg
Auxiliary Power Buss Bar (APBB) Positive Battery Red 12 10 Mini Located under saddle / Unit with negative side
Auxiliary Power Buss Bar (APBB) Negative Battery Black 12 NA NA
Front Relayed Power Buss (FRPB) Conn. 9P Mini R located at right front fairing bracket Black/Red to Relay & Red to FRPP 16 to 18 5 Reg Located under steering head (SH) Serves all handlebar switches & VM
Front Negative Ground Buss (FNGB) Right Front Frame Black 10 NA NA "Located under SH / For Relays, Switches & VM"
Volt Meter Positive (VM) FRPB Red 18 None NA Polarized Quick Disconnect Plug (PQDP) Mounted on Left Fairing
Volt Meter Negative (VM) FNGB Black 18 NA NA Same PQDP
Coaxial Power Plug (Left Center) Positive Battery Black 16 10 Reg Ribbed Wire
Coaxial Power Plug (Left Center) Negative Battery Black 16 NA NA
Alarm Positive APBB Red 20 10 Reg
Alarm Negative APBB Black 20 NA NA
BA Head Light System (BAHLS) Positive Battery Orange to Red 12 15 Mini
BA Head Light System BAHLS) Negative Battery Black 12 NA NA
OE Head Light Positive Fuse Box Black/Red 18 10 Mini Switched positive for BAHLS relays
Driving Lights (DL) Positive Battery Blue 12 10 Mini 12 ga wire from Battery to relay & 14 ga wire from relay to 18 ga wire PQDP to each DL
Driving Lights (DL) Negative Left Front Frame Black 12 Y'd to 14 NA NA
Heated Grips Positive Main Fuse Block Red/White to White 14 to 20 5 or 7.5 Reg Was OE VR-R Positive To Main Fuse / PQDP
Heated Grips Negative FNGB Black 18 to 20 NA NA Same PQDP
Radar Detector Positive Instrument Cluster Red 18 3 Reg PQDP
Radar Detector Negative Instrument Cluster Black 18 NA NA Same PQDP
LED Auxiliary Brake Light Positive Brake Light Wire Green/White to Red 20 to 24 10 Mini Licence Plate Frame OE Fuse located in Fuse Box / Y-Bullet Connector
LED Auxiliary Tail Light Positive Tail Light Wire Green to Black 20 to 24 None NA Licence Plate Frame / Y-Bullet Connector
LED Auxiliary Brake Light Negative Was OE VR-R Ground Brown to White 14 to 24 NA NA Licence Plate Frame
Unused Ground Not Connected Green 12 NA NA Not Connected / Runs from Battery to SH
Relayed Auxiliary Brake Light (2-Pos & 1-Grd) Not Connected 2-red & 1-Black 18 5 Reg "Not Connected / Runs from Battery to ""tail"""
Unused Positive - Female Bullet Plug Ignition Switch Red/Black None None Tapped into loom by Fuse Box

So your headlight modulator continuously strobes the headlight or is it switched?
Infra red 'daylight sensor' switches off modulation, see below

Kisan P115W-H3 PathBlazer Headlight Modulator - P115WH3 - AdventureMotorcycleParts.com
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