Galfers and HH pads-wow
Thread Starter
Member
Squid
Joined: May 2014
Posts: 61
From: East Troy, Wi
Galfers and HH pads-wow
Just swapped out my 05's lines w/ galfers. Put on HH pads due to a track day coming up. Took me almost 2 hrs. to bleed the system. Normal? Seemed to take forever! Once done the first ride was great. I have an 08 VFR with abs brakes and they're awesome. Now the Hawk stops every bit as well.
RUNLEVELZERO #99
SuperBike
Joined: Jan 2007
Posts: 2,219
From: Skokie
Jim,
Did you use a "Mighty Vac" to bleed the lines and did you get a "race" set; i.e., 2 lines from MC? Pumping the front and rear lever/pedal to bleed runs the piston seals into the portion of the MC bore where crud and corrosion live, which can damage the seals. Vacuum or pressure bleeding (the latter over the MC reservoir) is the "proper method. And does at least the front MC banjo bolt also have a bleed port (nipple) in its end? In its absence and less easy to do, cracking the banjo bolt a 1/16 turn can aid evacuating air up high where it rises to and hides. Also, Teflon tape, non-hardening thread sealant (designed for hydraulic fluid) and/or grease around the caliper bleed nipple minimizes air infiltration during bleeding. Also, after bleeding, depress the brake lever/pedel about half travel and keep it that way over night with a zip tie or heavy rubber band to let residual air bubbles work their way out the reservoir.
As I texted you, I run SBS low friction pads on the rear. I use the rear brake to settle the rear under hard braking and adjust chassis attitude, and the last thing you want is the rear to lock up when its unloaded during braking and entering a turn. Low friction pads in the rear for me are more controllable than HH.
After labor day let me know your schedule.
Did you use a "Mighty Vac" to bleed the lines and did you get a "race" set; i.e., 2 lines from MC? Pumping the front and rear lever/pedal to bleed runs the piston seals into the portion of the MC bore where crud and corrosion live, which can damage the seals. Vacuum or pressure bleeding (the latter over the MC reservoir) is the "proper method. And does at least the front MC banjo bolt also have a bleed port (nipple) in its end? In its absence and less easy to do, cracking the banjo bolt a 1/16 turn can aid evacuating air up high where it rises to and hides. Also, Teflon tape, non-hardening thread sealant (designed for hydraulic fluid) and/or grease around the caliper bleed nipple minimizes air infiltration during bleeding. Also, after bleeding, depress the brake lever/pedel about half travel and keep it that way over night with a zip tie or heavy rubber band to let residual air bubbles work their way out the reservoir.
As I texted you, I run SBS low friction pads on the rear. I use the rear brake to settle the rear under hard braking and adjust chassis attitude, and the last thing you want is the rear to lock up when its unloaded during braking and entering a turn. Low friction pads in the rear for me are more controllable than HH.
After labor day let me know your schedule.
Just swapped out my 05's lines w/ galfers. Put on HH pads due to a track day coming up. Took me almost 2 hrs. to bleed the system. Normal? Seemed to take forever! Once done the first ride was great. I have an 08 VFR with abs brakes and they're awesome. Now the Hawk stops every bit as well.
Thread Starter
Member
Squid
Joined: May 2014
Posts: 61
From: East Troy, Wi
Bled them the old fashion way. Done it plenty of times on a race car. Didn't know what a poor method it would turn out to be for the Superhawk or any bike for that matter. With the pots retracted it just took too long with only pressure generated by the mc. I'll follow your lead next time, Brett! I have doube H for the rears but the stock pads look good so I will leave them alone. The fronts really felt good on the ride this morning.
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
thefauxnarchist
Modifications - Performance
5
Apr 27, 2011 07:02 AM
CNI Dawg
Modifications - Performance
5
Nov 14, 2005 05:05 AM
