Galfers and HH pads-wow
08-22-2014, 06:37 PM
#1
Member
Squid
Thread Starter
Join Date: May 2014
Location: East Troy, Wi
Posts: 61
Galfers and HH pads-wow
Just swapped out my 05's lines w/ galfers. Put on HH pads due to a track day coming up. Took me almost 2 hrs. to bleed the system. Normal? Seemed to take forever! Once done the first ride was great. I have an 08 VFR with abs brakes and they're awesome. Now the Hawk stops every bit as well.
08-22-2014, 08:24 PM
#3
Senior Member
SuperBike
Join Date: Jan 2007
Posts: 2,116
Jim,
Did you use a "Mighty Vac" to bleed the lines and did you get a "race" set; i.e., 2 lines from MC? Pumping the front and rear lever/pedal to bleed runs the piston seals into the portion of the MC bore where crud and corrosion live, which can damage the seals. Vacuum or pressure bleeding (the latter over the MC reservoir) is the "proper method. And does at least the front MC banjo bolt also have a bleed port (nipple) in its end? In its absence and less easy to do, cracking the banjo bolt a 1/16 turn can aid evacuating air up high where it rises to and hides. Also, Teflon tape, non-hardening thread sealant (designed for hydraulic fluid) and/or grease around the caliper bleed nipple minimizes air infiltration during bleeding. Also, after bleeding, depress the brake lever/pedel about half travel and keep it that way over night with a zip tie or heavy rubber band to let residual air bubbles work their way out the reservoir.
As I texted you, I run SBS low friction pads on the rear. I use the rear brake to settle the rear under hard braking and adjust chassis attitude, and the last thing you want is the rear to lock up when its unloaded during braking and entering a turn. Low friction pads in the rear for me are more controllable than HH.
After labor day let me know your schedule.
Did you use a "Mighty Vac" to bleed the lines and did you get a "race" set; i.e., 2 lines from MC? Pumping the front and rear lever/pedal to bleed runs the piston seals into the portion of the MC bore where crud and corrosion live, which can damage the seals. Vacuum or pressure bleeding (the latter over the MC reservoir) is the "proper method. And does at least the front MC banjo bolt also have a bleed port (nipple) in its end? In its absence and less easy to do, cracking the banjo bolt a 1/16 turn can aid evacuating air up high where it rises to and hides. Also, Teflon tape, non-hardening thread sealant (designed for hydraulic fluid) and/or grease around the caliper bleed nipple minimizes air infiltration during bleeding. Also, after bleeding, depress the brake lever/pedel about half travel and keep it that way over night with a zip tie or heavy rubber band to let residual air bubbles work their way out the reservoir.
As I texted you, I run SBS low friction pads on the rear. I use the rear brake to settle the rear under hard braking and adjust chassis attitude, and the last thing you want is the rear to lock up when its unloaded during braking and entering a turn. Low friction pads in the rear for me are more controllable than HH.
After labor day let me know your schedule.
Just swapped out my 05's lines w/ galfers. Put on HH pads due to a track day coming up. Took me almost 2 hrs. to bleed the system. Normal? Seemed to take forever! Once done the first ride was great. I have an 08 VFR with abs brakes and they're awesome. Now the Hawk stops every bit as well.
08-23-2014, 07:41 PM
#4
Member
Squid
Thread Starter
Join Date: May 2014
Location: East Troy, Wi
Posts: 61
Bled them the old fashion way. Done it plenty of times on a race car. Didn't know what a poor method it would turn out to be for the Superhawk or any bike for that matter. With the pots retracted it just took too long with only pressure generated by the mc. I'll follow your lead next time, Brett! I have doube H for the rears but the stock pads look good so I will leave them alone. The fronts really felt good on the ride this morning.
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