Frame sliders, rearsets
01-26-2007, 12:28 PM
#1
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Frame sliders, rearsets
I was wondering if anyone knew of any decent frame sliders or rearsets, that are priced affordably, for a 1998 Superhawk. I'm going to be racing mine this season, and while I knew the Superhawk wasn't designed with racing in mind, I didn't think it'd be this freakin hard to find racing parts :/
If there are none out there, it looks like I'll be fabricating my own. If it gets to that point and anybody here's interested in rearsets/slider mounts, I'll let you guys know.
If there are none out there, it looks like I'll be fabricating my own. If it gets to that point and anybody here's interested in rearsets/slider mounts, I'll let you guys know.
01-26-2007, 12:39 PM
#2
The Hypno-Toad
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I got my sliders off of e-bay. There are usually a few different ones on there. I bought the T-rex, but I think someone posted that they stopped selling on e-bay. As for rearsets I have seen a few, but all upwards of $400.
01-26-2007, 01:05 PM
#3
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The T-rex sliders are back on Ebay and I emailed them through one of the stand auctions and they just sent me a paypal invoice for them. I have the Harris rearsets and I think they are still available but not that cheap, Ebay also has rearsets from coerce or something like that, I'll see if I can find them.
01-27-2007, 01:19 PM
#5
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Are they very solid? I've always been wary of sliders that mount offset from their bolt-on point - the piece of steel can act as a lever and really do a number on the mounting bolt-hole.
01-28-2007, 09:01 AM
#6
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I don't think I could trust any with an offset mount. and then, somebody listed a brand new set of motovation direct mount sliders on ebay. seems he totaled his bike while the sliders were in transit to him. sad. using a Dremel and taking care you can make the fairing cuts look really nice.
01-31-2007, 06:03 PM
#7
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I have the offset frame sliders from ebay. They are very sturdy. They are only offset about an inch, and the plate is really thick. I bet they'd handle a crash. If you don't want the offset, just mount them straight in and cut your fairing.
02-13-2007, 07:05 PM
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Well, I haven't been able to find any rearsets below ~$500. If anyone's interested, this is a prototype of the ones I'm gonna machine:
If there's enough interest, I can make a few sets of these for just cost of materials and shop time. I'd also like to hear thoughts on the layout - the big U-section is because I don't really have any idea how far back/up I'll end up wanting my pegs :P
If there's enough interest, I can make a few sets of these for just cost of materials and shop time. I'd also like to hear thoughts on the layout - the big U-section is because I don't really have any idea how far back/up I'll end up wanting my pegs :P
02-13-2007, 07:17 PM
#9
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AC Cobra was working on a rear set that was measured off a set of Moriwaki race sets and was going to machine some out. I think at their last post (Stumpy was working on this too) AC was a few weeks away from having his first set done. This has been going on real recently so if you look back in the post history it should be easy to find.
Well, I looked for it and couldn't find it - had to search for it and I even knew what I was looking for
here's the link:
https://www.superhawkforum.com/forum...ight=rear+sets
Well, I looked for it and couldn't find it - had to search for it and I even knew what I was looking for
here's the link:https://www.superhawkforum.com/forum...ight=rear+sets
02-13-2007, 10:06 PM
#10
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More meat on those brackets that the peg attaches to will be required. Remember, some of us guys out there aren't lightweights, and I have been known to stand on my pegs every once in a while. They have to be able to stand up to that abuse without bending.
Otherwise they look cool!
Otherwise they look cool!
02-13-2007, 10:44 PM
#11
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Hawkrider, you're right, I just ran a stress simulation on that part and it failed miserably :P If I use certain alloys of steel it'll hold up, but I'm shootin for all one alloy of aluminum. *begins beefing it up*
edit: Heh, I'm really glad you brought that up, I can't seem to beef it up enough (and still have it look decent) to reliably support 400lb. I think I'll just go with the standard holes/pegs arrangement and measure some pegs down at University Honda and get an idea of where I'd want them - I'm betting 1.5" up, 1.5" back is a good starting spot. Perhaps anywhere from 1"/1" to 2.5"/2.5", in half-inch increments?
edit: Heh, I'm really glad you brought that up, I can't seem to beef it up enough (and still have it look decent) to reliably support 400lb. I think I'll just go with the standard holes/pegs arrangement and measure some pegs down at University Honda and get an idea of where I'd want them - I'm betting 1.5" up, 1.5" back is a good starting spot. Perhaps anywhere from 1"/1" to 2.5"/2.5", in half-inch increments?
02-15-2007, 03:29 PM
#13
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you may have thought about it already but you also need to attach the rear brake light switch and most aftermarket rearsets have ball bearings for smooth action but those look real nice good work
??:
02-15-2007, 10:44 PM
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hey Tophyr
do you have an email? It just hit me that you are from seattle...you wanna hook up some time? do you have msn messenger?
my email is brianforleahy at hotmail.com, be rad to hear from you...
oh and your rear sets look rad...what shop are you working at? or what shop do you have connections at?
do you have an email? It just hit me that you are from seattle...you wanna hook up some time? do you have msn messenger?
my email is brianforleahy at hotmail.com, be rad to hear from you...
oh and your rear sets look rad...what shop are you working at? or what shop do you have connections at?
02-16-2007, 09:46 AM
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The parts I like about it best wouldn't work on these though - namely, those ones aren't adjustable, and they use the passenger peg mount as the main rider's foot guard. I'll see if I can incorporate any of the design elements when I'm prototyping them, though
02-16-2007, 09:52 AM
#17
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hey Tophyr
do you have an email? It just hit me that you are from seattle...you wanna hook up some time? do you have msn messenger?
my email is brianforleahy at hotmail.com, be rad to hear from you...
oh and your rear sets look rad...what shop are you working at? or what shop do you have connections at?
do you have an email? It just hit me that you are from seattle...you wanna hook up some time? do you have msn messenger?
my email is brianforleahy at hotmail.com, be rad to hear from you...
oh and your rear sets look rad...what shop are you working at? or what shop do you have connections at?
I'm not sure where I'll be making them yet, actually. I had conned Seattle University's machine shop into helping me, but their CNC machine is down now so that's out of the question. There's a guy on another forum I'm on who does a lot of prototyping and this type of stuff, but he's up in Bellingham, so I dunno about that either.
02-16-2007, 12:02 PM
#18
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ive got a bunch of dimensions from a set or moriwaki rearseats if you want them, post your email and i can send you all the dims and pics i have
if you look up coerce rearsets on ebay for the vtr1000, that is what i was going to copy, but with dimension and adjustability from moriwaki
if you look up coerce rearsets on ebay for the vtr1000, that is what i was going to copy, but with dimension and adjustability from moriwaki
02-16-2007, 11:44 PM
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ive also got a solidworks and autcad drawing of a set or frame sliders that are a copy of the s&w units, they are the offset billet units with delrin extenders so you dont have to notch the fairing, but they are beefed up a little
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