Floating Rotor mod
07-08-2012, 08:25 AM
#1
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Squid
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Floating Rotor mod
Hey everyone,
Was looking into some full floating rotors. I read a while ago on a race page that you can cut the small washer that's between the button and rotor and will allow it to truly float. anyone ever try this? i have a 954 front end and rotors on. Thoughts?
Was looking into some full floating rotors. I read a while ago on a race page that you can cut the small washer that's between the button and rotor and will allow it to truly float. anyone ever try this? i have a 954 front end and rotors on. Thoughts?
07-14-2012, 09:54 AM
#3
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Squid
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Yes, you can flatten or cut the washer so the rotor is loose on the button. It's a little noisy but it allows for some give if you have slightly warped rotors thus no chatter from them under hard braking. I found a few ways to do it, but was wondering if anyone on the thread has actually "been there, done that". See this video
Last edited by dasweep; 07-14-2012 at 10:02 AM.
07-14-2012, 11:10 AM
#5
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interesting... didnt even think of that.
check out this video I found, this company makes proper full floating buttons and is a lot less hack and probably a lot less noisy then the first vid...
unless you dont mind sounding like a shopping cart cruisin downtown...
check out this video I found, this company makes proper full floating buttons and is a lot less hack and probably a lot less noisy then the first vid...
unless you dont mind sounding like a shopping cart cruisin downtown...
07-14-2012, 06:06 PM
#6
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interesting... didnt even think of that.
check out this video I found, this company makes proper full floating buttons and is a lot less hack and probably a lot less noisy then the first vid...
Corse Dynamics Brake Rotor Floater Button - YouTube
unless you dont mind sounding like a shopping cart cruisin downtown...
check out this video I found, this company makes proper full floating buttons and is a lot less hack and probably a lot less noisy then the first vid...
Corse Dynamics Brake Rotor Floater Button - YouTube
unless you dont mind sounding like a shopping cart cruisin downtown...
07-14-2012, 09:51 PM
#8
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The advantages are a little less rolling resistance and they also generate a little less heat.
The down side is they can be noisy & the buttons wear out and need to be replaced.
07-15-2012, 10:01 AM
#10
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That is kind of like asking how long tires will last. There is no set answer. It has to do to with how you ride and how hard you use the brakes.
It is just something you need to know if you run full floating rotors, they will wear out and need to be replaced from time to time.
It is just something you need to know if you run full floating rotors, they will wear out and need to be replaced from time to time.
07-15-2012, 02:55 PM
#12
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what is the benefit of the full floating.
To me it looks like the amount of slack in the full float would actually be a potential hazard, say you are upright doing 120mph and then lean into a highspeed sweeper and now the disc wants to stay upright while the wheel and the rest of the bike are leaned, this could push the pads/pistons out and eat up some fo the travel of the front master/lever before it actually engages and starts to do any braking... no?
I can't imagine the amount of free play in the "full" floater that was shown in the above utube vid doesn't pose a hazard for a loss of braking on first application....
To me it looks like the amount of slack in the full float would actually be a potential hazard, say you are upright doing 120mph and then lean into a highspeed sweeper and now the disc wants to stay upright while the wheel and the rest of the bike are leaned, this could push the pads/pistons out and eat up some fo the travel of the front master/lever before it actually engages and starts to do any braking... no?
I can't imagine the amount of free play in the "full" floater that was shown in the above utube vid doesn't pose a hazard for a loss of braking on first application....
07-15-2012, 03:30 PM
#14
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I think the advantage (for purists and racers) is they are quicker to the friction than fixed disks. Just speculation. I have been very pleased with the Pro Lites rotors that I bought from a member here. I had a mechanic tell me about cutting washers out to make the stockers float. I've never felt the need for more braking. I can stoppy from a hundred with my setup.
07-16-2012, 11:12 AM
#15
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what is the benefit of the full floating.
To me it looks like the amount of slack in the full float would actually be a potential hazard, say you are upright doing 120mph and then lean into a highspeed sweeper and now the disc wants to stay upright while the wheel and the rest of the bike are leaned, this could push the pads/pistons out and eat up some fo the travel of the front master/lever before it actually engages and starts to do any braking... no?
I can't imagine the amount of free play in the "full" floater that was shown in the above utube vid doesn't pose a hazard for a loss of braking on first application....
To me it looks like the amount of slack in the full float would actually be a potential hazard, say you are upright doing 120mph and then lean into a highspeed sweeper and now the disc wants to stay upright while the wheel and the rest of the bike are leaned, this could push the pads/pistons out and eat up some fo the travel of the front master/lever before it actually engages and starts to do any braking... no?
I can't imagine the amount of free play in the "full" floater that was shown in the above utube vid doesn't pose a hazard for a loss of braking on first application....
I have yet to feel a loss of braking from it throwing the calipers out, but like have been said over, and over, and over again... It's for track use, and track use only... There are no benefits for road use, only drawbacks... But no, there are no dangers at all involved... Well, perhaps by DIY removing the spring washers, that could end up beeing too loose...
On track, you are either on the power, or on the brake, or slowly releasing the brake and feeding in power... You are not ***** footing around "dabbing the brakes"... You either brake, or end up in a sandtrap...
If you are riding on the street, you have a street compound and street tires, don't even consider it... If you have a track dedicated bike, with slicks, and race compound pads... Then it's an option...
Last edited by Tweety; 07-16-2012 at 11:20 AM.
07-16-2012, 11:29 AM
#16
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This is a truer representation on how the buttons should move when fresh...
The buttons should move "sideways" as in the calipers clamping direction, but never, ever should the disc be able to move back and forth vs the carrier... Then you are in trouble...
The buttons should move "sideways" as in the calipers clamping direction, but never, ever should the disc be able to move back and forth vs the carrier... Then you are in trouble...
07-16-2012, 01:38 PM
#17
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It would seem to me that the stainless steel (or cast iron) rotor and buttons would wear less than the aluminum carrier; i.e., replacing the buttons and not also the carrier will help but not restore original tolerances. No?
07-16-2012, 02:09 PM
#18
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I have brembo iron rotors on mine. I honestly got sick of the "shopping cart in the parking lot" sound (nearly as annoying as a Ducati dry clutch IMO) and since I am commuting 90% of the miles I put on the hawk these days, was seeing no benefit. About 2 years ago I hunted down some thicker washers and swapped out the thinner washers for those. Bada-bing! Quieted it right down. They still can move, but are a hell of a lot quieter now. I kept the originals for if I turn the hawk in to a track-only bike (not likely for me).
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