Engine Rebuild after lowside
03-14-2008, 12:23 AM
#31
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Here's the trick. Take the spring compressor and throw it back in your tool box. Not gona work for you here. Get all your rings in place and set the piston into the bore till the ring stops it. You're just going to have to work them in one at a time. Compress the rings with your fingers as much as you can. Take a small flat blade screwdriver to push the ring into it's land the rest of the way. Most times, I'll set one edge of the piston into the bore and work the rest in from the ring gap. Once the ring is in it should slide down smoothly untill it stops at the next ring. Do the same till they are all in. It's not a quick process, but that's the best way to do it.
03-14-2008, 06:11 PM
#32
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I finally got them. I got a ring compressor that is a full circumference with a ratchet type. They both dropped right in. The type I had was a band that went around the piston and you squeezed it together with a special pair of pliers.
I tried massaging them in by hand (thats how I do Harleys) but they just didnt want to go.
Anyway they are in and hope fully I will get most of it together this weekend.
(beavis) he he he he I got post 69, he he he he(beavis)
I tried massaging them in by hand (thats how I do Harleys) but they just didnt want to go.
Anyway they are in and hope fully I will get most of it together this weekend.
(beavis) he he he he I got post 69, he he he he(beavis)
03-15-2008, 10:01 AM
#33
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I do believe a 50-50 mixture of moly-disulfide grease and engine oil is reccomended. And priming the oil pump is a good idea, especially in a machine with a two-circuit oil system. You can lose a new engine in the time it takes to get good oiling on first start-up.
03-15-2008, 09:10 PM
#34
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Got the crank/rods plasticgaged and then the rods torqued in today, started on the trans, and realized I didnt have the big seal for the output shaft, so its a couple day wait for that.
Did get the 1tail on, which cleans up the tail quite nicely.
Did get the 1tail on, which cleans up the tail quite nicely.
04-12-2008, 01:08 AM
#35
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Ok, I got the bottom half put together tonight. I started the valves also. I lapped a couple and they will be fine. Just trying to get the seals off though, are they glued on?? they just do not want to come off.
My valve springs are over the specs though, so I will probably get a set.
My valve springs are over the specs though, so I will probably get a set.
04-21-2008, 07:35 PM
#37
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Well, it getting together, I (ahemm) ~lost~
the special washer that goes between the gear and the ignition piece. I looked all over. Of course, after the new one gets in wed, I'll find it.Now I gotta find my instructions for the APE CCT's because I forgot what the adjustment is
ETA: found the thread,.............. "finger tight and 1/4 turn back.
Last edited by ride57; 04-21-2008 at 08:03 PM.
04-22-2008, 09:13 PM
#38
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I missed this thread the last time it came up.
I have one concern. I wouldn't have brought it up, except that it is a pretty big concern.
I noticed that the carbon ring is still present at the top of the cylinders. This is a concern because it could potentially cause interference when the pistons are removed and replaced. I don't have the specs with me, but the piston skirts have something like 0.004" clearance in the bore. This is a critical measurement.
Did you measure the bores and piston skirts? I am afraid they may have substanitally rubbed on the way out, and back in, increasing the skirt clearance. The carbon ring needs to be removed before the pistons come out.
I am not trying to be critical. I'm just bringing this to light, because it has the potential to be a big disappointment, if there is a problem. It may be that the carbon buildup is not as bad as it looks. Were the skirts scored after removal?
I have a really good, very clean set of stock pistons, with about 7K miles that I'll give you, if you think this may be a problem. You would just need to pay the shipping.
Let me know.
I have one concern. I wouldn't have brought it up, except that it is a pretty big concern.
I noticed that the carbon ring is still present at the top of the cylinders. This is a concern because it could potentially cause interference when the pistons are removed and replaced. I don't have the specs with me, but the piston skirts have something like 0.004" clearance in the bore. This is a critical measurement.
Did you measure the bores and piston skirts? I am afraid they may have substanitally rubbed on the way out, and back in, increasing the skirt clearance. The carbon ring needs to be removed before the pistons come out.
I am not trying to be critical. I'm just bringing this to light, because it has the potential to be a big disappointment, if there is a problem. It may be that the carbon buildup is not as bad as it looks. Were the skirts scored after removal?
I have a really good, very clean set of stock pistons, with about 7K miles that I'll give you, if you think this may be a problem. You would just need to pay the shipping.
Let me know.
04-23-2008, 05:35 PM
#39
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I put a set of JE pistons in. I carefully scraped the ring (no ridge reamer) and then crocus/emory cloth(800 and 1200) till I felt no ridge and nothing caught on the finger nail. I didnt want to go to deep. The motor only has 10k miles, so there was hardly a ring there. The majority was carbon that scraped off with a credit card
My problem with the rings were they were popping out between the compressor and block (with the first ring compressor I was using), before they were even entering the block. Once I got the new ring compressor, they went right in first time
My problem with the rings were they were popping out between the compressor and block (with the first ring compressor I was using), before they were even entering the block. Once I got the new ring compressor, they went right in first time
04-23-2008, 08:39 PM
#40
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Sounds good! As long as the piston skirt slipped in to the bore without interference, you should be good to go.
Nice job! Everything looks good and clean. The darkness at the top of the bore just caught my eye as I was looking.
Enjoy your new bike! Now that I've noticed your list of mods, you're a happy camper!
Nice job! Everything looks good and clean. The darkness at the top of the bore just caught my eye as I was looking.
Enjoy your new bike! Now that I've noticed your list of mods, you're a happy camper!
04-24-2008, 03:39 AM
#41
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04-27-2008, 06:17 PM
#44
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I got the motor in today. graesed all the swingarm/shock linkages. starting to get the small stuff bolted on
still waiting for a bearing and on Leo Vince for the left midpipe. Its been a couple months, I might just get some flex pipe from Napa
still waiting for a bearing and on Leo Vince for the left midpipe. Its been a couple months, I might just get some flex pipe from Napa
05-02-2008, 10:34 PM
#45
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CRAP, crap crap crap crap. now that I have the motor in I CANT TURN IT OVER BY HAND WTF (*&^&^*&
Turned over easy when I put the cams in and after, turned over easy when the clutch went in. buttoned it up and now it wont turn over by hand (yes its in neutral, and the plugs are out) The clutch slave cyl wont work either, I guess Im gonna have to bleed that. But that should not really matter if its in neutral (pounds head against wall) So, deal with it tomorrow.
My plan was to get it in and buttoned up, put oil in and just jumper the starter to spin it and get oil flowing.
So, I started getting the other stuff bolted on. Im gonna cancel the mounting set from Leo Vince, I got the old one pounded out to where it fits now. Just have to find some spacers. Still need the mid pipe.
Turned over easy when I put the cams in and after, turned over easy when the clutch went in. buttoned it up and now it wont turn over by hand (yes its in neutral, and the plugs are out) The clutch slave cyl wont work either, I guess Im gonna have to bleed that. But that should not really matter if its in neutral (pounds head against wall) So, deal with it tomorrow.
My plan was to get it in and buttoned up, put oil in and just jumper the starter to spin it and get oil flowing.
So, I started getting the other stuff bolted on. Im gonna cancel the mounting set from Leo Vince, I got the old one pounded out to where it fits now. Just have to find some spacers. Still need the mid pipe.
05-03-2008, 08:43 PM
#47
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Well, I have no idea why I couldnt turn it over. I took the clutch cover off, was poking, looking, got the scope out and scoped inside and behind things. Went over to the other side to try it, and it turned over quite easily. wtf.
Put the cover back on and tried it agian, turned over easily. Got the battery and jumped the starter and let it spin till the oil level went down (it takes like 4.8 qts on a rebuild and I put in 4 qts to the max line) put more oil in, spun it over some more till the oil level dropped, put more in and did the same till after I stopped it went back to almost the max line.
Got the clutch bled out, had to loosen the banjo at the master cyl and got some air from there, now seems to be fine.
Rebent the brackets for the exhaust and went to the hardware store to find suitable spacers and got that hooked up. I really need the ^&%$#%^ midpipe from Leo Vince.
Now is the fun time of getting all the wires/hoses back to where they go.
.Put the cover back on and tried it agian, turned over easily. Got the battery and jumped the starter and let it spin till the oil level went down (it takes like 4.8 qts on a rebuild and I put in 4 qts to the max line) put more oil in, spun it over some more till the oil level dropped, put more in and did the same till after I stopped it went back to almost the max line.
Got the clutch bled out, had to loosen the banjo at the master cyl and got some air from there, now seems to be fine.
Rebent the brackets for the exhaust and went to the hardware store to find suitable spacers and got that hooked up. I really need the ^&%$#%^ midpipe from Leo Vince.
Now is the fun time of getting all the wires/hoses back to where they go.
05-04-2008, 07:15 PM
#49
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ITS ALIVE 
It was sputtering along after a while of cranking. I think I fouled a plug because it seemed to be running on 1 cyl the last time I got it going Yes, to much happy control input. of course, Murpheys law says it will be the hardest plug to get to.
05-05-2008, 04:41 PM
#51
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Got home from work, pulled the choke and she fired right up! But, I cant take the choke off or she stops, (after 5 min running) if the choke is off, it feels like a vacume leak. Any Ideas??
I'm just running heat cycles (warm to touch, then off till its cold, repeat)
And the dash wont work except the clock
I'm just running heat cycles (warm to touch, then off till its cold, repeat)
And the dash wont work except the clock
05-05-2008, 06:24 PM
#52
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It sounds like you're close.
Did you just do the TPS adjustment? Maybe the timing is a bit advanced.
Try turning up the idle speed.
Possibly gunked idle jets?
Maybe it is a vacuum leak.
Get that sorted, then go ride it. Change the oil, then ride the **** out of it!
Did you just do the TPS adjustment? Maybe the timing is a bit advanced.
Try turning up the idle speed.
Possibly gunked idle jets?
Maybe it is a vacuum leak.
Get that sorted, then go ride it. Change the oil, then ride the **** out of it!
05-05-2008, 06:39 PM
#53
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Got it to idle, and replace the blown fuse. Im gonna throw the carb sync sticks on to(after I get the mid pipe). I checked all the vacuum hoses, they all seem ok (plugged on anyway)
I really need my midpipe. (I got the smashed one on now)
I really need my midpipe. (I got the smashed one on now)
05-17-2008, 09:57 PM
#54
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Its running, and I have been riding it around the 'hood while trying to get the clutch slippage issue fixed. The plates/discs are within specs as I checked them while they were out.
At first it needed to have the lines bled , but it was still slipping.
I replaced the slave cyl seals and it looked pretty gunky. cleaned up the piston/bore and it works now with no grabbing. Installeed and rebled but the clutch still slips.
Replaced the master cyl internals and rebled the system. Its nice and smooth, but the clutch still slips.
Any ideas?? Im at a loss here for what to check.
At first it needed to have the lines bled , but it was still slipping.
I replaced the slave cyl seals and it looked pretty gunky. cleaned up the piston/bore and it works now with no grabbing. Installeed and rebled but the clutch still slips.
Replaced the master cyl internals and rebled the system. Its nice and smooth, but the clutch still slips.
Any ideas?? Im at a loss here for what to check.
05-18-2008, 07:43 PM
#56
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Clutch plates installed correctly? Proper torque on the springs. IIRC the torque spec is really low.
How about the master cylinder? You went down on the left side, right? So are you using the same lever? If it's bent then the lever, and therefor the clutch, is not fully returning. If it's a new lever then check for gunk in the linkage to the master piston.
How about the master cylinder? You went down on the left side, right? So are you using the same lever? If it's bent then the lever, and therefor the clutch, is not fully returning. If it's a new lever then check for gunk in the linkage to the master piston.
05-19-2008, 05:12 PM
#57
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No grooves on the basket (I pulled the cover) all discs/plates in correctly. The judder spring is in correctly (I thought maybe I had that in wrong, but its by the book).
I replaced the clutch lever which the hand part had broken off. It seems to be fine, its something I can surely take a closer look at.
Springs were torqued to that low spec. The basket is all the way on and the oil pump was matched up.
Im going to put itt back together and see what she does.
I replaced the clutch lever which the hand part had broken off. It seems to be fine, its something I can surely take a closer look at.
Springs were torqued to that low spec. The basket is all the way on and the oil pump was matched up.
Im going to put itt back together and see what she does.
05-19-2008, 07:20 PM
#58
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w00t11!!1!
Its working!1!!11
I put it all back together, and I took the master cyl and slave cyl and shhok the crap out of them and then bled them. I couldnt really tell if I got any air out of the master cyl banjo, but I got a noticible bubble out of the slave cylinder. I also soaked the discs in oil. Last time I squirted them as I was putting them in. I really dont see how that could affect it, but I did it anyway.
I also greased the crap out of the clutch pusher thing (yea I forgot the name) that the clutch pushrod goes into and lifts the plate off of the disc pack. I had put in a new bearing and I was thinking, what if that had a small burr that wouldnt let the bearing seat back all the way? It felt sorta rough so I also emory clothed it.
anyway now I have to keep on bugging Leo Vince about where my midpipe is.
And the 748 is on the work stand. I have to pull at least the heads and maybe pistons. I have to adjust the valves and look to see if one of the rockers is flaking chrome. Also, (I bought this bike used) I pulled the airrunners and there were not any ^*&(&^$ air filters. I have ridden close to 3000 miles and the runners/airbox have sand an grit in them. I know, used bikes are "as is" but still. So I need to look at the cylinders to see if there is any damage.
sigh
Its working!1!!11
I put it all back together, and I took the master cyl and slave cyl and shhok the crap out of them and then bled them. I couldnt really tell if I got any air out of the master cyl banjo, but I got a noticible bubble out of the slave cylinder. I also soaked the discs in oil. Last time I squirted them as I was putting them in. I really dont see how that could affect it, but I did it anyway.
I also greased the crap out of the clutch pusher thing (yea I forgot the name) that the clutch pushrod goes into and lifts the plate off of the disc pack. I had put in a new bearing and I was thinking, what if that had a small burr that wouldnt let the bearing seat back all the way? It felt sorta rough so I also emory clothed it.
anyway now I have to keep on bugging Leo Vince about where my midpipe is.
And the 748 is on the work stand. I have to pull at least the heads and maybe pistons. I have to adjust the valves and look to see if one of the rockers is flaking chrome. Also, (I bought this bike used) I pulled the airrunners and there were not any ^*&(&^$ air filters. I have ridden close to 3000 miles and the runners/airbox have sand an grit in them. I know, used bikes are "as is" but still. So I need to look at the cylinders to see if there is any damage.
sigh
05-19-2008, 10:56 PM
#59
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Congratulations on your rebuild. It was fun reading about your progress, and your struggles. Good to see you succeed. One thing, did you think about replacing your rear shock while you had easy access to it? I know after market ones are expensive, but you were so close. Anyway, congratulations.
