E.Marquez

a Texas Summer can bring with it brutal temps, add in getting caught in traffic and no way out I see temps spike and stay at 227 for long periods.

I currently have clean inside and out stock radiators, new OEM thermostat, new OEM water pump, SAMCO Silicone radiator hoses and an 22lb rad cap that is holding pressure as designed, fresh 50/50 coolant mix.
I have never "over heated" and boiled over, but have had it at the edge a lot this year so will be making some changes.
GPI "racing" radiators use a different size temp sender then OEM, its a M14 x 1.5.|So I am using a Standard Motor Products TS288 Temp Sender/Sensor set at 195.8deg f. That is a two wire sender, vs the OEM 1 wire.. Easy fix, just make a ground wire for one terminal and run it to a near by ground point..

I will be adding a second threaded bung to the left rad for a second temp switch yet to be discovered, that will turn a second fan on at the left rad at about 210 deg f.

The idea being the second fan will only run in very hot coolant conditions like stop and go traffic in summer temps.

Radiators are on hand.
Second fan requested
TS288 sensor ordered

Researching second switch now, once I find what I want I will machine a threaded bung for it and three tabs to mount the second fan, then have a trusted radiator shop weld the parts to the left hand radiator.

smokinjoe73

smokinjoe73

Are you running a 14bs (oversized) battery? That helped me along these lines.

E.Marquez

No I use a Li battery

Stator Power is not an issue as this will only run the second fan with engine on...and there is more then enough watts available as I use all LED lights and no extras (heated gear) at the same time i will be running a second fan.

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Thats is the Napa catalog that gives data on the coolant switches.
Already ordered the TS288, but will be looking for a single terminal alternative as well as the second switch

finepooch

x2

E.Marquez

So it only took a year to find time....

Late last month I installed the "racing" radiators commonly found on Ebay.
Not a bolt on option for sure... The Fan took some mounting fabrication, the rad mounts took some fabrication,,, Stock hose lengths did not work, different size theomo switch was needed, and wiring changes as new switch was a two terminal, vice the single stock one.. Adding a ground wire was easy though.

Temps here in central Texas have been 10-5 or so last week,,,,, and coolant temps are getting up to 203 quickly, fan comes on and they stay there. till I get moving..where they drop to the sub 200's

The second fan idea took a hit when I figured out a stock fan would not fit on the left rad.....
But I ended up with a SPAL 4" fan left over from a build. And it fits the space perfectly.

Holding off on fabricating a mount and wiring till the new 4 row oil cooler and stainless steel braided oil lines are installed. If temps drop at all, i will not be installing the second fan

bigborer

What are the "ideal" and "highest acceptable" temperatures for this engine? I don't claim to know for sure..just personal observation and known data at when oil starts to break down.
My ideal temp is 190-195 deg f
The max I want to see is 200 deg F
in traffic, summer temps of 100 plus I was seeing 222 degf That is getting too close to boil over for my bike. Which is theoretically 248degf Sea level, 221deg f boiling point of water, plus coolant and a 18psi cap (1 psi gets you 2 deg f of additional boiling point of coolant generally. )

smokinjoe73

Hey Erik good to see you finally pulled it off. You should see lower temps with this setup. You got pics of the whole spal fan thing? Thought about that too.
I at one point for better cooling built a water misting system from an electric sprayer. It would spray water on the rad for extra cooling at critical times a la Porsche race cars. I wasn't happy with the results but it was a neat idea.

E.Marquez

Thankjs

I mocked up the fan with a spare set of radiators and left side faring I have. The 4" SPAL fits, where the OEM 6" fan did not.
The issue is... the SPAL needs a fan shroud to be fully effective, and a fan shroud would lessen air flow when fan is not running.

As Im not having overheating issues, only high temps in a few extreme situations I think I'll go without a shroud and accept the extra air it does me when at a stand still , and not significantly impact airflow when the bike is moving.
In any case, second fan is on hold till new oil cooler is up and running.

mikstr

I installed one of these (Had it coated with heat dispersant) on lower rad hose: https://www.ebay.com/itm/Modquad-Rad...tleDesc=0%7C0\

Been running it for a few years now (since my original rebuild with high comp pistons) and it works flawlessly.

Another thing that would help would be to run Engine Ice coolant.

cheers

E.Marquez

Considered it, but did not want the additional failure points (clamps and such) slight addition that it is I realize..
Of course pretty much rock proof which is really nice so you can mount it in direct air stream.
On this bike,,,I always figured it would absorb too much heat from the location it needed to be mounted at. As your still using yours and observed it helps..I guess not. Did you do other cooling system mods at the same time that might be the reason for lower observed temps?, or can you attribute the lower temps to just the aluminum inline splice cooler?

smokinjoe73

This stuff always comes up but for supplemental cooling & no failure point I use this on the oil filter. Good amount of surface area and good airflow past it so I believe it helps.

Based on design and location I can only see it helping or being neutral but it puts off quite a bit of heat.

E.Marquez

If you really want to get the max out of that, when you install it, use a slight smear of thermal heat sink paste. A $7 tube will give you enough for a life time of oil changes.
Id use one of these "heat sinks" if it was a full "cap" or cover ... as more of a protector for the oil filter that sits out in the open thinking it would be as you said, at worst a zero impact deal as far as heat retention / dissipation.