A chap had this link on the vtr1000.org site:
http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/Honda-VTR1000-...1%7C240%3A1318

 

Stop it Mikstr! I've been considering building a 2nd motor up but so far have been able to fight that urge, but this doesn't help
RC

 

Come to the dark side.... lol

 

I milled the slots on mine, because I have access to a machine shop at work. But the cam gears locate on the hub. The holes for the mounting screws can be elongated with a file or die grinder for $0. Saves some extra bucks for those cams you've been wanting.

 

The chap who installed my Yosh cams did just that but I thought I`d post the link in case anyone was interested.

 

RCVTR, Good advice!

Been looking at cams, pistons, port & polishing heads, air box mod with K&N filter & new funnels and rejetting, but gonna have to have a second bike bought 1st cuz can't stand the downtime...gotta ride to stay sane
RC

 

is there any worry of the gear slipping a bit?

 

Not sure there's enough pressure (pushing/pulling against valve springs) on the gears to cause slipping or the chains to jump a tooth, if that's what you mean, as long as you keep the chains are tensioned correctly....RC

 

They won't slip if you torque them to spec.

I recommend red loctite once you get the cams degreed. You can remove them with some heat, but there is no normal reason to remove them again.

The manual says to remove them to adjust the valves, but it is completely unnecessary.

 

RCVRT, how hard is it to degree in new cams?
RC

 

It's not real easy because of all the setup involved. You also need the correct equipment, namely a degree wheel and dial indicator. Most people don't have either of those. The degree wheels (or kits) usually come with instructions on the procedure.

 

I guess that depends on your perspective on what's "hard".

It does take some doing. You need a degree wheel and a dial indicator with magnetic base (or some way to rigidly mount it to the engine).

I took an old spark plug and removed the electrodes, then machined a socket head cap screw to fit tightly in the hole. I installed it in the head, then rotated the crank both directions until the piston contacted the end of the screw in the spark plug. Top center is the point halfway between. This gave me a precise location for "0" on the degree wheel.

Then I installed the cams and set the dial indicator to measure the top of a lifter bucket. I recorded the angle where the lifter had moved .040" on the rising and falling side of the cam. The lobe center is halfway between. Then I made a correction and measured again. It takes a few iterations to get it right.

Then I did the same for the other cam. Then found the top center point on the rear and repeated the whole exercise. It was a late night - probably took 4 hours once I was set up and going.

Labor of love.

 

Sounds like a good excuse to hang out in the garage to me
Thanks!
RC

 

Not when your shop is 10°F... like mine was this morning. I just had to get something done, needless to say I didn't spend any more time out there than necessary!

 

Danggit that's cold! If I lived up there I'd install an oil burning pot belly stove and burn KFC grease in it...keep you warm and your garage would always smell like lunch
RC

 

Yeah, I really want to do that too. I've got tons of used oil that I want to use in a waste oil heater. I did the math - those furnaces are at least $2500. I probably only use $25-50 per month in propane right now because I only run it when I'm out there. That means I spend $100-200 per year on shop heat. It's a 10-20 year payback to convert to a waste oil burner.

However, there is one missing variable: with a waste oil burner I could keep the shop at 50-55° all of the time. That would make it a lot more pleasant and probably keep my equipment in better condition too.

Man, we are WAY off topic now!!!