520 Conversion, please explain
#91
If nothing else, that beer belly resting on the fuel tank will make sure you always have enough weight forward and also enables a phenomenon known as "hanging on" vs the more traditional "hanging off".
#92
I don't know about that, but I do know that there are few things better than a warm fuel tank between your legs on a cold morning.
I agree with Tweety on the short wheelbase. I have my rear tire tucked right in close to the swingarm. I had to trim my hugger to make it fit.
Wheelie control is the same as throttle control.
And finally, I run 15/42 gearing, because I don't run out of RPM at the end of the front straight, but I'm close.
I agree with Tweety on the short wheelbase. I have my rear tire tucked right in close to the swingarm. I had to trim my hugger to make it fit.
Wheelie control is the same as throttle control.
And finally, I run 15/42 gearing, because I don't run out of RPM at the end of the front straight, but I'm close.
#93
I don't know about that, but I do know that there are few things better than a warm fuel tank between your legs on a cold morning.
I agree with Tweety on the short wheelbase. I have my rear tire tucked right in close to the swingarm. I had to trim my hugger to make it fit.
Wheelie control is the same as throttle control.
And finally, I run 15/42 gearing, because I don't run out of RPM at the end of the front straight, but I'm close.
I agree with Tweety on the short wheelbase. I have my rear tire tucked right in close to the swingarm. I had to trim my hugger to make it fit.
Wheelie control is the same as throttle control.
And finally, I run 15/42 gearing, because I don't run out of RPM at the end of the front straight, but I'm close.
I control the amount of front wheel lift with the amount of rear end slip... With a lighter flywheel, and generally more oopmh and shorter gearing getting the rear out or lofting the front isn't exactly a challenge... It's more challenging to not have both ends going haywire at the same time, that still makes me a tad nervous... I prefer one or the other... Especially now in spring with dusty roads...
Actually, now I had a brainfart... I'll go buy myself a good second hand 41 sprocket... I wanna find out if I can make redline in 6'th with my mods... (On track obviuosly, I'm not suicidal)
#94
Quick question. I had just ordered a chain and sprocket set (15/43) from sprocketcenter.com. They said the chain would come to length as needed but it is a 104 link chain. Will i need to cut a link off? Not sure if since changing ratio's that's going to effect chain length as well. Thanks for any help.
#95
Quick question. I had just ordered a chain and sprocket set (15/43) from sprocketcenter.com. They said the chain would come to length as needed but it is a 104 link chain. Will i need to cut a link off? Not sure if since changing ratio's that's going to effect chain length as well. Thanks for any help.
#98
It has not been mentioned yet, but if you are installing the chain yourself - one with a press-type master link, it is critical that you swage the end of the copper pins.
I've used a .250" ball bearing (from a bicycle hub) and measured the end of the pin, to make sure that it was at least .005" larger in diameter than before I swaged it. It worked fine, but even that doesn't make me real warm and fuzzy. I just purchased the chain tool with the special pin for swaging the master pin.
If in doubt, have it installed by a mechanic with the proper tool. If it is a master link with a retaining clip, that's another story. I like the permanent, swaged pins.
You don't want your chain wadding up on the countershaft. It can destroy your engine case.
I've used a .250" ball bearing (from a bicycle hub) and measured the end of the pin, to make sure that it was at least .005" larger in diameter than before I swaged it. It worked fine, but even that doesn't make me real warm and fuzzy. I just purchased the chain tool with the special pin for swaging the master pin.
If in doubt, have it installed by a mechanic with the proper tool. If it is a master link with a retaining clip, that's another story. I like the permanent, swaged pins.
You don't want your chain wadding up on the countershaft. It can destroy your engine case.
#99
+1.............yeah. i bought a chain and a couple sprockets and then discovered the chain manufacturer recommended no master link, so I ordered a motion pro cutter and rivit installer. 90 dolla make me holla, but like you said, not worth doing half-assed since the consequences could be ugly. It's a good idea to double check yourself visually and by measurements even when using the appropriate tool, and after riding it's doesn't hurt to check that it's still the same periodically.
#100
Reminds me of the CBR up on the table one time I was getting the beemer inspected. Guy had lost his red leather Honda jacket that he'd bungeed to the seat. Mech was pulling out red leather string from the front shaft in pretty good lengths. Jacket wasn't just gone... more like GONE! Along with various pricy seals, bearings, etc. No sudden stop tho, just started shifting funny, losing oil or something that clued him in.
#101
I know this is a old thread but no one said anything about this post says APPARATUS AND SUCK OFF YOUR FRIENDS IN THE SAME SENTENCE LOL
#102
Last edited by Firefly; 02-27-2011 at 04:48 PM.
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post