What's involved with painting/prepping the stock fairings?
09-16-2009, 06:45 PM
#1
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SuperSport
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Location: Las Vegas, NV
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What's involved with painting/prepping the stock fairings?
So my bike has a decent paint job, no not stock, however I am picky and want a nice paint job.
So what is involved with prepping the stock fairings? Can you use chemical paint stripper or do you have to sand it? And how far down do you have to sand it?
Also, what grit do you recommend?
So what is involved with prepping the stock fairings? Can you use chemical paint stripper or do you have to sand it? And how far down do you have to sand it?
Also, what grit do you recommend?
09-17-2009, 09:51 PM
#4
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SuperBike
Join Date: Dec 2005
Location: South Lake Tahoe, CA, USA
Posts: 1,689
The fairings have a lot of curvature everywhere, so it's probably best to stay away from an orbital sander. I'm preping my RC51 bodywork for paint now. The lower fairing survived, the rest is new, but I also painted my VTR bodywork.
Basically, you are looking at wet-sanding, until you're sick of it, then wet sanding a lot more. I started with 180 grit. You could start courser, but it tends to put deep scratches in that are hard to sand out. I'mnot trying to remove all of the paint, but I also don't want to just cake on more layers. I sanded all the clear off and a good portion of the base paint, using 180 grit.
Next is filling the rock chips and scratches with a light filler, called glaze coat. Then wet sand everything with a finer paper, say 280 grit. Sand until everything is blended and smooth.
Then use a good, sandable primer. A couple of thick coats (enough to wet the surface, sithout running). Then wet sand with 400. I usually sand again with 600. Not sure if that is necessary. At that point you should have a perfect, paintable surface.
For the tank, I strip it to bare metal, with a chemical stripper, then sand it with 180 and 280 grit. It's very important to use an etching primer on the tank. You can buy it in a rattle can at an automotive paint store. Wet sand it and apply the sandable primer, then prep the same as the bodywork.
It takes a while, but it's pretty satisfying in the end, if you are thorough in your preparation.
Basically, you are looking at wet-sanding, until you're sick of it, then wet sanding a lot more. I started with 180 grit. You could start courser, but it tends to put deep scratches in that are hard to sand out. I'mnot trying to remove all of the paint, but I also don't want to just cake on more layers. I sanded all the clear off and a good portion of the base paint, using 180 grit.
Next is filling the rock chips and scratches with a light filler, called glaze coat. Then wet sand everything with a finer paper, say 280 grit. Sand until everything is blended and smooth.
Then use a good, sandable primer. A couple of thick coats (enough to wet the surface, sithout running). Then wet sand with 400. I usually sand again with 600. Not sure if that is necessary. At that point you should have a perfect, paintable surface.
For the tank, I strip it to bare metal, with a chemical stripper, then sand it with 180 and 280 grit. It's very important to use an etching primer on the tank. You can buy it in a rattle can at an automotive paint store. Wet sand it and apply the sandable primer, then prep the same as the bodywork.
It takes a while, but it's pretty satisfying in the end, if you are thorough in your preparation.
09-19-2009, 09:05 PM
#6
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SuperBike
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Join Date: Jun 2007
Location: Los Angeles ish
Posts: 1,031
Here is a site that may drive you mad with options.
http://www.alsacorp.com/index.htm
http://www.alsacorp.com/index.htm
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