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VTR1000 with a difference

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Old Jan 12, 2010 | 01:53 PM
  #61  
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Considering your handiness with other tools... You could go the budget route and order 8 LFP cells from eBay and soldering them up for a pack...

I'm tempted myself... Should come to less than £50 for the cells... And bits of wire and shrinkwrap is cheap... And if you go this route, the pack could be made in several different ways to fit in very oddly spaced holes...
Old Jan 12, 2010 | 02:16 PM
  #62  
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Ok I'm all ears now! I like the idea of making my own Battery.
The existing Battery is fucked anyway so that sounds like it could be just
the ticket.
I ran a Trike once with 2 Batteries, one of them went **** up and took out
the other one with it.
Could the same thing happen with these things? Has anyone used one
long term?
Old Jan 12, 2010 | 03:06 PM
  #63  
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Tweet, Are these the type of thing you are thinking of?

http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/5PCS-New-A123-...item3358cf2bdd
Old Jan 12, 2010 | 03:19 PM
  #64  
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Originally Posted by Trikeopath
Tweet, Are these the type of thing you are thinking of?

http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/5PCS-New-A123-...item3358cf2bdd
Those are they, but I don't think 5 cells is enough, you'd need 8 IIRC.
Old Jan 12, 2010 | 03:36 PM
  #65  
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Back to updating pictures:-

After I had thrown all my toys out of the crib I decided to have a break from the VTR and help a guy out who had bought a total deathtrap of a Trike.
It was a welcome distraction. Here some before, during and after photos.

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Old Jan 12, 2010 | 03:45 PM
  #66  
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We got about 4 weeks work done then he ran out of funds so I was back on the VTR again.
Which was good because my head was busting with ideas again.

I had a set of yokes (trees) that I had started making for another bike partly made so I decided to try them on the VTR.

It took nearly a full afternoon drinking beer and drilled holes last summer to get them roughed out.
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Old Jan 12, 2010 | 04:50 PM
  #67  
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So many trikes running around AZ, and all deathtraps in my opinion..

That's one way to make a triple.. If you have the time I guess. So about how wide will you be making the front of the VTR? That looks over 10 inches in the pics, but it is always hard to gauge.
Old Jan 12, 2010 | 05:21 PM
  #68  
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Trikeopath, you are one talented guy! Chopper, Sport bike, who cares? You've got ***** and talent....keep the pics coming!
Old Jan 12, 2010 | 05:45 PM
  #69  
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Originally Posted by lazn
Those are they, but I don't think 5 cells is enough, you'd need 8 IIRC.
4 of them should work... Ie it makes a 12V pack, and 2,3Ah should be enough to crank the VTR on a good day... However I kind of doubt all days are good and with only 4 cells you will sooner or later run out of juice... Two sets of 4 in paralell gives you 4,6Ah... That should be enough to crank the VTR on a very, very bad day...
Old Jan 12, 2010 | 05:47 PM
  #70  
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Originally Posted by Trikeopath
We got about 4 weeks work done then he ran out of funds so I was back on the VTR again.
Which was good because my head was busting with ideas again.

I had a set of yokes (trees) that I had started making for another bike partly made so I decided to try them on the VTR.

It took nearly a full afternoon drinking beer and drilled holes last summer to get them roughed out.
Damn, you got patience... I would have called it a day and stopped drilling and kept drinking after one hour tops...
Old Jan 12, 2010 | 09:10 PM
  #71  
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CHEERS...nice work. thought it was original how you didn't take the frame down front and under engine like most choppers do. keep it up.
Old Jan 13, 2010 | 04:05 AM
  #72  
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It doesn't seen like a lot of work has gone in to them because of the months that have gone by between times when I have done bits on them.

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Old Jan 13, 2010 | 04:30 AM
  #73  
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This is the old VTR Steering stem with a 55mm slug knocked into it to extend it by 15mm and
have a thread for a Locking bolt tapped in.
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Old Jan 13, 2010 | 04:34 AM
  #74  
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I spent a few hours on Filing all the Drill marks out and I've now run a
Boring Head through them for the Stem.

I put the vernier in the bottom picture to give you an idea of scale.

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Old Jan 13, 2010 | 04:37 AM
  #75  
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I have cut a recess in the top yoke to hide the bearing lock nuts.
Old Jan 13, 2010 | 04:47 AM
  #76  
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This piece of Stainless will be the boss for holding the Stem in the bottom yoke and the 2 front wheel spacers.
You have to think ahead a bit when making small parts on the lathe and get the most out of the piece of metal you cut.
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Old Jan 13, 2010 | 04:50 AM
  #77  
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These are the wheel spacers before fitting.
I just need to find some suitable material for disc spacers.
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Old Jan 13, 2010 | 04:52 AM
  #78  
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The yokes have stainless internal fork clamps because I don't want slots in them for the pinch bolts.
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Old Jan 13, 2010 | 04:57 AM
  #79  
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I used a spindle from a Fireblade rear wheel that was in my toolbox and just happened to be the right length. Lucky or what?

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Old Jan 13, 2010 | 07:16 AM
  #80  
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those triples are pretty serious duty . At least you won't need to worry about them breaking. I can't believe the patience you have to build those that way.
Old Jan 13, 2010 | 09:34 AM
  #81  
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Awesome build. I will be following this one close. Great work.
Old Jan 13, 2010 | 11:12 AM
  #82  
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Not an engineer? My **** (that's "***" in American:-))....
Old Jan 13, 2010 | 11:52 AM
  #83  
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"The yokes have stainless internal fork clamps because I don't want slots in them for the pinch bolts"

Could you elaborate a bit on that ?
Awesome build btw, and even though you're not worried about the radiator, I am curious as to the inventive solution I'm sure you will come up with.......
I wonder if you could forego a radiator alltogether and use the ample amount of plumbing/frame tubing as a cooling device ?
It certainly looks like you'd have enough volume, and the frame gets hot anyway from contact with the engine at the mounts.

Kai Ju
Old Jan 13, 2010 | 11:54 AM
  #84  
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Originally Posted by Gilson
Not an engineer? My **** (that's "***" in American:-))....
Nope, could have been but it all went side ways.
I left school at 16 with a GCSE in maths. Never went back for the re-sits because I was offered a part time job in a small Bike shop and I thought
I would be a mechanic eventually.

Spent 4 years on the parts desk with the boss promising he would upgrade me to the workshop. When he eventually did, the mechanic who was
meant to train me had turned aloholic so most of the time I was winging it on haynes manuals.

After another 2 years of that, getting palmed off with boring insurance work for **** money and no bonus, a bloke in the pub offered me a £300 a
week job in his factory if I got a forklift licence. He even paid for the test for me. I was Shift manager for a good while but times have got hard so
the management are back on the shop floor now which means I'm back on the Machines.
Gives me more time to play with this stuff but alot less cash.

Last edited by Trikeopath; Jan 13, 2010 at 11:58 AM.
Old Jan 13, 2010 | 12:00 PM
  #85  
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Originally Posted by kai ju
"The yokes have stainless internal fork clamps because I don't want slots in them for the pinch bolts"

Could you elaborate a bit on that ?
Awesome build btw, and even though you're not worried about the radiator, I am curious as to the inventive solution I'm sure you will come up with.......
I wonder if you could forego a radiator alltogether and use the ample amount of plumbing/frame tubing as a cooling device ?
It certainly looks like you'd have enough volume, and the frame gets hot anyway from contact with the engine at the mounts.

Kai Ju
Some of the plumbing does go through the Frame. I'm working on that at the moment.
Old Jan 13, 2010 | 02:51 PM
  #86  
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Yeah, I'm curious what clamps the forks too.

BTW, on the rear fender and swinger, you will want to do fit-up with a new tire and also account for tire growth at speed. Give 2cm minimum for tire growth.
Old Jan 14, 2010 | 02:58 AM
  #87  
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Next up was the Air box.
I know I'll only be able to run a small tank so the Standard Airbox can't be used.
I have played around with a few ideas of how to do this but thought I'd try this way first.
The Carbs have 8 screws to hold the stock filter on so I used these to mount 2 plates and tacked in a bridge between them.
The rest I just made up as I went along.
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This is a peice of plate rolled to go around the ventury. The flat plate in front will end up the same for the other Carb.
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Old Jan 14, 2010 | 03:09 AM
  #88  
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After a lot of filing, the ends are fitted and the whole thing was welded up and cut to size.
I cut 2 more plates to sandwich the filter.
I'll have to stick it on a dyno and a gas tester before I make the finished fuel Tank to make sure it works ok. If I have any trouble I have a Webber carb off a car that I seem to be able to get anything to run on.
I also have an Eaton SuperCharger but it's way too early in the day to be thinking about that just yet. (might save that for it's next incarnation)

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Old Jan 14, 2010 | 03:39 PM
  #89  
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Old Jan 14, 2010 | 03:46 PM
  #90  
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Getting the VTR running well without the airbox has been a challenge for a few people..

I am sure it can be done, Hopefully you won't have issues.



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