suspension options / opinions please
#1
suspension options / opinions please
I've recently posted this on the UK VTR1000.org, and I'd welcome any input from your side of the pond.
Now I know this subject as probably been covered at length over the years but if you’ll bear with me I just want to run down the options available re improving the OE suspension.
Initially I want to concentrate on the front end but I realise the rear shock is equally important and I’ll deal with that once the front is improved.
I’ve had my VTR just over a week now and while I like the bike its stock suspension does leave a little to be desired, the forks appear under sprung and bottom out easily, the bike is difficult to turn and doesn’t want to hold a tight line, I’ve raised the rear end with a 5mm spacer on the damper mount, this as improved the turn in the trade off is a small (acceptable) loss of stability, I fiddled with the preload and damper settings this as improved things a bit but I don’t seem to be able get enough static sag, beef the preload up to lose the bottoming out and there’s not enough sag, set the sag at 30mm and it bottoms out, new springs required, the damper setting are no real help either increase compression (droop) and the rebound increases to much.
So what are the options ?
Retaining the std forks means replacement springs and oil , springs tend to be around £90 (Ohlins, Hyperpro, WP, Wirth, Race Tech) although I did find Hagon at £60 but I think I rather go with one of the others listed.
As anyone any preference ?
Next is damping, I know it’s possible to re-valve the forks, but I’ve read about DIY mod to the damper rod that basically involves grinding off a ‘step’ on the tapered end, this I believe allows the increase of the compression damping while limiting the increase in rebound, as anyone tried this ? or is the best option to re-valve.
The other option is to replace the front end, am I right in thinking a ‘96/7 Fireblade front end is a relatively easy fit? are there any other Honda front ends that are a straight forward fit?
I’m guessing I’d need forks, yokes, wheel spindle /spacers, and bars, is this all I’d need or am I missing something?
Once I’ve gone to all the trouble bolting on a ‘Blade front end is it going to give me a worthwhile improvement or am I going to have change the oil wt or springs to really make it worth while?
I’m sure many forum users have considered / implemented the above options and while I realise bike riding /handling is very subjective some informed opinions would be most welcome.
Now I know this subject as probably been covered at length over the years but if you’ll bear with me I just want to run down the options available re improving the OE suspension.
Initially I want to concentrate on the front end but I realise the rear shock is equally important and I’ll deal with that once the front is improved.
I’ve had my VTR just over a week now and while I like the bike its stock suspension does leave a little to be desired, the forks appear under sprung and bottom out easily, the bike is difficult to turn and doesn’t want to hold a tight line, I’ve raised the rear end with a 5mm spacer on the damper mount, this as improved the turn in the trade off is a small (acceptable) loss of stability, I fiddled with the preload and damper settings this as improved things a bit but I don’t seem to be able get enough static sag, beef the preload up to lose the bottoming out and there’s not enough sag, set the sag at 30mm and it bottoms out, new springs required, the damper setting are no real help either increase compression (droop) and the rebound increases to much.
So what are the options ?
Retaining the std forks means replacement springs and oil , springs tend to be around £90 (Ohlins, Hyperpro, WP, Wirth, Race Tech) although I did find Hagon at £60 but I think I rather go with one of the others listed.
As anyone any preference ?
Next is damping, I know it’s possible to re-valve the forks, but I’ve read about DIY mod to the damper rod that basically involves grinding off a ‘step’ on the tapered end, this I believe allows the increase of the compression damping while limiting the increase in rebound, as anyone tried this ? or is the best option to re-valve.
The other option is to replace the front end, am I right in thinking a ‘96/7 Fireblade front end is a relatively easy fit? are there any other Honda front ends that are a straight forward fit?
I’m guessing I’d need forks, yokes, wheel spindle /spacers, and bars, is this all I’d need or am I missing something?
Once I’ve gone to all the trouble bolting on a ‘Blade front end is it going to give me a worthwhile improvement or am I going to have change the oil wt or springs to really make it worth while?
I’m sure many forum users have considered / implemented the above options and while I realise bike riding /handling is very subjective some informed opinions would be most welcome.
Last edited by budd; 06-14-2010 at 02:26 PM.
#2
Don't grind the rebound valve. If you decide to revalve in the future then it will play havoc with the suspension tech. Your best bet is to go straight to a revalve/respring.
Yes, the 'Blade front end is a direct swap, but you'll still have to get it resprung and revalved. The only thing this swap buys you is adjustable compression damping and slightly stiffer forks and triples. If you're going to do a front end swap, go all the way and opt for the RC51 (SP1 or SP2) or 04-07 Blade forks.
Yes, the 'Blade front end is a direct swap, but you'll still have to get it resprung and revalved. The only thing this swap buys you is adjustable compression damping and slightly stiffer forks and triples. If you're going to do a front end swap, go all the way and opt for the RC51 (SP1 or SP2) or 04-07 Blade forks.
#3
thanks for that, it's easy to assume from various posts that early Blade kit is a total solution to the front end issues, this is obviously not the case and there's more to it than it first appears.
At the moment I'm looking for a simple budget concious method of improving things, I'm not after 'race bike' performance just an inprovement in the problem areas mainly to give me more confidence in it.
Are the gains of a simple spring/oil change alone worth while? or is the re-valving element essential?
At the moment I'm looking for a simple budget concious method of improving things, I'm not after 'race bike' performance just an inprovement in the problem areas mainly to give me more confidence in it.
Are the gains of a simple spring/oil change alone worth while? or is the re-valving element essential?
#4
Springs, valves and oil work together... When they aren't in balance you get unpredictable results... If you go for a stock rebuild, do all of it...
Almost all swaps you do require you to change the internals of the forks since the VTR is a tad heavier than most never bikes, and since most never bikes also come with a spring that is a compromise for different rider weight...
So far the most "bolt-on" solution is the CBR 1000RR forks... The springweight and matching valving is good enough for most riders around 170-200 pounds without change... And it solves the weak point of brakes in one fell swoop...
The other CBR forks are cheaper, but needs work...
Almost all swaps you do require you to change the internals of the forks since the VTR is a tad heavier than most never bikes, and since most never bikes also come with a spring that is a compromise for different rider weight...
So far the most "bolt-on" solution is the CBR 1000RR forks... The springweight and matching valving is good enough for most riders around 170-200 pounds without change... And it solves the weak point of brakes in one fell swoop...
The other CBR forks are cheaper, but needs work...
#5
Springs, valves and oil work together... When they aren't in balance you get unpredictable results... If you go for a stock rebuild, do all of it...
Almost all swaps you do require you to change the internals of the forks since the VTR is a tad heavier than most never bikes, and since most never bikes also come with a spring that is a compromise for different rider weight...
So far the most "bolt-on" solution is the CBR 1000RR forks... The springweight and matching valving is good enough for most riders around 170-200 pounds without change... And it solves the weak point of brakes in one fell swoop...
The other CBR forks are cheaper, but needs work...
Almost all swaps you do require you to change the internals of the forks since the VTR is a tad heavier than most never bikes, and since most never bikes also come with a spring that is a compromise for different rider weight...
So far the most "bolt-on" solution is the CBR 1000RR forks... The springweight and matching valving is good enough for most riders around 170-200 pounds without change... And it solves the weak point of brakes in one fell swoop...
The other CBR forks are cheaper, but needs work...
Over here in the UK VTR forks seem to be on a par price wise with the earlier (96-7) Blade forks so I if I could get hold of a set then sell the VTR items to fund the mods required or I could get lucking and get hold of some 1000RR forks at decent money..
Last edited by budd; 06-15-2010 at 05:35 AM.
#6
If you're not looking for race bike performance, as you said, I would just stick with the respring and revalve of the stock forks. There's a lot of investment in the fork swap, some clever modification that is not for the mechanically challenged, and ultimately a bit of compromise in the bar position (it won't be like stock). With worked forks you can go extremely fast, so growth of your riding skills should not be a concern. I accelled to the Advanced group with my trackday organization with stock forks.
#7
If you're not looking for race bike performance, as you said, I would just stick with the respring and revalve of the stock forks. There's a lot of investment in the fork swap, some clever modification that is not for the mechanically challenged, and ultimately a bit of compromise in the bar position (it won't be like stock). With worked forks you can go extremely fast, so growth of your riding skills should not be a concern. I accelled to the Advanced group with my trackday organization with stock forks.
Once I feel more comfortable on the bike I’ll be fitting Dragon Corsa race rubber to go with the improved suspension and booking a track day.
With all this in mind I think springs and a re-valve could be the way forward and would be adequate for my needs, but as I said I’m in no rush to do anything apart for take on board the knowledgeable opinions and suggestions found on the forum and of course get some more miles under my belt.
#10
Having just installed springs and Racetech Gold Valves appropriate for my weight I can say its a substantial improvement. I'd say it was worth the money especially if you're planing on doing the upgrade now so you can keep riding this year. I suspect you can get on of your local forum members who have done the upgrade to give you a hand.
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