NOrrTH

I seemed to recall a thread here (searched, can't find) where someone explained a step by step procedure for doing a proper paint job, degrease, wet sand, etc.

Also, does anyone know anything about plastic welding? Searching the net comes up with a myriad of industrial and complex processes.

Erion_squid

With my limited experience in regards to plastic, OEM, and painting; here is what i can offer you:

Most cracks and dings can be patched back together...on the non visible side using Epoxy or Amazing GOOP! i say this because nobody can see the wound in the back of the fairing and you can use simple BONDO filler on the visible side. No joke but if it is just part of the faring and not the whole thing, just take it into your dealer...it wasnt too pricy and it came with a crack and split warantee...you can usually get quite a discount off the final price if you bring it to them smooth...cracks filled...and sanded down to a beautiful grunge with at least 500 grit sand paper found at any auto parts store.

Like i said, dont have too much experience with the paint part. Hopefully someone else here can guide you the rest of the way.

Hope this helps.

jtgraha2

Steps involved in doing a 2 part, base/clear paint job.

In order:

-use an oil removement solvent on all plastic (i use Nason-"prep solve")
-Fill in all cracks/holes with epoxy/filler.
-Rough sand all filler down with 100grit
-sand all plastic w/ 220
-sand all plastic with 320
-use "prep solve" again just before shooting.
-shoot a primer down.
-aftering drying go back with 400 grit. You might notice small blemishes you missed and you can go back and use "spot putty" on it. If they require filler then repeat last 5 steps.
-hang the plastic back up and wipe all surfaces down with "prep solve"
-spray your sealer paint on.
-spray your color/base
-allow base to get tacky and then start spraying your clear. This is where experience really shows. Clear runs easily and can be "dry sprayed"
-allow to dry for 24 hrs.
-wet sand with 1500-2000 grit (in this step you can actually sand out some runs that have occured. be careful not to sand through the clear.)
-buff w/ medium compound polish.
-buff w/fine compound polish.
-wait a month
-wax and admire the paint job

hope this helps.
Jon

3D02

What Jon wrote above pretty much nails it. Can never emphasize prep work enough. If you are painting small areas I would look at the Color-Rite site for their products. Another tip I would add is if you are painting in a garage wet the floor before spraying as to keep the dust down.



Karl

Erion_squid

Why wait a month....?

superbling

To allow it to "gas out". Common advice when applying decals too. If not you can get bubbles later on (BTDT).

On the original question, I've done both. I've painted two bikes (getting a real gun, paint system, etc) and also letting a pro to do it. I'd strongly suggest just paying a pro. I spent more in $$$ AND time (especially time) plus lots of elbow grease/sweating while only getting OK results as opposed to great results from the pro. I was proud of my work but it just didn't measure up. Just as with lots of things, you need lot's of practice to get good at it.

Most folks find it's still cheaper to pony up for an expensive new OEM fairing than getting the damaged one repaired and then repainted. Plus the repaint won't match perfectly, especially Honda red, thus painters typically want to shoot the entire bike if color match is of importance.

jtgraha2

good info bling.... I been down that road many times...alot of sweat and tears. If you do still want to paint it yourself the best tip I can give you is to find a painter that will talk with you. He'll give you countless tips (wetting floor, etc.) that make an OK paint job a great one in the end.