Coming soon: SP2 cluster
Senior Member
SuperSport
Joined: Jun 2005
Posts: 524
BTW if you wonder how I got that information... I'm now the proud owner of about a dozen temp sensors or so, several of them from various years of VTR's... I don't know if it's age or if it's that way from the factory, but the older one's are all over the scale, the newer are fairly uniform...
The reason for this is that I have tried to figure out a solution to my own dilemma with the temp sensor of the CBR 1000RR which has an entirely different scale...
The reason for this is that I have tried to figure out a solution to my own dilemma with the temp sensor of the CBR 1000RR which has an entirely different scale...
Tweety, Mikstr,
When I used the '07 CBR600RR meter on my F3 engine I had the same problem that you experienced with the temp difference. I ended up using the CBR600RR sending unit after machining it to fit the F3 thermostat housing. I only used the wires that supply info to the gauge and ignored the one that supplies ECT info for the FI system since the F3 still has carbs.
Come to think of it, same as I did on the VTR with the CBR929 gauges.
Hope this helps both of you.
Escape Reality
SuperSport
Joined: Jun 2006
Posts: 612
From: KANATA, KANADA
Okay I spoke too soon...I having the same tach issues. I double checked the connection and the yellow/Green is correctly connected but nothing. Everything else works. I used the FI light for the kickstand. Signal works, lights works, temp gauge works, although inaccurate. HELP?
Specs:
1999 VTR - (Canadian)
2001 RC gauge (US)
Specs:
1999 VTR - (Canadian)
2001 RC gauge (US)
Out of my mind, back in 5
MotoGP
Joined: Nov 2006
Posts: 6,109
From: Skurup, Sweden
Well... Since a couple of people with "the same" tach problems actually had different problems, could you describe your's a bit more detailed?
What works, what doesn't? Did it at one time work, and then stopped working? Have you checked fuses (sign of short, bad solder/isolation) have you double/triple/quadruple checked the green (ground) and brown/black wires?
What works, what doesn't? Did it at one time work, and then stopped working? Have you checked fuses (sign of short, bad solder/isolation) have you double/triple/quadruple checked the green (ground) and brown/black wires?
Escape Reality
SuperSport
Joined: Jun 2006
Posts: 612
From: KANATA, KANADA
Well... Since a couple of people with "the same" tach problems actually had different problems, could you describe your's a bit more detailed?
What works, what doesn't? Did it at one time work, and then stopped working? Have you checked fuses (sign of short, bad solder/isolation) have you double/triple/quadruple checked the green (ground) and brown/black wires?
What works, what doesn't? Did it at one time work, and then stopped working? Have you checked fuses (sign of short, bad solder/isolation) have you double/triple/quadruple checked the green (ground) and brown/black wires?
So far what works:
Signal indicator
Lights - high beam indicator
Oil warning indicator
Temperature warning indicator
Temperature reading - although completely 'off' - poor sensor I sure
Neutral indicator
FI light - wired to kickstand
low gas indicator
Doesn't work:
Tach
Unsure:
Speedometer as I havn't took it out yet but it did read zero at start up. The bike is apart so I can't run it at the moment.
Ground wire..Green and Green/Black has continuity to Ground. All wires are soldered and heat shrunk. It never worked and I have checked the fuses. On power up the tachometer sweeps and everything reads. I've run continuity test on the Yellow/Green wire to the ICM and its fine. I am stumped.
Here are some photos of the wiring:
[IMG]
Uploaded with ImageShack.us[/IMG]
Thanks for your help
Lou
Out of my mind, back in 5
MotoGP
Joined: Nov 2006
Posts: 6,109
From: Skurup, Sweden
Actually, the coolant temp on the display is a bit odd on the RC... If the coolant is below 95F it just blinks "---" on the display, not really a warning, just letting you know it's out of the range the display can accurately measure and display... Running the engine for a short while should get it up high enough to display temps pretty quick...
Also the sweep on the tacho has nothing to do with anything, it's not a test or anything... You could hook up +12v and ground and it would still do that... It's just Honda's version of bling-bling...
Basic checks, power to the gauge cluster... Black/Brown should have battery voltage as soon as the key is in the "ON" position (but not in "OFF"), Red/Green should always have battery voltage, Green and Green/Black should have continuity to ground, just as yours have...
To check speedo, measure voltage between Pink/Green and Green/Black while slowly turning the rear wheel (I'm guessing your bike is on a stand?) Should pulse 5V-0V-5V-0V....
To test the tacho signal, you need a Peak Hold adapter, or a multimeter in the $150 plus range with that capacity... Then you test against ground, Green/Black...
Other than that it's back to the basics, trace the wires, verify that they are not shorted, damaged whatever...
Also the sweep on the tacho has nothing to do with anything, it's not a test or anything... You could hook up +12v and ground and it would still do that... It's just Honda's version of bling-bling...
Basic checks, power to the gauge cluster... Black/Brown should have battery voltage as soon as the key is in the "ON" position (but not in "OFF"), Red/Green should always have battery voltage, Green and Green/Black should have continuity to ground, just as yours have...
To check speedo, measure voltage between Pink/Green and Green/Black while slowly turning the rear wheel (I'm guessing your bike is on a stand?) Should pulse 5V-0V-5V-0V....
To test the tacho signal, you need a Peak Hold adapter, or a multimeter in the $150 plus range with that capacity... Then you test against ground, Green/Black...
Other than that it's back to the basics, trace the wires, verify that they are not shorted, damaged whatever...
Escape Reality
SuperSport
Joined: Jun 2006
Posts: 612
From: KANATA, KANADA
Thanks Tweety
I rechecked everything and the grounds and power are good as you suggested. The continuity between the Plug to the ICM is good. My speedo works so everything work as it should be but no tach. My last thing is to check the voltage from the ICM per manual:
if value is more than 10.5 replace tach
if value is less than 10.5 then replace the ICM
I will do shortly and report back but when I had the old tach it worked so I am thinking it might be the ICM issue.
I rechecked everything and the grounds and power are good as you suggested. The continuity between the Plug to the ICM is good. My speedo works so everything work as it should be but no tach. My last thing is to check the voltage from the ICM per manual:
if value is more than 10.5 replace tach
if value is less than 10.5 then replace the ICM
I will do shortly and report back but when I had the old tach it worked so I am thinking it might be the ICM issue.
Out of my mind, back in 5
MotoGP
Joined: Nov 2006
Posts: 6,109
From: Skurup, Sweden
Thanks Tweety
I rechecked everything and the grounds and power are good as you suggested. The continuity between the Plug to the ICM is good. My speedo works so everything work as it should be but no tach. My last thing is to check the voltage from the ICM per manual:
if value is more than 10.5 replace tach
if value is less than 10.5 then replace the ICM
I will do shortly and report back but when I had the old tach it worked so I am thinking it might be the ICM issue.
I rechecked everything and the grounds and power are good as you suggested. The continuity between the Plug to the ICM is good. My speedo works so everything work as it should be but no tach. My last thing is to check the voltage from the ICM per manual:
if value is more than 10.5 replace tach
if value is less than 10.5 then replace the ICM
I will do shortly and report back but when I had the old tach it worked so I am thinking it might be the ICM issue.
Escape Reality
SuperSport
Joined: Jun 2006
Posts: 612
From: KANATA, KANADA
Thread Starter
Senior Member
MotoGP
Joined: Apr 2005
Posts: 5,631
From: Montreal
Trying to get mine to work is on my "to do" list for this winter. I will look at the possible faulty connections and replace my R/R with a MOSFET unit. Hopefully that will cure it. If not, oh well, no tach (I ran all last summer without one anyhow).
cheers
cheers
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