Cheap cyclops light mod
I'm always looking for cheap but good solutions when working on my bike projects and I thought you guys might appreciate this one:
I purchased this little LED array off ebay for $2.99 (Free shipping):

It comes with a couple of adapters one of which fits the VTR's 'cyclops' eye receptacle. It also comes with double sided tape and will attach perfectly on the front edge of the reflector allowing you to tuck the extra cable behind it.
It's quite bright too and does not touch the lens:

Not bad for $3
I purchased this little LED array off ebay for $2.99 (Free shipping):

It comes with a couple of adapters one of which fits the VTR's 'cyclops' eye receptacle. It also comes with double sided tape and will attach perfectly on the front edge of the reflector allowing you to tuck the extra cable behind it.
It's quite bright too and does not touch the lens:

Not bad for $3
I just got the new 3W LED lamps from them for my CBR1100xx and I like them, they are not as bright as the 3W luxeon based bulbs but still plenty bright.
I had to do this as well- and it is SWEET!- in less than 5 minutes this thing plugged in and was doing it's lighting thing. very pleased- and honestly for $3 it doesn't matter if it burns out in 1 month- alteast i had a month of awesomeness- and that is worth it to me.
If by 'defeat' you mean that it makes them blink quickly then yes it does. However I have found that regular automotive electronic flasher units can be used on our bikes to fix this problem. A few $ at Autozone.
Last edited by dehning; Oct 7, 2011 at 08:41 PM.
[QUOTE=dehning;315770]If by 'defeat' you mean that it makes them blink quickly then yes it does. However I have found that regular automotive electronic flasher units can be used on our bikes to fix this problem. A few $ at Autozone.[/QUOTE
Thanks for answering my question!
Apologies for my
Thanks for answering my question!
Apologies for my
What is the point of the "cyclops" light on this bike? Does this mod add usable light to see by? Never been happy with the headlight though a decent quality bulb and careful re-aiming has helped a little.
You need the eastern beaver headlight relay direct wire hookup. It runs power through monster cables directly to the headlight & controls it with relays. Increases voltage and brightness by 35-45%. HUGE improvement. Motorcycle H4 Relay Kits, cheap Worldwide Shipping
You need the eastern beaver headlight relay direct wire hookup. It runs power through monster cables directly to the headlight & controls it with relays. Increases voltage and brightness by 35-45%. HUGE improvement. Motorcycle H4 Relay Kits, cheap Worldwide Shipping
Sheesh, that relay kit is $55! For $50 you could get an H4 HID High/Lowbeam kit from DDM tuning that will give you drastically better light output. (I have them in my CBR1100xx & my VFR800)
...and that's a dual headlight kit intended for a car so you will end up with a second one you could sell to a buddy and split the price in half!
...and that's a dual headlight kit intended for a car so you will end up with a second one you could sell to a buddy and split the price in half!
Sheesh, that relay kit is $55! For $50 you could get an H4 HID High/Lowbeam kit from DDM tuning that will give you drastically better light output. (I have them in my CBR1100xx & my VFR800)
...and that's a dual headlight kit intended for a car so you will end up with a second one you could sell to a buddy and split the price in half!
...and that's a dual headlight kit intended for a car so you will end up with a second one you could sell to a buddy and split the price in half!
Someone mentioned that they make H4 HID bulbs now where the filament burns in the same place as stock, but I haven't seen that confirmed.
You do get brighter light, it's just less controlled. IMO a relay is actually better light unless you get the HID kit with projectors (which are designed for the way that the HID bulb burns, and so the light is controlled).
Been over and over on this forum, but while those bulbs technically work in stock housing, the reflectors are not designed for them. Light ouput is scattered, may cause interference with oncoming traffic and in general is less safe.
Someone mentioned that they make H4 HID bulbs now where the filament burns in the same place as stock, but I haven't seen that confirmed.
You do get brighter light, it's just less controlled. IMO a relay is actually better light unless you get the HID kit with projectors (which are designed for the way that the HID bulb burns, and so the light is controlled).
Someone mentioned that they make H4 HID bulbs now where the filament burns in the same place as stock, but I haven't seen that confirmed.
You do get brighter light, it's just less controlled. IMO a relay is actually better light unless you get the HID kit with projectors (which are designed for the way that the HID bulb burns, and so the light is controlled).
So hopefully someone knows the answer.
I'm surprised that people have had problems with HID lamps in the SH reflector. The H4 standard not only defines what the base looks like, but also where the source of the light should be located. As I said, I have them in my Blackbird, my VFR800, my Hayabusa and more recently, in my wife's Civic and they work great. I did make some minor aiming adjustments on some of them but that was all.
On the relays; I don't think you need a relay with the HID kit, they actually draw less current once they are lit. That being said,I actually use $15 DEI 528T Pulse Timers on all my installs so that the HIDs only come on after the bike is running saving on startup cycles on the transformer. The pulse timer actually pulls its main power directly from the battery and passes it through an internal relay so I guess it's technically performing the same function.
On the relays; I don't think you need a relay with the HID kit, they actually draw less current once they are lit. That being said,I actually use $15 DEI 528T Pulse Timers on all my installs so that the HIDs only come on after the bike is running saving on startup cycles on the transformer. The pulse timer actually pulls its main power directly from the battery and passes it through an internal relay so I guess it's technically performing the same function.



