bi-xenon lamp fitment?
06-19-2011, 05:40 PM
#1
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bi-xenon lamp fitment?
is fitment a word?
i got a cheap ebay bi-xenon hid kit. did dry run outside light housing and it worked flawlessly. unfortunately i could not fit the new bulb. the fairing stay is too close to the back of the bulb.
does anyone have experience with this? is there a trick to it?
i got a cheap ebay bi-xenon hid kit. did dry run outside light housing and it worked flawlessly. unfortunately i could not fit the new bulb. the fairing stay is too close to the back of the bulb.
does anyone have experience with this? is there a trick to it?
06-19-2011, 06:07 PM
#2
the boss
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going to have to take the body off.its the only way to safely put it in.
becarefull with this light,for its not designed for the light out put,the light wil be broken up.could blind other people coming towards you.
becarefull with this light,for its not designed for the light out put,the light wil be broken up.could blind other people coming towards you.
06-19-2011, 07:26 PM
#4
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06-19-2011, 08:05 PM
#5
the boss
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its the only way to get it in,the upper stay is in the way.the oem bulb will go in and out no problem.
you wont even have to take the body all the way off.just got to unbolt and move the body forward a inch or so.
you wont even have to take the body all the way off.just got to unbolt and move the body forward a inch or so.
06-20-2011, 05:46 PM
#7
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maybe i will check into this fairing removal, movement.
i got a bi-xenon 4300k. it seems to work well.
will the fairing fit back in? is the back of the bi-xenon bulb too long? will it bump into the fairing stay?
i got a bi-xenon 4300k. it seems to work well.
will the fairing fit back in? is the back of the bi-xenon bulb too long? will it bump into the fairing stay?
Last edited by finepooch; 06-20-2011 at 05:56 PM.
06-20-2011, 07:55 PM
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06-20-2011, 08:34 PM
#11
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Just throwing it out there... do a little research on this site on the effectiveness of putting an HID bulb in a stock housing... may not be the direction that you want to go.
06-21-2011, 09:04 AM
#12
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Take pics of where you place your ballast. I was staring at my cieling thinking about this last night. Fairings come off very easily as described above. Getting them on alone is a tiny bit more challenging. I have not yet seen a shawk with the lower plastic clips in. on my bike the stay and the hole on the fairings are not even close to being aligned. I would like to see a properly connected one.
06-21-2011, 09:37 AM
#13
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Take pics of where you place your ballast. I was staring at my cieling thinking about this last night. Fairings come off very easily as described above. Getting them on alone is a tiny bit more challenging. I have not yet seen a shawk with the lower plastic clips in. on my bike the stay and the hole on the fairings are not even close to being aligned. I would like to see a properly connected one.
If they are not in the lower part of the fairing can flap around at speed.
06-21-2011, 03:35 PM
#14
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I stuck my ballast in the fake intake and mounted it with screws and silicone. I figure the extra air should help keep everything cool. If your to lazy to pop the fairing off don't install a bi-xenon because you obviously aren't willing to do it correctly and safely.
06-21-2011, 04:53 PM
#15
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your arm twisting motivated me to take a second look. fairing removal was even easier than you describe. i am embarassed that i stated "too much work" above. see, i listen.
i undid the mirrors, bolts, and rivets. i only had to slide the fairing ahead a couple inches to make the bulb fit. i did not even have to unplug any wires. piece of cake.
i temporarily fit the bulb and wired it up. it worked very well. i hit the high beam switch and up the beam went. high, low. high, low. high, low. there is a very distinct difference between the low and high. i did that a few times and i was happy. i disconnected the temp wiring and buttoned the fairing back up.
hopefully my neighbour will help me finish the job when he gets home from out of town. i'll get him to splice in extentions so the hot lead will reach the battery. he's fussy so i hope he'll arrange the ballast, relay, and the wiring. i briefly looked inside the fairing and saw a few potential spaces to hide everything.
i undid the mirrors, bolts, and rivets. i only had to slide the fairing ahead a couple inches to make the bulb fit. i did not even have to unplug any wires. piece of cake.
i temporarily fit the bulb and wired it up. it worked very well. i hit the high beam switch and up the beam went. high, low. high, low. high, low. there is a very distinct difference between the low and high. i did that a few times and i was happy. i disconnected the temp wiring and buttoned the fairing back up.
hopefully my neighbour will help me finish the job when he gets home from out of town. i'll get him to splice in extentions so the hot lead will reach the battery. he's fussy so i hope he'll arrange the ballast, relay, and the wiring. i briefly looked inside the fairing and saw a few potential spaces to hide everything.
06-23-2011, 09:20 AM
#16
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HEllo all, like others have said..... just changing the light will not get you the lighting you want. the look maybe but for oncoming traffic it is all broken up. GO the liitle bit more expensive route and buy the whole kit. MAny have used this site and if you call or e mail them what you need it for they know exactly what you need..... www.theretrofitsource.com i ordered mine a while back and other have used this set up and you will get the look you want with the correct lighting without (in most cases) blinding the other drivers!
Last edited by lucas_chanel; 06-23-2011 at 09:22 AM. Reason: spelling
06-26-2011, 04:58 PM
#18
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it is done. it works like a charm. i have got to say that i am impressed with how easy the install is and how well the kit works.
i mounted the ballast and relay in the fake ram air tunnelon the right side. everything fit nicely, and snug enough that it should not rattle around.
i mounted the ballast and relay in the fake ram air tunnelon the right side. everything fit nicely, and snug enough that it should not rattle around.
06-27-2011, 08:12 PM
#20
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it is done. it works like a charm. i have got to say that i am impressed with how easy the install is and how well the kit works.
i mounted the ballast and relay in the fake ram air tunnelon the right side. everything fit nicely, and snug enough that it should not rattle around.
i mounted the ballast and relay in the fake ram air tunnelon the right side. everything fit nicely, and snug enough that it should not rattle around.
-f
06-29-2011, 05:07 PM
#23
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i may re-aim if cars flash me at night. there may be no need to because the light source is supposed to be designed to be in the same position as the filament in the halogens. i know some of you are intent that the beam pattern is thrown off with hids in a halogen assembly but it was not with my rc51, and may not be on the hawk. one other blurring(pun) factor is that i lowered the bike for my lady, and that may have thrown the aim off. so, we'll never know for sure.
06-29-2011, 05:29 PM
#24
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--fred
06-29-2011, 05:34 PM
#25
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by beast, i meant the bike... specifically the motor. that 'fake ram-air' on the right that you're blocking is not a fake ram-air. it is part of the cooling system. it helps route air onto the right radiator. i'd expect your bike will run hotter at speed because of this. just an observation. i still really like your ultra-bright light. and you gotta put the ballast somewhere.
--fred
--fred
07-02-2011, 03:25 PM
#28
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last night i was on the lonesome tch(trans canada highway) #2 here in nb. pitch back and nothing else on the road. high beam was only lighting up the tops of the trees along side the highway. low beam lit the road better. it is a divided highway so no oncoming traffic, but the cars i passed did not flash me. i have lowered the light and i plan to check it again tonight.
i watched the temp gauge during my 700km run yesterday. the needle was always in the colder section of the gauge. the air temp got up to 24c, and i was doing sustained high speed, i mean 200kmh+, for long distances. the only test i did not come across is stop and go traffic, which is when temps get out of hand. i did take a look a that tunnel. it doesn't bring air into the rad, it goes above the rad. the air for the rad comes from inside the fairing.
by beast, i meant the bike... specifically the motor. that 'fake ram-air' on the right that you're blocking is not a fake ram-air. it is part of the cooling system. it helps route air onto the right radiator. i'd expect your bike will run hotter at speed because of this. just an observation. i still really like your ultra-bright light. and you gotta put the ballast somewhere.
--fred
--fred
07-02-2011, 10:08 PM
#30
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last night i was on the lonesome tch(trans canada highway) #2 here in nb. pitch back and nothing else on the road. high beam was only lighting up the tops of the trees along side the highway. low beam lit the road better. it is a divided highway so no oncoming traffic, but the cars i passed did not flash me. i have lowered the light and i plan to check it again tonight.
<snip> the only test i did not come across is stop and go traffic, which is when temps get out of hand. i did take a look a that tunnel. it doesn't bring air into the rad, it goes above the rad. the air for the rad comes from inside the fairing.
<snip> the only test i did not come across is stop and go traffic, which is when temps get out of hand. i did take a look a that tunnel. it doesn't bring air into the rad, it goes above the rad. the air for the rad comes from inside the fairing.
stop and go traffic in hot weather will give any VTR fan a workout.
--fred
