Presenting... mikstr's VTR
#1
Presenting... mikstr's VTR
Here you go folks, not much left to do on the old girl now.
Sorry for the quality of the pics but it was the best I could do today...
April 2011_VTR :: P1140067.jpg picture by vtr_mick - Photobucket
April 2011_VTR :: P1140073.jpg picture by vtr_mick - Photobucket
April 2011_VTR :: P1140070.jpg picture by vtr_mick - Photobucket
April 2011_VTR :: P1140068.jpg picture by vtr_mick - Photobucket
Here is the list of mods:
Engine
- JE 0.5 mm OS pistons (11.5:1) with moly skirt coating and ceramic top coat
- Carillo H-beam forged rods
- DLC coated piston pins
- DLC coated intake valves
- Yoshimura Stg 1 cams
- Ported and decked heads (0.015”)
- Balanced crankshaft
- Lightened and balanced flywheel
- Factory Pro detent arm and shift star
- Ceramic transmission bearings (where possible)
- JDM CNC-machined shift lever, fit with needle bearings
- Samco silicone hoses with heat dispersant coated in-line cooler
- Engine Ice coolant
- DJ kit
- TPS adjusted to 430 ohms
- BMC street air filter
- Flo-Commander
- Manual CCTs
- HPower-replica billet long intake runners
- Akrapovic full race exhaust with Ti cans; ceramic coating
- CBR600RR stick coils
- PAIR system removed
- Modded EX400 oil cooler (twice the area)
- Barnett clutch springs
Suspension
- Braced swingarm (900RR), powdercoated black
- 1997 CBR900RR (45mm) forks (with Gold Valve kit and valving specs from Roger Ditchfield)
- Ohlins fork springs (0.90 kg/mm)
- Ontario Moto Tech triple clamps (all aluminum; 5mm less offset), had them anodized red
- Ohlins two-way adjustable rear shock with hydraulic preload adjustment
- 6 mm shock shim
Chassis and bodywork
- reinforced steering head and braces
- Mototeck undertail
- LED taillight with integrated signals
- Lockhart Phillips front turn signals
- Eastern Beaver headlight relay kit
- Hella 100/55W headlight bulb
- Removed front “air duct” panels, fit screens at front
- Removed radiator screens
- SPAL cooling fan with manual switch
- Custom modified Street Triple Helibars
- Carbon fibre front fender (Triumph Street Triple)
- Airtech hugger (for CBR900RR)
- Shindy Daytona steering damper
- RC51 instrument cluster with carbon fibre cover
- Speedohealer
- Racecon Products quick-release red anodized fuel cap
- Powerbronze “double bubble” type iridium windscreen (cool blue)
- HRC-replica rear brake MC reservoir
- Maviryk Li-ion battery
- Cameleon automatic chain oiler
- Ducworks bar-end mirrors
- Mirror block-off plates
- Front parking light removed, gutted, drilled lens
- Powdercoated rearsets
- HRC 1/6 turn throttle tube
- Numerous Ti and Al bolts, nuts, screws,….
- Sargent seat
- Carbon engine case protectors
- No cut frame sliders
- Two Brothers aluminum exhaust hangers
- Protek slash-cut footpegs
- Kickstand switch removed
- aluminum quick-release gas tank hinge pin
- All ***** tapered roller steering bearings
- VFR800 regulator
- Durbahn carbon/fibreglass rad airscoops
Running gear
- PVM cast magnesium wheels (powdercoated red; rear is 6” wide)
- ceramic hybrid wheel bearings
- 520 pitch chain with Al rear sprocket (15/43 gearing)
- Red anodized Al angled tire valves
- EBC 320mm race rotors
- Braketech caliper relocation brackets
- F4i front calipers with Vesrah RJL pads
- F4i rear caliper
- Speedbleeders on all calipers
- Custom machined rear rotor (save 1 lb)
- Braided lines all around
- OEM Ducati (Monster 1100) Brembo MCs, Pazzo levers
- Vista-Cruise
- Driven D3 grips
- Michelin Power Pure tires (190/55 rear)
There really isn't too much left to do without either spending serious $$$$ or compromising its all-round goodness.
Dyno numbers (on new engine) are 121.8 hp and 76.6 lb-ft. Those will surely rise slightly as the engine breaks in. As for the weight, I haven't yet weighed it but I weigh parts as I remove or replace them and the wet weight should be right at 400 lbs (based on listed stock wet weight of about 480 lbs).
thanks for looking and for all those who helped me over the years
P.S. Don't take this to mean I am parting with it, it is with me to stay....
Sorry for the quality of the pics but it was the best I could do today...
April 2011_VTR :: P1140067.jpg picture by vtr_mick - Photobucket
April 2011_VTR :: P1140073.jpg picture by vtr_mick - Photobucket
April 2011_VTR :: P1140070.jpg picture by vtr_mick - Photobucket
April 2011_VTR :: P1140068.jpg picture by vtr_mick - Photobucket
Here is the list of mods:
Engine
- JE 0.5 mm OS pistons (11.5:1) with moly skirt coating and ceramic top coat
- Carillo H-beam forged rods
- DLC coated piston pins
- DLC coated intake valves
- Yoshimura Stg 1 cams
- Ported and decked heads (0.015”)
- Balanced crankshaft
- Lightened and balanced flywheel
- Factory Pro detent arm and shift star
- Ceramic transmission bearings (where possible)
- JDM CNC-machined shift lever, fit with needle bearings
- Samco silicone hoses with heat dispersant coated in-line cooler
- Engine Ice coolant
- DJ kit
- TPS adjusted to 430 ohms
- BMC street air filter
- Flo-Commander
- Manual CCTs
- HPower-replica billet long intake runners
- Akrapovic full race exhaust with Ti cans; ceramic coating
- CBR600RR stick coils
- PAIR system removed
- Modded EX400 oil cooler (twice the area)
- Barnett clutch springs
Suspension
- Braced swingarm (900RR), powdercoated black
- 1997 CBR900RR (45mm) forks (with Gold Valve kit and valving specs from Roger Ditchfield)
- Ohlins fork springs (0.90 kg/mm)
- Ontario Moto Tech triple clamps (all aluminum; 5mm less offset), had them anodized red
- Ohlins two-way adjustable rear shock with hydraulic preload adjustment
- 6 mm shock shim
Chassis and bodywork
- reinforced steering head and braces
- Mototeck undertail
- LED taillight with integrated signals
- Lockhart Phillips front turn signals
- Eastern Beaver headlight relay kit
- Hella 100/55W headlight bulb
- Removed front “air duct” panels, fit screens at front
- Removed radiator screens
- SPAL cooling fan with manual switch
- Custom modified Street Triple Helibars
- Carbon fibre front fender (Triumph Street Triple)
- Airtech hugger (for CBR900RR)
- Shindy Daytona steering damper
- RC51 instrument cluster with carbon fibre cover
- Speedohealer
- Racecon Products quick-release red anodized fuel cap
- Powerbronze “double bubble” type iridium windscreen (cool blue)
- HRC-replica rear brake MC reservoir
- Maviryk Li-ion battery
- Cameleon automatic chain oiler
- Ducworks bar-end mirrors
- Mirror block-off plates
- Front parking light removed, gutted, drilled lens
- Powdercoated rearsets
- HRC 1/6 turn throttle tube
- Numerous Ti and Al bolts, nuts, screws,….
- Sargent seat
- Carbon engine case protectors
- No cut frame sliders
- Two Brothers aluminum exhaust hangers
- Protek slash-cut footpegs
- Kickstand switch removed
- aluminum quick-release gas tank hinge pin
- All ***** tapered roller steering bearings
- VFR800 regulator
- Durbahn carbon/fibreglass rad airscoops
Running gear
- PVM cast magnesium wheels (powdercoated red; rear is 6” wide)
- ceramic hybrid wheel bearings
- 520 pitch chain with Al rear sprocket (15/43 gearing)
- Red anodized Al angled tire valves
- EBC 320mm race rotors
- Braketech caliper relocation brackets
- F4i front calipers with Vesrah RJL pads
- F4i rear caliper
- Speedbleeders on all calipers
- Custom machined rear rotor (save 1 lb)
- Braided lines all around
- OEM Ducati (Monster 1100) Brembo MCs, Pazzo levers
- Vista-Cruise
- Driven D3 grips
- Michelin Power Pure tires (190/55 rear)
There really isn't too much left to do without either spending serious $$$$ or compromising its all-round goodness.
Dyno numbers (on new engine) are 121.8 hp and 76.6 lb-ft. Those will surely rise slightly as the engine breaks in. As for the weight, I haven't yet weighed it but I weigh parts as I remove or replace them and the wet weight should be right at 400 lbs (based on listed stock wet weight of about 480 lbs).
thanks for looking and for all those who helped me over the years
P.S. Don't take this to mean I am parting with it, it is with me to stay....
Last edited by mikstr; 04-07-2011 at 01:33 PM.
#12
that looks great buddy, nice work and impressive list of goodies.
couple things, where did you get the carbon engine covers from?
and why adjust the tps to 430 ohms instead of 500 like recommended?
and any videos of this thing running? i bet it sounds fantastic
the only thing id change, and this is personal preference, is the exhaust to a higher mounted unit, other than that i like the color scheme and the way its put together. great work man, being french canadian i expected it to be pink with lime green rims and tassles everywhere, lol.
oh last thing, do you have any issues with your bar end mirrors moving around when you get up to speed? mine fold in a little when i get going quicker, wonder if you have that issue aswell
couple things, where did you get the carbon engine covers from?
and why adjust the tps to 430 ohms instead of 500 like recommended?
and any videos of this thing running? i bet it sounds fantastic
the only thing id change, and this is personal preference, is the exhaust to a higher mounted unit, other than that i like the color scheme and the way its put together. great work man, being french canadian i expected it to be pink with lime green rims and tassles everywhere, lol.
oh last thing, do you have any issues with your bar end mirrors moving around when you get up to speed? mine fold in a little when i get going quicker, wonder if you have that issue aswell
#15
Update:
Bike runs very, very well (and getting better as it breaks in). The only caveat relates to the bike`s ability to handle rapid throttle input at low speeds. While not severe, it does tend to balk slightly, a situation I don`t really care for as the one thing I have really grown to like is the bike`s snappy response. My initial thinking was that the (lighter) DJ slide springs were opening too quickly so I set about experimenting to see if I could correct it. My initial thinking was to work with the lift holes to slow down the slide lifting (without affecting their equilibrium height in steady state operation, ie. cruising). When I opened up the carbs, I noticed that the slides had a third lift hole (as per the DJ installation instructions). I replaced them with a set of slides (thanks Mike ) which I had configured with one stock size hole (OEM slide has 2 as you know, about 2.5 mm dia.) and one 5/64" (for a total area roughly half of the 3 hole slide). The result was much worse (seems I misread the situation…..DOH!!!!). Throttle response was abysmal (felt like I was riding a Harley, lol). So, I put the 3-holers back in, backed off the fuel screws an extra 1/8 turn and shimmed the rear needle an extra 0.010" (rear cylinder runs hotter). BIG improvement. My theory is that it was a bit lean on the pilot/fuel screw circuit. It is now very close to perfect. However, based on the testing with the smaller lift area set-up, and because as I have a set of extra slides to play with (he he), I will likely try increasing the lift area slightly (still feels as though the slide is not opening quite quickly enough, based on what I felt with the earlier experiment). I prepared the extra set I have with the two OEM holes and drilled two 5/64" holes (total four holes), this nets an increase of about 10% in lift area. It is just so damn close to perfect now, this may just do it……..
Bike runs very, very well (and getting better as it breaks in). The only caveat relates to the bike`s ability to handle rapid throttle input at low speeds. While not severe, it does tend to balk slightly, a situation I don`t really care for as the one thing I have really grown to like is the bike`s snappy response. My initial thinking was that the (lighter) DJ slide springs were opening too quickly so I set about experimenting to see if I could correct it. My initial thinking was to work with the lift holes to slow down the slide lifting (without affecting their equilibrium height in steady state operation, ie. cruising). When I opened up the carbs, I noticed that the slides had a third lift hole (as per the DJ installation instructions). I replaced them with a set of slides (thanks Mike ) which I had configured with one stock size hole (OEM slide has 2 as you know, about 2.5 mm dia.) and one 5/64" (for a total area roughly half of the 3 hole slide). The result was much worse (seems I misread the situation…..DOH!!!!). Throttle response was abysmal (felt like I was riding a Harley, lol). So, I put the 3-holers back in, backed off the fuel screws an extra 1/8 turn and shimmed the rear needle an extra 0.010" (rear cylinder runs hotter). BIG improvement. My theory is that it was a bit lean on the pilot/fuel screw circuit. It is now very close to perfect. However, based on the testing with the smaller lift area set-up, and because as I have a set of extra slides to play with (he he), I will likely try increasing the lift area slightly (still feels as though the slide is not opening quite quickly enough, based on what I felt with the earlier experiment). I prepared the extra set I have with the two OEM holes and drilled two 5/64" holes (total four holes), this nets an increase of about 10% in lift area. It is just so damn close to perfect now, this may just do it……..
#17
P.S. Thanks again for your generous contribution to VTR R&D
#23
#24
Superb...absolutely superb! I don't have quite the finances for such an undertaking but would do it in a minute for results like that! Did the Triumph front fender need any modifying to fit or was it a bolt on? And to repeat, what about those air scoops?
#25
thanks for the kind words. The fender is a direct fit (you need the Triumph fastening straps, however). I opted for it as opposed to the Honda 900RR unit as the latter is butt ugly IMO. As for the air scoops, they are from Thorsten Durbahn in Germany (durbahn.de I believe).
#26
Micky, No member spoke out, and asked -So I will.. May I take it up the street? Ha Ha.. Of course after the New wears off, and she is broke in... I will make the trip(to take that ride) Wow what a build.. Nice job..
[quote=mikstr;. As for the air scoops, they are from Thorsten Durbahn in Germany (durbahn.de I believe).
Where, or who would us american VTR owners contact to get a set of those carbon airscopes... Any web site that sell "Durbahn" produces ?
[quote=mikstr;. As for the air scoops, they are from Thorsten Durbahn in Germany (durbahn.de I believe).
Where, or who would us american VTR owners contact to get a set of those carbon airscopes... Any web site that sell "Durbahn" produces ?
#27
mikstr, All I can say is WOW! I can't believe how much work you've put into it. The cockpit looks great, very innovative. And those dyno numbers are through the roof. I thought you'd gone to EFI at one point, but I'm guessing that was a can of worms. VTR of the year for sure.
#28
Thanks for the kind words.
as for the air scoops, you can order them directly from Durbahn himself (believe it`s durbahn.de). I picked mine up second-hand from a fellow forum member but they can be bought in either fiberglass, carbon fiber aor a combination of both (which mine are).
BTW, even if you have no interest in teh scoops, a vsit to Durbahn`s site has a very high drool factor (he built an RC51 that weighed in at just over 300 lbs wet, among others.... definitely worth a visit!)
cheers
as for the air scoops, you can order them directly from Durbahn himself (believe it`s durbahn.de). I picked mine up second-hand from a fellow forum member but they can be bought in either fiberglass, carbon fiber aor a combination of both (which mine are).
BTW, even if you have no interest in teh scoops, a vsit to Durbahn`s site has a very high drool factor (he built an RC51 that weighed in at just over 300 lbs wet, among others.... definitely worth a visit!)
cheers
#29
WOW. Micky - just wow! So some of these younger members can't appreciate how many resources it takes to create something like this - mechanically and cosmetically. Tell us how long it took both in months and some estimation of the financial commitment it takes to do this to a Superhawk.
I will point out for you that this is not your first build of the Superhawk.
Shayne is watching.
I cannot roll on the throttle on my Superhawk without thinking of our first order of stacks! You rock, brother! Congrats on your latest version of the best bike on the planet. And thanks for being such a great member of our forum.
Just - WOW!
I will point out for you that this is not your first build of the Superhawk.
Shayne is watching.
I cannot roll on the throttle on my Superhawk without thinking of our first order of stacks! You rock, brother! Congrats on your latest version of the best bike on the planet. And thanks for being such a great member of our forum.
Just - WOW!
#30
Gonna make me blush, lol
As long-time members know, this project has been a work in progress almost from day one (back in 2001 when I bought it used with 15,000 km on the clock). I have worked according to my resources and eBay opportunities (lol). I guess I could call it the eBay/Superhawkforum express as virtually all of the parts have been sourced from one of these two places.
I love this forum (for the great folks, the expertise, and friends I have made over the years) and plan to be here for long, long time. If I can help others along the way (as many have helped me), then that just makes it all the better.
cheers
As long-time members know, this project has been a work in progress almost from day one (back in 2001 when I bought it used with 15,000 km on the clock). I have worked according to my resources and eBay opportunities (lol). I guess I could call it the eBay/Superhawkforum express as virtually all of the parts have been sourced from one of these two places.
I love this forum (for the great folks, the expertise, and friends I have made over the years) and plan to be here for long, long time. If I can help others along the way (as many have helped me), then that just makes it all the better.
cheers