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Old 06-09-2018, 02:41 PM   #1  
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New VTR owner in the Boston area

Hi All, Just picked up a new to me 98 VTR that is in need to some work. I bought it off of my boss, he hadn't ridden it since 2010 and so it only has 16k miles.. Thankfully he had drained the carbs, although there was still some fuel still in the tank that is super skunky. The owner before him had turned the bike into a street fighter style, so no fairings, a single round headlight, and a set of renthal bars instead of the clip ons. Also came with a nice corbin seat. It isn't the prettiest bike, but it is somewhat setup for a taller guy like me, and the price was right.



The above was after a quick spray at at the car wash, it was pretty dusty sitting in his garage for the past 8 years. This is my second bike, with my first being an 81 Honda CM400, also a twin, just not a V-Twin. I have more or less finished getting that bike back to being road worthy and looking decent. Here are the two together after getting home:




First order of business is getting the VTR running. I have already drained the coolant and pulled the carbs, maybe after work this week I can get the carbs separated and cleaned up. After the carbs, all the fluids are definitely due to be replaced, and I need to clean out the tank. Does anyone have any recommendations for cleaning out the tank? Are these tanks lined?

I also had some other questions, can anyone tell me if these have the stopper mod done to them, the previous owner before my boss said they were done? Some places I see say that a set screw needs to be tapped into the side, which I don't have, but most pictures don't show there being a bolt at the back of the CCT like I have?



Also, is there something that is supposed to go on this nipple on what I assume is the thermostat?



And my last question for now, any way to tell if the suspension has been modified without taking apart the forks? I was told there might be something done, but he wasn't sure what.

Either way, excited for a new, bigger bike, as well as another project to keep me busy.
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Old 06-09-2018, 04:32 PM   #2  
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Welcome! Looks like you have some work to do, but a decent foundation.

Those are the cct's you want to get out asap, and replace with manuals.
No need to separate the carbs to rebuild/clean. Be very careful, I suggest doing one at a time. Jets are different and easy to mix up.

No way to tell if there was work done to the forks unless you pull them apart. Which you should do anyway. I'm sure the fluid in there is toast.
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Old 06-09-2018, 07:09 PM   #3  
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Bottom pic is correct. Nothing goes on that nipple.
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Old 06-09-2018, 07:10 PM   #4  
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Welcome! Looks like you have some work to do, but a decent foundation.

Those are the cct's you want to get out asap, and replace with manuals.
No need to separate the carbs to rebuild/clean. Be very careful, I suggest doing one at a time. Jets are different and easy to mix up.

No way to tell if there was work done to the forks unless you pull them apart. Which you should do anyway. I'm sure the fluid in there is toast.
Thanks for the info, yeah they didn't look like the other stopper modded ccts I have seen on here. I think I will probably replace with some stopper modded ccts, seems like a better idea in my mind than the manual ones. I am pretty comfortable pulling apart the carbs, having done a couple bikes in the past, plus the slides were literally stuck in the closed position from the gummed up gas, I am planning on soaking the bodies assuming I can get all the plastic off. And good call on the forks, any way I can tell once I have them open what is stock and what is aftermarket?

[EDIT] Looking again online, it may have the stopper mod done and nothing is seen on the outside, I guess I will need to check either way.

Last edited by cpl rampage; 06-09-2018 at 07:41 PM.
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Old 06-09-2018, 07:42 PM   #5  
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Bottom pic is correct. Nothing goes on that nipple.
Awesome thanks!
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Old 06-09-2018, 09:44 PM   #6  
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If and when you pop open the forks, share a pic of the springs and spacer. We can tell if stock.

This is the most comprehensive stopper mod thread on the web. CCT (Cam Chain Tensioner) Fail Safe Mod. (aka Stopper Mod) - VTR1000.ORG
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Old 06-09-2018, 09:48 PM   #7  
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Be very careful with the plastic choke fittings (that go into carbs). They are very prone to break.
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Old 06-10-2018, 07:03 PM   #8  
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Thanks for all the helpful links and insights, everyone! I was able to get the carbs apart and broken down. Didn't realize you need a special screw driver for the mixture screw, so I couldn't get that out, but otherwise ok. Anyone have a source on where to buy this tool?

The unfortunate part of all this is, the carbs were in fact not drained, and there was some great old gas that had turned a nice shade of green. I had enough time to dunk the first housing and bowl in a can of carb cleaner after I had stripped it, I was really impressed what it did in just 20 minutes.



Still need to throw the other housing in, as well as the small parts. I am worried about how corroded the emulsion tubes and jets were, I am going to buy new. These carbs have been rejetted and the PO was nice enough to write the specs on the air box cover. The bike has a K&N and a jardine exhaust, is 190 in the front and 195 in the rear too big? that is supposed to be what is in there now. It looks like it probably has the dynojet kit, as it has the extra hole drilled in the slides. I will talk to by boss and see how he though it was running when he was riding it. could always buy one set down too.
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Old 06-10-2018, 07:20 PM   #9  
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You can use a pair of tweezers or hemostats on the fuel screws. Once out, slot them for a straight screwdriver.

Last edited by Wolverine; 06-10-2018 at 07:25 PM.
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Old 06-11-2018, 06:13 AM   #10  
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Hey CPL in Boston area
I am in Quincy and if you are looking for any help, would be more than glad to give a hand. You can see what I have done to my VTR on the wonderful Forum. Be careful with the install of the manual CCT's.
This is a Great Bike and I have been captured by it's character since I got it.
Have Fun
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Old 06-11-2018, 12:51 PM   #11  
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Wolverine View Post
You can use a pair of tweezers or hemostats on the fuel screws. Once out, slot them for a straight screwdriver.
Ah good call, I will attempt that tonight.

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Hey CPL in Boston area
I am in Quincy and if you are looking for any help, would be more than glad to give a hand. You can see what I have done to my VTR on the wonderful Forum. Be careful with the install of the manual CCT's.
This is a Great Bike and I have been captured by it's character since I got it.
Have Fun
Awesome, I am in Waltham. Thanks for the offer, I may take you up on it if things get tough, but so far this bike has been easy enough.

Does anyone have a recommendation on what to use to clean out my tank? I have cleaned real old and rusty tanks with muratic acid and chains I think, but I don't think I need to go that aggressive. It just has a lot of gummed up gas and what looks like small "crystals" on the dry areas? Are these tanks lined from the factory?
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Old 06-13-2018, 09:34 AM   #12  
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Ah good call, I will attempt that tonight.



Awesome, I am in Waltham. Thanks for the offer, I may take you up on it if things get tough, but so far this bike has been easy enough.

Does anyone have a recommendation on what to use to clean out my tank? I have cleaned real old and rusty tanks with muratic acid and chains I think, but I don't think I need to go that aggressive. It just has a lot of gummed up gas and what looks like small "crystals" on the dry areas? Are these tanks lined from the factory?
Tank is not lined from factory, just plain steel.
If it was just sludge and varnish type stuff.
Remove the petcock, plug it up, use POR cleaner degreaser
Amazon Amazon

or Star Brite 93664 Fuel Tank Cleaner Star Brite | 93664 | Fuel Tank Cleaner | 71247936643

If rusty as well, follow cleaner with POR-15 40204 Metal Prep and POR-15 49216 U.S. Standard Tank Sealer
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Old 06-13-2018, 09:41 AM   #13  
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Tank is not lined from factory, just plain steel.
If it was just sludge and varnish type stuff.
Remove the petcock, plug it up, use POR cleaner degreaser https://www.amazon.com/POR-15-40104-...N710RAPM86QPQH

or Star Brite 93664 Fuel Tank Cleaner Star Brite 93664 Fuel Tank Cleaner 71247936643

If rusty as well, follow cleaner with POR-15 40204 Metal Prep and POR-15 49216 U.S. Standard Tank Sealer
Awesome, thanks for the info and recommendations.

Made some more progress on the carbs last night, and was able to clean all the ports out. The only thing that I really cant confirm is clean enough is the pilot jet, so I am just going to order a new one of those, in addition to the gasket kits and the float valves. Before ordering from the dealer, I am going to check out the CCTs and at the same time check the valve lash so I can order some new shims as needed. Hopefully I can get that done this weekend and get some parts on order.
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Old 06-13-2018, 01:34 PM   #14  
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Awesome, thanks for the info and recommendations.

Made some more progress on the carbs last night, and was able to clean all the ports out. The only thing that I really cant confirm is clean enough is the pilot jet, so I am just going to order a new one of those, in addition to the gasket kits and the float valves. Before ordering from the dealer, I am going to check out the CCTs and at the same time check the valve lash so I can order some new shims as needed. Hopefully I can get that done this weekend and get some parts on order.
You soaked the entire carb body in that carb cleaner can, background of your picture?
If so, you need to replace the O rings in the fuel needle, they are now junk.
Jet cleaners are $35 for a set, but the most used sizes are the smallest three.... and those can be replicated with piano wire if that is available locally.

Or just replace them...lol
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Old 06-13-2018, 04:10 PM   #15  
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I use a single wire pulled from a wire brush to clean my tiny jet ports. Never failed so far.
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Old 06-14-2018, 01:37 PM   #16  
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You soaked the entire carb body in that carb cleaner can, background of your picture?
If so, you need to replace the O rings in the fuel needle, they are now junk.
Jet cleaners are $35 for a set, but the most used sizes are the smallest three.... and those can be replicated with piano wire if that is available locally.

Or just replace them...lol
By fuel needle, do you mean the float valve or the needle in the slide? Either way both were removed before soaking, and the needle that was in the slide was soaked separately from the housings. I had planned on replacing the float valve from the beginning, having been in the "closed" position the whole time with nasty gas on both sides of the seat has definitely affected the rubber on the tip. Or are you calling the idle mixture a fuel needle? That was removed after soaking cause it was stuck in place from the gas, the new o-rings come in the gasket set.

I have some jet cleaners, but since the orifice in the pilot jet is so far down inside, it is hard to tell how clean I got it or if I have damaged it cleaning it, they are only a few bux so I am just going to replace.

Quote:
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I use a single wire pulled from a wire brush to clean my tiny jet ports. Never failed so far.
Yeah I have tried that, as well as using the back end of some micro drills, but i just cant be sure I have done a good job on that pilot jet with the orifice being down so far inside.
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Old 06-15-2018, 05:28 AM   #17  
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Small update, got some work in tonight before it got dark (bike is outside unfortunately). Pulled the valve covers off, and turned the front cyl over to TDC and checked the valve lash. Thankfully both the front are rear cylinders were in spec as far as valve lash. Since there was no way to tell if the CCT stopper mod has been done, I decided to pull off one of the CCTs and check. Good thing I did, it did not have it done. I went ahead and did it, it wasn't too bad. I will need to take them back out to replace the gaskets though, they ripped when coming out.

Based on the cct mods not being done, and having seen that the front are rear jets were swapped, I decided to check the R/R for replacement, and unsurprisingly it was not done like my boss had been told. I wish I knew what I was looking for when I was inspecting the bike, that is one thing that is easy to check. Oh well.

Got all the carb parts on order, bought a FH020 R/R with the connectors and crimps as well. I inspected the gas tank, and while it was mostly just nasty varnish and stale gas, there was a verrry small amount of rust down near the petcock, so I decided to go all the way, and ordered the cleaner, prep and sealer for the tank. Next thing to tackle while waiting for all the parts to come in will be inspecting the brakes, and doing all the fluids.
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Old 06-15-2018, 05:42 AM   #18  
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it did not have it done. I went ahead and did it, it wasn't too bad. I will need to take them back out to replace the gaskets though, they ripped when coming out.
Confusing. So you installed manual adjust cct's? You didn't reinstall the oe's?
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Old 06-15-2018, 09:04 AM   #19  
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By fuel needle, do you mean the float valve or the needle in the slide?.
Neither, I am referencing air/fuel screw the one you found out is a D shape on the adjustment end...
If you did not remove that screw, the spring, washer and O ring before dipping, that O ring is now damaged and in need of replacement
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Old 06-15-2018, 10:05 AM   #20  
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Neither, I am referencing air/fuel screw the one you found out is a D shape on the adjustment end...
If you did not remove that screw, the spring, washer and O ring before dipping, that O ring is now damaged and in need of replacement
Ah ok, I have always know that as the idle mixture screw and that threw me for one, Thought I had missed something on the carb. It was soaked, but it had to be, it was frozen in with the gummed up gas. The gasket kits from Honda I ordered should have the O-Rings required to replace those.
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Old 07-05-2018, 07:32 PM   #21  
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After waiting for parts, I finally got the carbs rebuilt. I also went ahead and cleaned, prepped and sealed the gas tank. Found out the petcock was stuck shut, so I had to grab a rebuild kit for that too. I forgot to grab pic of this, but I am sure people have seen plenty of the same pics before. I did want to share some pictures and documentation on the FH020AA Regulator/Rectifier adapter plate I made for these bikes. I wanted to make sure it was mounted well, and didn't vibrate or rub on the fairing. Pictures of the install, as well as a mechanical detail drawing showing the dimensions for it. I was planning on making it on the CNC, but it was down for maintenance. So this was made with some punches, a band saw, drill and belt sander, but you could make it completely with hand tools if you wanted. I used helicoils on the M6 tapped holes because I had them, but there is enough material there that you could do without with no problem. I bought the regulator and the connector kit from http://www.roadstercycle.com/ They shipped super fast and their website is super helpful. I bought just the connectors, and then use wiring and a sealed fuse holder from my work. Installed fuse holder on the same bolt that holds the rear ignition coil, and wired the power and ground direct to the battery. I used a Delphi Metri-Pack 630 crimp tool on the connectors, it is close enough, but you can absolutely crimp these down with some pliers and solder.



























With the R/R installed, and the carbs and tank straightened out, I was able to get it to fire up. It burned a bit of oil when it first fired up, but cleared up as it warmed up. I am guessing most of that was just due to not having been started in 8 years. Got everything installed tonight, but again forgot to take pics. Hoping to sync the carbs and adjust the idle mixture this weekend and take it out for its first trip in 8 years. Getting excited, it sounds great, although a bit loud, I will see if I end up keeping this exhaust.
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Old 07-06-2018, 03:48 PM   #22  
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Clean install. If I get around to swapping the RR then I was thinking of something similar.
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Old 09-16-2018, 04:23 PM   #23  
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Hi All, it has been awhile! I rode the bike for a week or two after getting the carbs synced, but took it off the road to replace the tires. They were something like 18 years old at this point, and rock hard, although surprisingly no cracking or dry rot. The paint on the wheels was peeling pretty bad and I had a buddy offer use of his powder coating oven, I just had to buy the powder. So off came the wheels, and then the tires off the wheels. I sand blasted the wheels at work in prep for the powder coat.




At this point, we found out his powder coating oven was broken. Between getting replacement parts for that, him going on vacation, work getting super busy for me, and then him being busy building a new bike for a race, it just never happened. I finally gave up hope and bit the bullet, and just dropped the wheels off at a professional powder coater on Thursday, they should be done in a few days.

While the bike is down, I did some research on longer throttle cables. It honestly looks like the person that turned it into a street fighter, just used the stock throttle cables. Because of this, the cables were routed outside of the front shocks, and every time you turned sharp right, it kinked the cables. They put some electrical tape on the kink to stop it from getting worse, or maybe to stop water getting in? But either way it has to go.

I found out that F4i cables might be an option, and I also found out a longer cable for the F4i bikes is the cables from a 929. Since my bike has some stupid wide bars on it, I thought the smart way to go was the 929 cables, picked up a good condition used pair on ebay. The picture below shows the crazy kink in my stock cables, and then straightened out and compared to the 929 cables. Since I had such a hard time getting measurements on what the stock cables were, as well as the 929, I snapped a bunch of pictures with a tape measure for others reference. The album can be found here: https://photos.app.goo.gl/rjboUQ85LBifViJL7





They were almost a drop-in replacement, I had to cut off about an inch of the outer conduit on the pull cable, I was able to just pull the end ferrule off and trim back with a razor blade and the Dremel.









The other little project I worked on, was fixing up the lighting on this bike. First, the headlight bucket, which is from a SV650 I think, had a crack around the mounting point. The PO had tried to repair it with some JB Weld, and it didnít hold. I looked around for a used replacement on eBay, but people want stupid money for buckets that are in worse shape than mine. So, I went ahead and scraped off all the old JB weld, roughed it up, and using some high strength epoxy, filled the gap and attached a piece of plastic to the inside for strength. Using some Bondo Glazing putty I filled and smoothed the outside. From there some satin black paint made it look pretty good.





The next part of fixing the lighting, was new, more visible turn signals. No pictures of this yet, but the main goal was to get rid of the hard to see smoked rear turn signals. I will snap some pictures when I get it back on the road.

Now just a waiting game for the call from the powder coater, canít wait to get it back on the road.
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