Shorter shifting 'Hawk
 

For those of you wanting to get better shifting with shorter throws, try the following:

* Loosen the adjusters on the link and extend it out about 4-5 threads. This will move the shifter in the downward direction. Leave it loose.
* Now loosen and remove the shifter arm bolt and remove and replace the arm exactly ONE spline in the clockwise direction. Install and tighten the shifter arm bolt.
* Adjust the shift lever to your liking and tighten the two locknuts.

What this does is gives you less lever travel due to the increased angle of the shifter arm. It works great at the track and street with or without the clutch.

Man, I have had a couple of arguments about this!!

Non-believers telling me it can't work. It is hard to explain, until you see it work on a bike. My physics is not what it used to be. LOL

I've spent the time at track days to get that adjustment right and it makes a huge difference.

Thanks for the info. I am looking forward to trying it (although it will have to wait until Spring).

cheers

My tip here would be to install heim joints on the end of your shift rod while you are at it. The ball and cup joints that Honda use have a fair bit of play in them even from new. A heim joint like Yamaha use on the R1 is a LOT better. Your local engineering supply shop should be able to supply them with left & right hand threads. I can buy a pair of them here for $40 so should be even a bit cheaper for you. A pair of genuine Yamaha dust boots finishes it off nicely.

Tip no. 2 is to re-bush the pivot for the shifter. Lots of slop in there you can take out too.

I thought these bits on my bike were worn out when I got it, so I went to Honda and looked at a new bike and it was the same! Just cheap components. I am used to dirt bikes that have no likages at all, so it felt terrible to me.

These mods sort it out nicely and are cheap to do.

Bump!
makes sense. less rod movement but less leverage so a slight amount more effort, probably won't notice it.
just did it. will try it out tomorrow.

Sounds like a new project for me. Thx for the info, I will do it tomorrow

I did this mod while I was going through my bike. It looks like it will do a better job of clearing the toes of my riding boots. I always feel like such a duck with my toes stuck out instead of tucked in on the pegs.

Sorry, I'm probably an idiot, but what do you mean when you say "loosen the adjusters on the link"? What link?

It's actually the adjustable shifting rod. It connects the shift lever to the arm attached to the shift shaft. There's (2) 10mm lock nuts on there. Loosen them and then turn the rod to adjust.

It doesn't take much. My adjustment was about 1/8th inch total.

Works great, did it years ago after reading a post on RLZ.

To add on e more tip, you can also improve the shifting even more by adding the FactoryPro Shift Detent kits. Really makes the gears pop solid when shifting. The shift detent are is a piece of crap on the stock setip compared the the FactoryPro Roller bearing Shift Detent Arm.

Sorry, no pics of the stock and FactoryPro arms, did this mod four or five years ago.

Works great... fantastic tip. :thumbsup:

anybody know if you can buy a shorter linkage to shorten the throw more, maybe from a sportyer honda

Most likely not, the shortening of the actual linkage here is a matter of a few mm's only... The main purpose isn't making the link shorter, it's changing the angle, wich changes the precision of the lever...

A better idea is as shayne suggested, I have tried it...
Tighten up the original lever with a shim on the lever axle to remove play, and possibly give it a new bushing if needed, then use heim joints...

How did you attach the new heim to the shift lever (the OEM is riveted)? I already lenghtened my lever for mty Vario adjustable pegs & did the linkage "adjustment". Real thin shim stock is required instead of re-bushing the lever pivot.

I used a Stainless steel socked head hex fastener, nut and some high strength thread locker (Loctite 271)

Tightened things down adding a touch of thread locker to the nut. Ground the head off the fastener, and all excess off after the nut. Great fit, will never come loose. And if I ever want to replace a part of the system, it's as easy as replacing the fastener. ($0.35)

i've been doing this to all my bikes for years. i usually change it by two splines. the throw isn't being shortened, just moved. it feels better because your upshifts are much more "sure".

i've never figured out why the bike manus put the levers so high. it's rediculous.

Makes sense to me! I may give it a shot. It's so easy to shift anyways clutchless, a little more effort might be better.

do all that but make the gears backwards. to where you are shifting down to grab a higher gear instead of pulling up. it makes it a hell of alot better. this is how my race bike is set up. i just think it is easier to tap down then pulling it up. just my 2 cents anyways...

My SH is the worst shifting bike 1st to 2nd gear that I have ever had. My CBR954RR was almost as bad but I found that pre-loading the shifter before the shift let it shift smoothly without any mods. I will do the mod in Spring but there is still a few weeks of nice riding weather here in Victoria. Sunny and 13 degrees right now!

Just did the mod now... I will ride Tomorrow and report back. Seems better just by a small test in the shed but the road will be the real test i guess Cheers, T

Ok Adjusted the arm 1 turn clockwise and went for a test ride... Came back and did an adjustment on the rod to suit my Foot/boot and it is GREAT, very happy!! Cheers for the tip, Tony

Did the mod too, using my method *cough*, and it does seem to be a little better.
Just a tip, the throw is indeed shorter, however you need more force to make up for that. If you don't upshift hard enough, it will simply pop out of gear.

look like good setup, I should try it
http://freeimagestocks.com/content/20/grey.png

Did this on two SH's today and I must admit, noticeably different. It feels Great! Thanks Hawkrider! Also, for somereason I can't access your 996 site on my tablet or phone, any advice? I like to use the tab in the garage while working for instructions and pic reference.

Did the mod last weekend, what a difference!!!
Thank you Greg, valuable info as always.....

I have a 2002 VTR. shifter rod is simply a threaded rod with both ends threaded, (cant adjust w/o removing shift lever). Is it 4-5 threads on each end? I got the rest.

Yes, you can adjust it without removing the shifter... You loosen the locknuts, and then spin the threaded rod... That makes it longer... So yeah, 4-5 goes for both ends, as both spin together... the whole point of it is to be able to adjust the shifter position...

Then you move the splined arm, and set the pedal to where you want it, and lock it...

thanks! Gonna give it a try.