R1/R6 Regulator/Rectifier Swap
11-05-2009, 02:18 PM
#61
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Its been discussed but maybe its because your fitting a more modern unit R/R. 
As far as i can see from a wiring diagram, the grey socket houses 3 connections for the pulse/pickup wires and the black socket houses 2 connections for the negative (+) and positive (-).
The diagram below will show which order the (+) and (-) fits.
As far as i can see from a wiring diagram, the grey socket houses 3 connections for the pulse/pickup wires and the black socket houses 2 connections for the negative (+) and positive (-).
The diagram below will show which order the (+) and (-) fits.
Figure I would jumper the connection and run it before connecting the hot/gnd....make sure it's a good o/p before mounting it permanently.
11-11-2009, 01:02 PM
#63
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I usually hate "fixing what ain't broken", since I've never had an R/R failure on my '05 VTR, but at the same time, I don't want to be on a monster road trip and fry it. So after much delay I finally did the R/R swap today.
We recently parted out a 1999 R6 track bike. The harness from the R6 was minimized (excess wire delete), so I was just gonna scrap it. But before I did I removed the R/R coupler so that I could have a cleaner setup. I used a drill to elongate the holes in the R6 R/R so that it would bolt right up to the stock mounting points on the sub frame.
I checked output before removing the OEM R/R, 14.6v at idle and 13.9 at 5k. After hooking up the R6 R/R I checked output again, 14.17 at idle and 14.15 at 5k. Obviously the R6 R/R is more constant... don't know why, but it is.
We recently parted out a 1999 R6 track bike. The harness from the R6 was minimized (excess wire delete), so I was just gonna scrap it. But before I did I removed the R/R coupler so that I could have a cleaner setup. I used a drill to elongate the holes in the R6 R/R so that it would bolt right up to the stock mounting points on the sub frame.
I checked output before removing the OEM R/R, 14.6v at idle and 13.9 at 5k. After hooking up the R6 R/R I checked output again, 14.17 at idle and 14.15 at 5k. Obviously the R6 R/R is more constant... don't know why, but it is.
11-15-2009, 11:13 AM
#64
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One additional idea.....if you have a dremmel tool handy, you can cut apart the old plastic plug and you won't have to cut or install new plug ends on the wires. The old ones on my bike slid right into the posts on the new reg/rec. I wrapped each one in electrical tape to be sure they wouldn't touch.
11-15-2009, 09:16 PM
#65
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The oem pos. and neg terminals were far too large for the R6 R/R and would make for a very sloppy fit. I'd fear they would come loose at some point. Also, the terminals are held in place by a small lock tab, it's much easier to use a small pick and push it out of the way and slide the terminals out. This way you won't ruin the plug and you can give/sell it to a member who may need it as they are known for melting.
03-21-2010, 02:17 AM
#67
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If i remember correctly the TL1000R Reg/Rec has dual wires for a positive and a negative.
In case and due to the extra voltage/ampage that may be produced i wouldn't advice it personally as you would have to double up on the postive and negative wires which may cause severe heat and a burn out.
In case and due to the extra voltage/ampage that may be produced i wouldn't advice it personally as you would have to double up on the postive and negative wires which may cause severe heat and a burn out.
03-21-2010, 10:17 AM
#68
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I was able to push all the connectors out of my plug and re-use the three smaller ones, but like he said the two larger ones you will for sure want to replace with something smaller so they don't work there way off.
03-22-2010, 08:51 AM
#71
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I'm sold on the Motovoltage R/R, was it expensive? Yes. Is it worth it? Time will tell, but the immediate pay off is that I can pull it off my bike and install it to any bike I want to.
The R/R needs ventilation, which it doesn't get enough of, to cool off. Want the factory/replacement to live longer, cut a hole in the seat cowl, install a piece of screen and get the R/R some extra air.
I know, some have had outstanding success with stock, keep doing whatever rain dance you are doing, and next time teach me that dance.
Last edited by Erik S.; 03-22-2010 at 09:00 AM.
03-22-2010, 12:07 PM
#72
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I used a r/r off of a 08 GSXR1000,it had 2 pos. & 2 neg. so i soldered 1 pair to the wiring harness,the other pair i ran directly to the battery. 14.1 volts at idle,14.8 at 3K. 2 years no problems.
05-27-2010, 02:54 PM
#73
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Has anyone tried backing out the blade connectors from the OEM Honda plug, pushing them onto the Yamaha R/R, then filling in the whole 5-blade female connector in the R/R with potting compound? If so, what compound did you use? Does anyone know of a source for the R1 male plug for the R/R?
05-27-2010, 03:09 PM
#74
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Um... Why would you do that? Then you cant remove the connectors without a lot of work... I just soldered the blade connectors after crimping them (minimizes resistance & heat) and wrapped it in tape... I don't see any real gain in potting it as I'd like to be able to remove stuff when I work on the bike...
05-27-2010, 03:37 PM
#75
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Has anyone tried backing out the blade connectors from the OEM Honda plug, pushing them onto the Yamaha R/R, then filling in the whole 5-blade female connector in the R/R with potting compound? If so, what compound did you use? Does anyone know of a source for the R1 male plug for the R/R?
05-27-2010, 04:20 PM
#76
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Potting the connector seals it from the elements, electrically insulates and provides more of a physical barrier between your battery terminals than a piece of tape. I am aware there are drawbacks to potting. Just wanted to know if anyone has tried it with success.
I found a source for the Yamaha plug: http://www.regulatorrectifier.com/ca...Connector-plug. The bad news is that it costs $20.
I found a source for the Yamaha plug: http://www.regulatorrectifier.com/ca...Connector-plug. The bad news is that it costs $20.
Last edited by asdf33; 05-28-2010 at 06:28 AM. Reason: link found.
06-29-2010, 08:24 AM
#77
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Not for a hawk, but I have an Aprila 125 powered kart that will destroy a battery if you leave it connected while running. I want to swap in another R/R just like a did for the hawk, but there is one additional wire on the stock unit, appears to be a ground?
Ours ground off the unit I believe, so could I use a Yamaha R/R with an additional ground wire run to the frame (this unit mounts to plastic)? A stock 125 R/R costs a fortune to buy / ship from the UK.
Ours ground off the unit I believe, so could I use a Yamaha R/R with an additional ground wire run to the frame (this unit mounts to plastic)? A stock 125 R/R costs a fortune to buy / ship from the UK.
06-29-2010, 08:43 AM
#78
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Basicly all R/R's are the same thing... It has three connectors to the stator, one positive and one negative and the ring connector that most definetly is a ground...
Measure the voltage coming from the stator and if it's in the same neighbourhood as the VTR (highly likely) then anything that works on the VTR works on the Aprilia 125... Ie a R1 R/R will then work nicely... But I would suggest remounting it to the frame somewhere as R/R's need to bleed of the heat somewhere...
Measure the voltage coming from the stator and if it's in the same neighbourhood as the VTR (highly likely) then anything that works on the VTR works on the Aprilia 125... Ie a R1 R/R will then work nicely... But I would suggest remounting it to the frame somewhere as R/R's need to bleed of the heat somewhere...
06-29-2010, 08:59 AM
#79
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I'll pull up the manual and get some numbers. The current unit is mounted to the back of the seat, not only giving it poor airflow, but makes my right shoulder VERY warm after a few laps lol 
I'll see where else I can mount it.
Thanks!
I'll see where else I can mount it.Thanks!
07-11-2010, 03:57 PM
#80
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NEED HELP!!
Connected POS and NEG wrong way. 
Searched, but I did not find any. Maybe my use of the word or there is noboyd as stupid as me.
I have been busy and finally swap R1 R/R purchased from member here back in March or something this year.
Everything was good until my friend show up to help me at the time of reconnet female connectors to R1 R/R.
He was telling me red and green wired goes and I did not check mself, but it was too last. I plug into opposite.
Now I think I fried my red super chicken.
I am sure nobody done that especially Instruction emphasize "Double check" Anyway, What can I do to save the SH? Do I need whole wiring harness?
I do appreciate any of your advise.
Thanks
Searched, but I did not find any. Maybe my use of the word or there is noboyd as stupid as me.
I have been busy and finally swap R1 R/R purchased from member here back in March or something this year.
Everything was good until my friend show up to help me at the time of reconnet female connectors to R1 R/R.
He was telling me red and green wired goes and I did not check mself, but it was too last. I plug into opposite.
Now I think I fried my red super chicken.
I am sure nobody done that especially Instruction emphasize "Double check" Anyway, What can I do to save the SH? Do I need whole wiring harness?
I do appreciate any of your advise.
Thanks
07-11-2010, 05:13 PM
#81
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What exactly is wrong now? Wouldn't it just not charge on account of the diodes going the wrong way? I was trying to get one working on my kart, tried both directions with no luck, but no adverse affects either.
So FYI, an R6 reg won't work on an RS125 if anybody is asking. Voltage 30 or so lower off the stator, so apparently to low to generate current.
So FYI, an R6 reg won't work on an RS125 if anybody is asking. Voltage 30 or so lower off the stator, so apparently to low to generate current.
07-11-2010, 06:27 PM
#82
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What exactly is wrong now? Wouldn't it just not charge on account of the diodes going the wrong way? I was trying to get one working on my kart, tried both directions with no luck, but no adverse affects either.
So FYI, an R6 reg won't work on an RS125 if anybody is asking. Voltage 30 or so lower off the stator, so apparently to low to generate current.
So FYI, an R6 reg won't work on an RS125 if anybody is asking. Voltage 30 or so lower off the stator, so apparently to low to generate current.
I pluged red wire female connestor to the pin supporced to be for Green and green for red.
my bike 98 SH, R1 R/R just like the one here.
Red line and green line was crossed.
POS and NEG was reversed. pluged into R1 R/R with female connectors.
I pluged 3 yellows first and Red then green.
After that even light on speedometer doesn't turn on.
Thanks
Last edited by mcdoggy2000; 07-11-2010 at 08:18 PM.
07-12-2010, 06:33 PM
#85
2005 VTR1000F Superhawk
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Join Date: Apr 2010
Posts: 6
Bummer...
Well I guess I have fallen victim to a failed r/r as well.
So it all started about a month and a half ago: went to start the bike, and it won't start. Charged the brand new battery that the previous owner had put on the bike when I bought it this spring and she fired up just fine.
Went back to ride the bike again about 2 weeks later, battery was dead again. I took this as a sign that I'm not riding the bike as much as I should be and figured the clock was draining the battery.
So I permanently mounted the wiring terminals for my battery tender on the bike, figuring that would take care of it. Yesterday the bike wouldn't even start. Turned over for about 0.5 sec but that was it.
I left the tender on over night and the battery is fully charged, but the bike still won't start. Did the r/r take out the battery as well?
My '05 hawk already has a larger heat sink, but I ordered a replacement R6 since everyone seems to be having better luck with them. Does anyone know which will be larger? I guess I'll find out.
So it all started about a month and a half ago: went to start the bike, and it won't start. Charged the brand new battery that the previous owner had put on the bike when I bought it this spring and she fired up just fine.
Went back to ride the bike again about 2 weeks later, battery was dead again. I took this as a sign that I'm not riding the bike as much as I should be and figured the clock was draining the battery.
So I permanently mounted the wiring terminals for my battery tender on the bike, figuring that would take care of it. Yesterday the bike wouldn't even start. Turned over for about 0.5 sec but that was it.
I left the tender on over night and the battery is fully charged, but the bike still won't start. Did the r/r take out the battery as well?
My '05 hawk already has a larger heat sink, but I ordered a replacement R6 since everyone seems to be having better luck with them. Does anyone know which will be larger? I guess I'll find out.
07-12-2010, 06:42 PM
#86
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07-13-2010, 01:52 AM
#87
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Well I guess I have fallen victim to a failed r/r as well.
So it all started about a month and a half ago: went to start the bike, and it won't start. Charged the brand new battery that the previous owner had put on the bike when I bought it this spring and she fired up just fine.
Went back to ride the bike again about 2 weeks later, battery was dead again. I took this as a sign that I'm not riding the bike as much as I should be and figured the clock was draining the battery.
So I permanently mounted the wiring terminals for my battery tender on the bike, figuring that would take care of it. Yesterday the bike wouldn't even start. Turned over for about 0.5 sec but that was it.
I left the tender on over night and the battery is fully charged, but the bike still won't start. Did the r/r take out the battery as well?
My '05 hawk already has a larger heat sink, but I ordered a replacement R6 since everyone seems to be having better luck with them. Does anyone know which will be larger? I guess I'll find out.
So it all started about a month and a half ago: went to start the bike, and it won't start. Charged the brand new battery that the previous owner had put on the bike when I bought it this spring and she fired up just fine.
Went back to ride the bike again about 2 weeks later, battery was dead again. I took this as a sign that I'm not riding the bike as much as I should be and figured the clock was draining the battery.
So I permanently mounted the wiring terminals for my battery tender on the bike, figuring that would take care of it. Yesterday the bike wouldn't even start. Turned over for about 0.5 sec but that was it.
I left the tender on over night and the battery is fully charged, but the bike still won't start. Did the r/r take out the battery as well?
My '05 hawk already has a larger heat sink, but I ordered a replacement R6 since everyone seems to be having better luck with them. Does anyone know which will be larger? I guess I'll find out.
All you need is a cheap multimeter...
07-13-2010, 04:26 PM
#88
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FIXED!!!!!
Thanks Tweety!!! It was the green fuse right next to positive cable.
I thougt I was so F*cked at the time.
It is Honda so engineer design bike to prevent idiot like myself.
Anyway, Thank you so much!!!
I thougt I was so F*cked at the time.
It is Honda so engineer design bike to prevent idiot like myself.
Anyway, Thank you so much!!!
07-13-2010, 05:21 PM
#89
2005 VTR1000F Superhawk
Squid
Join Date: Apr 2010
Posts: 6
07-13-2010, 07:12 PM
#90
2005 VTR1000F Superhawk
Squid
Join Date: Apr 2010
Posts: 6
So I check my honda service manual and went through the battery/charging troubleshooting section. My battery leakage was out of spec, even with the r/r removed, at 1.6 mA. The manual says that any more leakage than 0.1 mA probably means a short circuit in wiring harness somewhere. Anybody know of any specific connections that are common to have issues with?
