Oil Filter Cross referencing...
Slacker
Superstock
Superstock
Joined: Jun 2005
Posts: 489
From: San Antonio, TX
SuperTech is a Wal-Mart house brand. They no longer carry the filters, so I would have to assume extinction.
Yea, I believe YOUR filter is the L14610 which is even longer (3.52 in). I used one that length before and had to go without the lower cowl too!
As it happened, I was able to bolt up the lower cowl without any cutting. It is a very tight fit and the filter pushes out on the plastic a little, but it does go together. Do you think there is any risk of damaging the filter due to vibration? I am inclined to think it will be fine.
As it happened, I was able to bolt up the lower cowl without any cutting. It is a very tight fit and the filter pushes out on the plastic a little, but it does go together. Do you think there is any risk of damaging the filter due to vibration? I am inclined to think it will be fine.
Last edited by BeerHunter; May 20, 2012 at 10:23 PM. Reason: additional content
Banned
MotoGP
Joined: Aug 2007
Posts: 5,942
From: Lake View Terrace, CA
SuperTech is a Wal-Mart house brand. They no longer carry the filters, so I would have to assume extinction.
Yea, I believe YOUR filter is the L14610 which is even longer (3.52 in). I used one that length before and had to go without the lower cowl too!
As it happened, I was able to bolt up the lower cowl without any cutting. It is a very tight fit and the filter pushes out on the plastic a little, but it does go together. Do you think there is any risk of damaging the filter due to vibration? I am inclined to think it will be fine.
Yea, I believe YOUR filter is the L14610 which is even longer (3.52 in). I used one that length before and had to go without the lower cowl too!
As it happened, I was able to bolt up the lower cowl without any cutting. It is a very tight fit and the filter pushes out on the plastic a little, but it does go together. Do you think there is any risk of damaging the filter due to vibration? I am inclined to think it will be fine.
or my bike has a long one.....
Senior Member
SuperSport
Joined: Jul 2012
Posts: 582
From: Santa Fe, New Mexico
I cannot resist an oil thread! I am new to the VTR so this discussion is of great interest to me. I was riding a '77 BMW R100S. An air cooled engine with oil cooler. The oil used was very specific to that engine. It had to be an SG rated oil. The formulations have changed over the years and will destroy some of the brass thrust bearings and shims. Very bad for the engine. My VTR will get synth oil and it's good to know anout the energy saving oils. Since this is a liquid cooled engine, I would expect that a 20W-50 or 10W-40 would be fine. I am religious about oil changes, every 3k and filters at the same time. With the VTR I plan to change every 4k and looking for the best filter for the money. It's the cheapest way to make the bike run a long time, it's money well spent so filters are worth it. The PO ran honda synth but I see no reason for that. I want an oil that I can depend on that I can get anywhere. Mobil 1 or Shell seems a good choice. One last thing, bikes and cars have different needs and oil filters made for motorcycles is what I choose. Many things can be swapped out between cars and motorcycles but filters, no. Just my humble opinion. Like I said, I'm new to the VTR but have been riding bikes since I was a tyke.
Senior Member
Back Marker
Joined: Nov 2012
Posts: 211
From: Henderson, NV
Automotive oils, whether synthetic or non synthetic, are NOT designed to be run in motorcycle engines. They do not have the same polymers to keep the gears in the transmission from beating them into submission within a few hundred miles. THAT is why there are motorcycle specific oils. They are designed to take the punishment that the gearbox will put it through. PERIOD.
Senior Member
SuperBike
Joined: Sep 2010
Posts: 1,987
From: Bisbee, AZ
Automotive oils, whether synthetic or non synthetic, are NOT designed to be run in motorcycle engines. They do not have the same polymers to keep the gears in the transmission from beating them into submission within a few hundred miles. THAT is why there are motorcycle specific oils. They are designed to take the punishment that the gearbox will put it through. PERIOD.
As I put my face in my hands, it's another oil thread!
Please do some research about oils or a link to the info that supports your opinion.
Not being an ***, just saying.
Senior Member
Back Marker
Joined: Nov 2012
Posts: 211
From: Henderson, NV
Believe me or not, I personally don't give a rats ***, it's your bike (mis)treat it how you wish, after all, it's your repair bill, not mine.
Senior Member
Back Marker
Joined: Nov 2012
Posts: 211
From: Henderson, NV
If all oils are the same, try running 3-in-1 oil in your bike and see how far it gets.
Senior Member
Superstock
Joined: Oct 2011
Posts: 344
I also have some experience in racing going back to the 60's, when I was a wee lad. Having been in on numerous dyno sessions, trying different oils as well as various other components
if you are not using a motorcycle specific oil, you are leaving horsepower and reliability behind.
Hell, the marked improvement in the way the bike shifts should be enough to prove the point.
Believe me or not, I personally don't give a rats ***, it's your bike (mis)treat it how you wish, after all, it's your repair bill, not mine.
Seasoned tech
SuperSport
Joined: Apr 2012
Posts: 576
From: Issaquah, WA
Automotive oils, whether synthetic or non synthetic, are NOT designed to be run in motorcycle engines. They do not have the same polymers to keep the gears in the transmission from beating them into submission within a few hundred miles. THAT is why there are motorcycle specific oils. They are designed to take the punishment that the gearbox will put it through. PERIOD.
Also back to the initial topic oil filters aren't all created the same even if they have the same dimensions and thread size. As stated Fram filters are JUNK! I generally run factory Honda filters or the K&N's that my buddy carries at his shop. Filter media can be vastly different in filtering ability and flow, either of which can adversely affect your engine.
Junior Member
Squid
Joined: Jul 2015
Posts: 5
I can't believe no one really jumped on this thread especially since it's in the middle of PMS for lots of folks! 
What a great fourm.
On the VFR forum, there is a research engineer who lives right up the road from me (in Texas terms) who eats and sleeps engine oil properties. He runs dyno's 24/7 for a research instititue and analyzes chemical breakdown specimens of all kinds of oils.
I'll save you TONS of reading from that site: mobil one gold cap (used to be a red cap) 15w/50 synthetic. Their m/c specific oils do return better analysis but not enough to justify the much higher cost. He's **** enough to run the V-twin formula tho'. He also says a very good and much cheaper alternative is shell rotella synthetic (about $12 a jug at wallyworld). Don't use energy conserving (EC) oils. Change frequently. That's it.
Another story that "sold" me on mobil one years ago. I personally know a former owner of a top level open wheel auto (not formula 1) US race team who's main sponsor was an oil company. Late at night, they would poor mobil one (zero weight!) into the company's yellow (hint, hint) empties to use in public!
What a great fourm.On the VFR forum, there is a research engineer who lives right up the road from me (in Texas terms) who eats and sleeps engine oil properties. He runs dyno's 24/7 for a research instititue and analyzes chemical breakdown specimens of all kinds of oils.
I'll save you TONS of reading from that site: mobil one gold cap (used to be a red cap) 15w/50 synthetic. Their m/c specific oils do return better analysis but not enough to justify the much higher cost. He's **** enough to run the V-twin formula tho'. He also says a very good and much cheaper alternative is shell rotella synthetic (about $12 a jug at wallyworld). Don't use energy conserving (EC) oils. Change frequently. That's it.
Another story that "sold" me on mobil one years ago. I personally know a former owner of a top level open wheel auto (not formula 1) US race team who's main sponsor was an oil company. Late at night, they would poor mobil one (zero weight!) into the company's yellow (hint, hint) empties to use in public!
Absolutely ressurecting this thread from the dead, but I just wanted to say how delighted I am at the switch to 15w-50 mobil 1 with the high zinc. I couldn't find the 'gold cap' stuff at walmart so I bought the regular stuff. I can even BELIEVE how different shifting feels. Solid yet smooth. What a difference, all due to oil weight. Also started using a bosch 3300. Top notch stuff.
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roisman
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