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how can you tell if the carbs have been re-jetted?

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Old Dec 21, 2008 | 06:02 AM
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how can you tell if the carbs have been re-jetted?

Hello,
What is the easiest way to know if the bike has been re-jetted? I bought the bike used, and I am the 3rd owner. It has a set of D&D pipes and the heads were ported. I don't want to run lean.
Thank you very much.
Darren
Old Dec 21, 2008 | 06:09 AM
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Take the main jets out and see what size they are. It should say on them.
Old Dec 21, 2008 | 06:18 AM
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Dip them in some A-200 Pyrinate?
Old Dec 21, 2008 | 07:23 AM
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Originally Posted by LineArrayNut
if they itch really bad, then you know!
And that was the second time I got crabs...

Sorry I'm a big fan of Supertroopers.
Old Dec 21, 2008 | 07:30 AM
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175 and 178 main jets are stock. The stock slow jet is a 45. The stock needle is not adjustable. Aftermarket needles have grooves and a removable clip to adjust the height of the needle in the slide. The screws for the float bowls and tops of the carb have phillips heads. Buggered screws or screws with allen heads are circumstantial evidence of rejetting.
Sometimes you're playing to a tough audience on this forum.
Old Dec 21, 2008 | 08:05 AM
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Originally Posted by comedo
175 and 178 main jets are stock. The stock slow jet is a 45. The stock needle is not adjustable. Aftermarket needles have grooves and a removable clip to adjust the height of the needle in the slide. The screws for the float bowls and tops of the carb have phillips heads. Buggered screws or screws with allen heads are circumstantial evidence of rejetting.
Sometimes you're playing to a tough audience on this forum.
Yeah that's what I meant to say...

We're not a tough audience, just a little ADD...
Old Dec 21, 2008 | 08:06 AM
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Originally Posted by comedo
The stock needle is not adjustable. Aftermarket needles have grooves and a removable clip to adjust the height of the needle in the slide.
BINGO, if all your tiring to do is ID if the carbs have been jetted.. Remove the seat and tank, remove the top cover of the rear carb, pull the slide out and check the needle.. if it's stock chances are great it's all stock. simple and quick.
Old Dec 21, 2008 | 09:41 AM
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checking for jetting work

Hello,
Thank you. I am at the step where I pulled out the diaphragm, I cant tell from the manual how to see the top part of the needle jet. the pic in the manual shows it out but I can't tell how to dis-assemble it. Any tips appreciated.
Thank you.
Darren
Old Dec 21, 2008 | 09:47 AM
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I got it. Thanks.
Old Dec 21, 2008 | 11:47 AM
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Now I am into the jets: The rear main looks like 180. I still have to check the front. It may have been jetted. What numbers are you running?
The needle looks stock. Is it possible to richen the stock needle by putting washers on it before sliding it in? I think there was 1 washer in the back and maybe 2 up front?
Thank you.
Old Dec 21, 2008 | 12:34 PM
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Originally Posted by dsevans
Now I am into the jets: The rear main looks like 180. I still have to check the front. It may have been jetted. What numbers are you running?
The needle looks stock. Is it possible to richen the stock needle by putting washers on it before sliding it in? I think there was 1 washer in the back and maybe 2 up front?
Thank you.
yes, it's called shimming the jets, and actually a recommended thing by some.
Old Dec 21, 2008 | 03:58 PM
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dsevans;

Stock main jets, at least for all North American VTRs were 175f and 178r so a 180 in the rear would be a replacement.

If you still have any question about the needles, here's a link to the instructions which come with the Dynojet kit.

http://www.dynojet.com/pdf/1185.pdf

Also note that in stock configuration there is a washer. With the Dynojet kit you retain that washer plus install another provided in the kit.
1185.pdf (application/pdf Object)
Old Dec 21, 2008 | 04:15 PM
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it was re-jetted

Thanks for the help and quick replys. There was a 180 rear and 178 front. With 45 on each for slow. The needles were stock (1 believe,) b ecause there was no ring/clip to adjust. There were 2 washers on the front and the back.
From what I read, this seems reasonable. I have the D&D pipes but stock filter. The plugs looked good when I changed them recently. And the bike seems to run well. I do have the pop on decel (closed throttle.) I just flipped the PAIR reed. We will see.
Darren
Old Dec 21, 2008 | 04:19 PM
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Remember, if it ain't broke, don't fix it.
Old Dec 21, 2008 | 05:42 PM
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I would guess that if your bike doesn't have the occasional "carb farts", it has been rejetted.
Old Dec 22, 2008 | 01:28 AM
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Sounds to me like a "poor man's" rejet. I'd call it a smart man's rejet.

Move the 178 to the front carb, put a 180 in the rear. Up one size for each cylinder. Lift the needles with washers. Total expenditure about $5-$6. If it runs good, I'd leave it alone.
Old Dec 24, 2008 | 01:22 PM
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thanks forthe help.

Invaluable. I did learn alot. I have not had a crbed bike since 1999, and really never did anything with it.
It does run real good. I didn't want to run it lean. So I wanted to make sure. Looks good.
Plus with the carbs off. I removed the front cam cover fairly easily to do the ccts. Along with lubing the choke and throttle cables from the back end.
Very cool bike. Ive only had it since October.
Thanks again.
Darren
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