Wanted to rent; engine mount tool
07-26-2011, 08:02 PM
#1
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Wanted to rent; engine mount tool
Hey guys so as I posted I am going to attempt a motor swap. Does anyone have the honda-specific tool to do it that they can rent me? Any help would really...help
07-26-2011, 11:42 PM
#2
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I assume you are talking about the motor mount nuts with the 4 grooves in them? If you are good with a grinder they can be made from standard sockets. I had to do that for an F4i i once had. I still have the socket that fits the larger nut, i am not sure if i had the smaller one, but i will look. I have seen dismantlers just use a hammer and screw driver to drive them off also. Not the best option but it works i guess.
07-27-2011, 08:48 AM
#3
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I have a set of the proper tools you can borrow. It will probably be $10-$15 to ship them. I would just ask you to cover shipping both ways. Send me a PM.
It is important to get the torque set correctly on the mounts, so you don't distort the chassis.
It is important to get the torque set correctly on the mounts, so you don't distort the chassis.
07-27-2011, 09:23 AM
#4
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I didn't put mine in fully correctly, but with the tool available I am confident in my setup. You can do most of it with this:
It's just a socket that I ground down- don't remember which size, but I can look it up if you need...
When you go through mounting the bolts as per the manual, the first steps are easy, you just tighten each castle nut to a specific ft-lb in a specific order. It's a pretty low one, too (something like 4). Then you need to hold the castle nut as you tighten down the alan bolt in the center of it. This is the part that uses the special tool- it has an extension that allows you to hold the bolt with one wrench and stick an alan wrench in through the middle of it to tighten the inner bolt.
From what I could tell, the first torquing of the castle nuts is setting up proper spacing for the frame. In other words, you set the ft-lbs to twist the frame to it's proper shape. The alan bolts are actually the ones that bolt the motor to the frame.
The theory that I worked off of was that if the castle nuts do not move, then the spacing stays the same. So I tightened the castle nuts to their proper torque. As I said, you're supposed to then hold these nuts in place so they don't move, but I just watched them as I torqued the alan bolt in the middle (as I did not have the special tool). Not a one of them moved a bit, so I think I got by without the special tool. I'm not saying this is the right way to do it or that it will work all the time, and I'm sure Tweety or 8541Hawk or someone may have a reason not to do this, but it's another option.
Oh, and you'll probably have to hang the frame from the ceiling or put the motor on a jack as the rear wheel/swingarm are bolted to the motor, and have to come off. Good luck!
Last edited by 7moore7; 07-27-2011 at 09:30 AM.
07-27-2011, 03:15 PM
#5
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Getting them off is no problem, it's the getting them back on to the correct torque that's tricky. There are only four, but you can noticeably feel the frame flex to it's proper shape as you tighten the nuts.
I didn't put mine in fully correctly, but with the tool available I am confident in my setup. You can do most of it with this:
It's just a socket that I ground down- don't remember which size, but I can look it up if you need...
When you go through mounting the bolts as per the manual, the first steps are easy, you just tighten each castle nut to a specific ft-lb in a specific order. It's a pretty low one, too (something like 4). Then you need to hold the castle nut as you tighten down the alan bolt in the center of it. This is the part that uses the special tool- it has an extension that allows you to hold the bolt with one wrench and stick an alan wrench in through the middle of it to tighten the inner bolt.
From what I could tell, the first torquing of the castle nuts is setting up proper spacing for the frame. In other words, you set the ft-lbs to twist the frame to it's proper shape. The alan bolts are actually the ones that bolt the motor to the frame.
The theory that I worked off of was that if the castle nuts do not move, then the spacing stays the same. So I tightened the castle nuts to their proper torque. As I said, you're supposed to then hold these nuts in place so they don't move, but I just watched them as I torqued the alan bolt in the middle (as I did not have the special tool). Not a one of them moved a bit, so I think I got by without the special tool. I'm not saying this is the right way to do it or that it will work all the time, and I'm sure Tweety or 8541Hawk or someone may have a reason not to do this, but it's another option.
Oh, and you'll probably have to hang the frame from the ceiling or put the motor on a jack as the rear wheel/swingarm are bolted to the motor, and have to come off. Good luck!
I didn't put mine in fully correctly, but with the tool available I am confident in my setup. You can do most of it with this:
It's just a socket that I ground down- don't remember which size, but I can look it up if you need...
When you go through mounting the bolts as per the manual, the first steps are easy, you just tighten each castle nut to a specific ft-lb in a specific order. It's a pretty low one, too (something like 4). Then you need to hold the castle nut as you tighten down the alan bolt in the center of it. This is the part that uses the special tool- it has an extension that allows you to hold the bolt with one wrench and stick an alan wrench in through the middle of it to tighten the inner bolt.
From what I could tell, the first torquing of the castle nuts is setting up proper spacing for the frame. In other words, you set the ft-lbs to twist the frame to it's proper shape. The alan bolts are actually the ones that bolt the motor to the frame.
The theory that I worked off of was that if the castle nuts do not move, then the spacing stays the same. So I tightened the castle nuts to their proper torque. As I said, you're supposed to then hold these nuts in place so they don't move, but I just watched them as I torqued the alan bolt in the middle (as I did not have the special tool). Not a one of them moved a bit, so I think I got by without the special tool. I'm not saying this is the right way to do it or that it will work all the time, and I'm sure Tweety or 8541Hawk or someone may have a reason not to do this, but it's another option.
Oh, and you'll probably have to hang the frame from the ceiling or put the motor on a jack as the rear wheel/swingarm are bolted to the motor, and have to come off. Good luck!
Or, you could take that nut, weld on a flat piece of iron, and another socket for the wrench, and stick the allen key through it, just like the honda specific tool... That works...
There are pictures floating about from someone else making that tool... I just copied it...
07-27-2011, 03:27 PM
#6
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True... you posted one in my thread when I was taking the bike apart .
https://www.superhawkforum.com/forum...build-cbw1-jpg
Welding is still on the list of things to learn for me...
. https://www.superhawkforum.com/forum...build-cbw1-jpg
Welding is still on the list of things to learn for me...
07-30-2011, 06:51 AM
#7
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Ive dismantled my SH plenty of times... if you have a grinder save your money and make the tools out of sockets (thats what I use)... as for an engine stand a stack of scrap wood works for me but if you cant to get fancy you can make one out of wood thats a bit more stable and pretty...
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