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Are vortex front sprockets any good?

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Old Jan 22, 2011 | 11:36 PM
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Are vortex front sprockets any good?

I recently bought a vortex 3523-16t front sprocket, are they any good?
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Old Jan 23, 2011 | 12:12 AM
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The steel fronts are ok. The rear Al sprockets are worthless as the wear out almost instantly though. I've had a Al Vortex rear go in under 4k miles where I get a bit over 15k miles out of a Al AFAM.
Old Jan 23, 2011 | 07:22 AM
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Originally Posted by 8541Hawk
I've had a Al Vortex rear go in under 4k miles...
Ditto on that. Not impressed by Vortex as a result.
Old Jan 23, 2011 | 08:31 AM
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Originally Posted by 8541Hawk
The steel fronts are ok. The rear Al sprockets are worthless as the wear out almost instantly though. I've had a Al Vortex rear go in under 4k miles where I get a bit over 15k miles out of a Al AFAM.
Originally Posted by divingindaytona
Ditto on that. Not impressed by Vortex as a result.
But Vortex front sprockets are good?
What about the holes are they going to weaken the sprocket and flex, or am I just being paranoid.
Old Jan 23, 2011 | 09:51 AM
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Originally Posted by justinity
But Vortex front sprockets are good?
What about the holes are they going to weaken the sprocket and flex, or am I just being paranoid.
You are just being paranoid...... the sprocket is fine and will function with no issues. The holes are to lighten it a bit.
Old Jan 23, 2011 | 01:42 PM
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+1
See post #13 in your original chain and sprocket thread.
Old Jan 23, 2011 | 01:50 PM
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Originally Posted by justinity
But Vortex front sprockets are good?
What about the holes are they going to weaken the sprocket and flex, or am I just being paranoid.
Not only paranoid, but poorly informed... Go read up on material science... There is a reason why you lighten material with round holes and round holes only if you care about more than how it looks...

Those holes actually makes no difference to the strength of that sprocket since a round hole distributes forces different than any irregular shape does... And since they make it lighter at the same time, well... Win-win...
Old Jan 23, 2011 | 02:46 PM
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Originally Posted by VTRsurfer
+1
See post #13 in your original chain and sprocket thread.
Thanks I forgot I even asked that question.
I've had a lot on my mind recently.


Originally Posted by 8541Hawk
You are just being paranoid...... the sprocket is fine and will function with no issues. The holes are to lighten it a bit.
Cool now I gained 20 HP.

Originally Posted by Tweety
Not only paranoid, but poorly informed... Go read up on material science... There is a reason why you lighten material with round holes and round holes only if you care about more than how it looks...

Those holes actually makes no difference to the strength of that sprocket since a round hole distributes forces different than any irregular shape does... And since they make it lighter at the same time, well... Win-win...
Nice to know.
I wonder if the holes breaks up wind drag like a golf ball. IDK
Old Jan 23, 2011 | 02:49 PM
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What brand front sprockets are good?
Old Jan 23, 2011 | 02:54 PM
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Originally Posted by justinity
Cool now I gained 20 HP.
More like 0.0020 HP, but hey...I'd install a front sprocket with holes. I think it looks cool, and it lightens rotating mass.
Old Jan 23, 2011 | 02:58 PM
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Originally Posted by justinity
What brand front sprockets are good?
That Vortex looks good to me. The lightening holes even have beveled edges. That's an extra machining step, so a sign of good quality IMO
Old Jan 23, 2011 | 03:06 PM
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Ok Thanks VTRsurfer
What chain rivet tool do you use? If you use one at all.
I was looking at the motion pro.. Is there a cheaper tool that you would recommend?
Old Jan 23, 2011 | 03:57 PM
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Originally Posted by justinity
Ok Thanks VTRsurfer
What chain rivet tool do you use? If you use one at all.
I was looking at the motion pro.. Is there a cheaper tool that you would recommend?
I used the DID tool that I got from a friend for a good price. I've heard the Motion Pro is good though.

Just take your time and follow the directions. Shops should rent those tools out. They could make some money at it, but I guess they'd rather charge an arm and a leg to do it for you. My dealer wanted something like $250 labor. An independent shop quoted me $90. I decided to buy the tool and do it myself...tool pays for itself. My previous 3 bikes were all shaft drive, so this was my first experience with a chain.

Just be careful that you "stake" the master link pins as described in the manual. It's not that hard with the tool. Take your time.

Then again, 8541Hawk says he's done it with a ball bearing and a c-clamp.
Old Jan 23, 2011 | 04:31 PM
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Originally Posted by VTRsurfer
Then again, 8541Hawk says he's done it with a ball bearing and a c-clamp.
Well there are times in life when you need to improvise but I use my RK chain tool if I have any choice in the matter.

Yes the "c" clamp thing was a bitch but it did work though in no way would I recommend it to anyone.
Old Jan 23, 2011 | 05:00 PM
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Originally Posted by 8541Hawk
Well there are times in life when you need to improvise but I use my RK chain tool if I have any choice in the matter.

Yes the "c" clamp thing was a bitch but it did work though in no way would I recommend it to anyone.
When I was teaching, many of my students came from 3rd world countries, and they didn't always follow my instructions. But if it came out okay and no safety rules were violated, I'd say, "I can't argue with success".

But we had just about everything, in a toolroom damn near as big as my house, stocked with Snap-on's best. And a full-time toolman as well.
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