trailering where to strap it down?
10-15-2009, 03:03 PM
#1
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trailering where to strap it down?
I'm trailering my bike out of town on sunday and I need to know where to strap her down and how to do it. I'm using my 8 foot wide atv trailer for this and I wouldn't mind seeing pictures of how you guys strapped your bikes down and also some information to make sure I don't loose it on the hiway. Lol. Thanks.
10-15-2009, 03:21 PM
#2
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Sorry about the lack of pictures but...
I use soft ties threaded up through the bottom of the fairing and laced around the triple tree and then connected a set of ratcheting tie downs to them.
I've also used the lower yoke of the triple tree as a tie down point. Gotta love a set of soft straps.
I use soft ties threaded up through the bottom of the fairing and laced around the triple tree and then connected a set of ratcheting tie downs to them.
I've also used the lower yoke of the triple tree as a tie down point. Gotta love a set of soft straps.
10-15-2009, 03:41 PM
#5
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Go to a bike shop or Cycle Gear and buy a Canyon Dancer.. nylon webbing deal that attaches to the bars,, with loops to attach the tie downs.. If not that, I make long soft loops from car seatbelts (you can get them from body shops or dealerships when they get replaced do to use or crash) make um about 2.5 ft long with a 4" loop at each end.. That allows you to girth hitch them around the bars or triple clams.. And then I use a second set at the sub frame rails under the seat.
If this is more than a temp trailer set up,,, Google "bike shoe" Front wheel goes in, a cantilever top hoops comes down over the tire, and the bike is locked in... NOT going any ware. I have traveled across the US with my dirt bikes and street bikes locked down in a shoe in the back of my toy hauler, and 20ft open trailer. Best securing device there is.. but, they have to be very well mounted.. and they pricy. If you weld on E-track devices, and run a length of E-track along the trailer in the right spot. You can remove the shoes and still have use of the trailer floor for other things.
If this is more than a temp trailer set up,,, Google "bike shoe" Front wheel goes in, a cantilever top hoops comes down over the tire, and the bike is locked in... NOT going any ware. I have traveled across the US with my dirt bikes and street bikes locked down in a shoe in the back of my toy hauler, and 20ft open trailer. Best securing device there is.. but, they have to be very well mounted.. and they pricy. If you weld on E-track devices, and run a length of E-track along the trailer in the right spot. You can remove the shoes and still have use of the trailer floor for other things.
10-15-2009, 04:09 PM
#6
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Through the frame below the tank, and over the triples compressing the forks, using normal tie down straps. (making sure the metal ratchets aren't touching anything)
It ain't made of glass ya know.
It ain't made of glass ya know.
Last edited by lazn; 10-15-2009 at 04:12 PM.
10-15-2009, 05:49 PM
#9
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+10000, failed tech at my first track day because of it. but he knew right away what it was from, so we just moved it back into place and stuck some safety wire on it
10-15-2009, 05:51 PM
#10
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For my race bikes I have only ever used soft ties on the triples. Then ratcheting tie downs. Canyon dancers are good but cost a little more. You can get a wheel chock from JCwhitney or harbor freight for $9. Just shoot some screws into the wood. Definitely dont trailer it w/o some kind of front wheel chock. Even if you screw 2x4s to hold the front wheel steady. The front wheel is the crucial point to keep the bike on the trailer
10-15-2009, 06:02 PM
#12
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8 foot wide is quite wide, you won't need to go inside the fairings like in a 4 ft trailer.
You need a lot of clamping force toward fork compression, try to narrow the anchors point to form an angle of at least 45 degree.
I hauled mine with a snow blower and they tried to mate during the cruise...so stay away from rusty steel.
You need a lot of clamping force toward fork compression, try to narrow the anchors point to form an angle of at least 45 degree.
I hauled mine with a snow blower and they tried to mate during the cruise...so stay away from rusty steel.
10-15-2009, 06:11 PM
#13
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alright thanks, ive got a smaller trailer but the bastard has no tie down points on it so i cant use it. worst case scenario ill make my buddy sit on it as i trailer it, haha
10-15-2009, 06:24 PM
#14
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agreed with gboezio, try to narrow the tie down points--3-4 ft eye to eye is pretty much the sweet spot for me so it doesnt really touch the inner fairing.
btw im a HUGE fan of using your lower triple. loop the whole strap around it on each side so that both hooks use eyes on the trailer.
also, want to mention that i used to only use canyon dancer v2's...hate them after i started using the lower triple, they screw up your grips and your bar ends. i had to super glue 1 grip in a pinch before a track day last month, also still have a bent bar end because of the CDv2...
im attaching a pic, not a very good one, but hopefully you get the idea...it was from when i went to ca superbike school on saturday. used a harbor freight folding 4x8' trailer. performed like a champ. never really ever had a nervous moment while hauling it to streets of willow.
i know this is a pic of an rc51, but if anything, its a crap ton easier with the superhawk, the fairing is a bit shorter giving more access to the triple clamp. i hope my efforts help...
edit: i used 2 tie down points with 2 straps as a safety measure. using 2 points with 1 strap is perfectly good too, i usually do it that way when i have 2 bikes on the trailer as to not overload all the points. if you're REALLY paranoid, wrap the hooks with a bunch of duct tape so they dont slip out of the eye. even better, go to home depot and get some heavy duty carbiners in the chain section to use in conjunction or in lieu of the normal hooks. this way, you're for SURE locked in.
btw im a HUGE fan of using your lower triple. loop the whole strap around it on each side so that both hooks use eyes on the trailer.
also, want to mention that i used to only use canyon dancer v2's...hate them after i started using the lower triple, they screw up your grips and your bar ends. i had to super glue 1 grip in a pinch before a track day last month, also still have a bent bar end because of the CDv2...
im attaching a pic, not a very good one, but hopefully you get the idea...it was from when i went to ca superbike school on saturday. used a harbor freight folding 4x8' trailer. performed like a champ. never really ever had a nervous moment while hauling it to streets of willow.
i know this is a pic of an rc51, but if anything, its a crap ton easier with the superhawk, the fairing is a bit shorter giving more access to the triple clamp. i hope my efforts help...
edit: i used 2 tie down points with 2 straps as a safety measure. using 2 points with 1 strap is perfectly good too, i usually do it that way when i have 2 bikes on the trailer as to not overload all the points. if you're REALLY paranoid, wrap the hooks with a bunch of duct tape so they dont slip out of the eye. even better, go to home depot and get some heavy duty carbiners in the chain section to use in conjunction or in lieu of the normal hooks. this way, you're for SURE locked in.
Last edited by thefauxnarchist; 10-15-2009 at 06:27 PM.
10-15-2009, 06:37 PM
#15
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one other thing, after strapping everything down, i put the kickstand UP, i dont like the idea of it jabbing into my bikes frame if the trailer somehow takes a huge dip or bump in the road. do a very thorough job of tying down and trust your work, plain and simple.
edit: ok ok, one other thing, i usually run an extra tie down on the rear end just for peace of mind. nothing major, just 1 strap with some tension going through the passenger pegs. its more for just in case the bike tips over that it wont fall off the trailer while moving.
edit: ok ok, one other thing, i usually run an extra tie down on the rear end just for peace of mind. nothing major, just 1 strap with some tension going through the passenger pegs. its more for just in case the bike tips over that it wont fall off the trailer while moving.
10-15-2009, 08:43 PM
#16
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After multiple trips to Daytona, Barber, Road America, Mosport, Mid-O, etc., we've found that the key to damage free trailering is to make the contact patch, of the tires to the trailer, as immobile as possible. Front straps pulling down and forward, rear straps pulling down and towards the back. It's not neccessary to compress the forks to the limit. Ratchet straps work much better than the cinch type. A front wheel chock is a must to locate the front end, which is the key to arriving safely. Some will argue to put it in gear, I personally think that that puts unneeded stress on the trans. The alternate way to tie a bike down, is to secure at the fork legs and let the bike's suspension work as it normally would (BMW method) while locating/securing the rear wheel. Check after 10 miles or so and at every gas stop until you arrive.
10-16-2009, 05:04 AM
#17
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ive only got an hour and a bit to get to where im going. im gonna pue a couple of 2x4s on either side of the front tire and screw them down just to make sure she doesnt sway. i know it sounds dumb but being new to the bike world, whats the triple and at what point of it am i attaching the straps? can someone snap a quick pic for me where ti tie it from there. 
10-16-2009, 05:04 AM
#18
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What you will need:
- Brace on trailer to keep front wheel from turning: ex; Pingle wheel chock(google it).
- 1 canyon dancer 2.
- 4 cinch style straps.
- 2 soft straps.
- 4 eyebolt tiedown points on trailer.
Place front wheel in wheel chock(or similar support), install canyon dancer on handle bars, attach one strap to each end of canyon dancer, keep bike up right with kickstand up, attach soft strap to rear footpeg mount and add cinch strap, do not pull so tight that you would cause the front wheel to come out of wheel chock. Now your bike is secure to go anywhere.
- Brace on trailer to keep front wheel from turning: ex; Pingle wheel chock(google it).
- 1 canyon dancer 2.
- 4 cinch style straps.
- 2 soft straps.
- 4 eyebolt tiedown points on trailer.
Place front wheel in wheel chock(or similar support), install canyon dancer on handle bars, attach one strap to each end of canyon dancer, keep bike up right with kickstand up, attach soft strap to rear footpeg mount and add cinch strap, do not pull so tight that you would cause the front wheel to come out of wheel chock. Now your bike is secure to go anywhere.
10-16-2009, 07:13 AM
#19
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uchi, be sure to put something in FRONT of the front wheel too, so you can ratchet pressure forward, not just side to side.
this is a pic of the lower triple clamp (i know, its off an rc model, but its the same thing in real life)
this is a pic of the lower triple clamp (i know, its off an rc model, but its the same thing in real life)
10-16-2009, 01:58 PM
#21
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awsome thanks for all the info. i picked up a couple of soft tie straps today. im gonna hit up our local automotive place and see if i can find a cheap wheel chock to keep the bike from rolling forward and ill screw a couple of 2x4's beside the wheel onces its on there to keep it from shifting side to side. im gonna secure the rear aswell just to be safe. i wanted to use the brackets where the rear footpegs go but they just dont seem to put any real trust into me so im gonna o whats mentioned above and tie the 2 rear straps to the frame under the seat. lets hope i make the trip and dont loose the bike, lol
10-16-2009, 03:12 PM
#22
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Whatever you don't cheap out on securing your bikes! Take care.
awsome thanks for all the info. i picked up a couple of soft tie straps today. im gonna hit up our local automotive place and see if i can find a cheap wheel chock to keep the bike from rolling forward and ill screw a couple of 2x4's beside the wheel onces its on there to keep it from shifting side to side. im gonna secure the rear aswell just to be safe. i wanted to use the brackets where the rear footpegs go but they just dont seem to put any real trust into me so im gonna o whats mentioned above and tie the 2 rear straps to the frame under the seat. lets hope i make the trip and dont loose the bike, lol
10-16-2009, 05:32 PM
#24
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Canyon Dancer is definitely the way to go. To prevent your grips from being damaged or disturbed, slide a short 1-1/4" x approximately 5" long PVC hose over top of the grips before sliding the Canyon Dancer over the grips. Works like a charm. Chock the front wheel and slightly angle your tie downs forward and approximately 30 degrees out to the side and compress the front end virtually all the way. If doing this solo, the tie down pull strap should be facing back towards the bars. Move the bike from side to side as you pull the tie down tight. Use short ties on the side of the seat sub frame just behind the tank and cinched down the the rear with tie downs. Their is no need to compress the rear very much, it is only to keep the bike from moving around. I've had 3 bikes on a trailer with grips within inches of the other bikes tank and if cinched down properly, the bike does not move. The trailer, well that is another story. Make sure your tires are in good condition and pumped to the maximum recommended pressure. Ensure the bearings are greased and properly tightened. You're ready to go without any worries.
P.S. I hope you're trailering the bike to a track day. You don't want to be labeled a trailer queen. LOL
P.S. I hope you're trailering the bike to a track day. You don't want to be labeled a trailer queen. LOL
10-16-2009, 09:52 PM
#25
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+1 on tying down the rear as well. I use Ancra tie downs (and climbing slings if the hard parts on the tie downs are in danger of scratching something). I've trailered and used the back of my pick-up, both with no problems. Make sure you secure the safety chain properly.
10-17-2009, 12:50 AM
#26
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definitely make sure u get that safety chain set up correctly--its definitely the last thing you want to fail on you. buy some $3 locking chain links from home depot, theyre designed for it.
canyon dancer 1's = mess your grips
canyon dancer 2's = mess your bar ends
canyon dancer 1's = mess your grips
canyon dancer 2's = mess your bar ends
10-17-2009, 06:51 AM
#27
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thanks for all the info. im gonna see what the local bike shop has today that can help me with this ordeal
as for trailer queen, man i wish i could ride it. bikes going on a trip out of town. i traded my downhill bike to a guy whos doing alot of work for me, brake up grade, ccts jet kit and some other stuff ive thrown his way and id love to ride the bike there but right now 3 things are preventing that. first i started getting a bad rattle last rid eout, thought the ccts were about to give out, turns out that for some reason my chain developed an assload of slack. were talking like 4 inches of slack and its rubbing the left side exhaust pipe, not a big deal i can fix it but the other guy said hed take care of it. second just put on my jardine high mounts and the bike was running like *** from the cold weather as it is and i dont wanna chance damaging something because of the cold and the now leaner running engine, and lastly the bitch started leaking coolant yesterday from somewhere anytime i tap the throttle. so all of that is gonna get sorted out when the bike gets up to where its going. very annoying situation.
as for trailer queen, man i wish i could ride it. bikes going on a trip out of town. i traded my downhill bike to a guy whos doing alot of work for me, brake up grade, ccts jet kit and some other stuff ive thrown his way and id love to ride the bike there but right now 3 things are preventing that. first i started getting a bad rattle last rid eout, thought the ccts were about to give out, turns out that for some reason my chain developed an assload of slack. were talking like 4 inches of slack and its rubbing the left side exhaust pipe, not a big deal i can fix it but the other guy said hed take care of it. second just put on my jardine high mounts and the bike was running like *** from the cold weather as it is and i dont wanna chance damaging something because of the cold and the now leaner running engine, and lastly the bitch started leaking coolant yesterday from somewhere anytime i tap the throttle. so all of that is gonna get sorted out when the bike gets up to where its going. very annoying situation.
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