TheRezyReb

This is a sharkskins belly pan, anyone know of one with more ground clearance? Did this on an exit ramp Sunday morning, didn't feel like I was that for over. Guess it was better to find out there vs my upcoming trackday.

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gssbmm

I have the same problem with mine. but it's the only fluid retaining lower thats made so if you plan on raceing or they require it for your track day your stuck. you can try raiseing the ride height that stoped it for me but I also have a penske shock so it wasn't hard. one tip if your goiong to load it in a truck just take it off or you well go all the way thrugh it.

Tweety

Have your raised your forklegs? Or is that with stock rideheight?

TheRezyReb

Front ride hieght is stock and I've raised the rear.

RCVTR

Unfortunately, that's part of the deal.
If you have stock fork springs, you probably have too much front sag, which makes it worse.

If it wasn't for the fairing, you'd probably rub your exhaust header on the track. If you can make some spacers for the fork springs, you'll be able to raise the front, which will help you get the proper front sag, but the fork springs are soft, so you get a lot of midcorner compression. New springs are the ticket. Even then you'll rub your bellypan at the track.

The full race bikes had modified oil sumps to allow the exhaust header to run closer to the centerline. But it's not practical for most people to consider that much modification.

BTW, the kickstand will rub on the other side.

cliby

I agree. check your sag measurements and address the front fork issues first. With RC front end (even dropped) and the rear slightly raised I do not have issues scraping anything at least not in street riding.

TheRezyReb

The front is set at the Sport Rider mags suggested settings, ghuess I can stiff'n the preload a little more.

cliby

just measure it first so we can see where you are at - unload the front completely by putting a jack under the engine or lift the front end and measure the amount of free slider showing (dust cap to bottom triple. Then again, without rider. then finally with you on the bike sitting and balancing (or hang onto the side of the garage after settling the forks) and have someon else measure. Tell us what you get. How much do you weigh anyway?

gssbmm

honestly if your talking about riding on the track I would have a suspention guy set up the bike with you for your wieght and for the track your riding. I know my times have come way down once I stoped trying to spend money making the bike faster or lighter and spent the time on suspention setup. even the differance between track to track is huge. those sport rider setting are reallllll basic. 1 or 2 mm make a big diferance on the track

RCVTR

It's important to realize that changing the preload will change the amount of sag in the suspension, but it will not change suspension stiffness. A different spring rate is required to change stiffness.

If you wan to get serious about it, send them to Greg. He'll install the right springs for your rider weight and change the damper valving to match. Well worth the money. then you'll have a baseline setup that you can fine tune to your liking.

Hawkrider

Will it? Remember we have progressive springs.

RCVTR

Yes, but, there is only one static load on the spring. And that's the weight of the front end of the motorcycle. There is a static sag already, so when you screw in the preload adjuster, it raises the front end of the bike. It can't apply a larger force, unless the forks are topped out. The only force that compresses the spring is the weight of the bike resting on it.

Hawkrider

Very good! Somebody's been studying!

RCVTR is correct. Remember that adjusting preload of suspension ONLY changes the ride height.

RCVTR

It's a very common misconception - almost universal.

You can only preload the spring if the fork or shock is fully extended.

Yes, I'm still studying!

TheRezyReb

ok, so adjust preload, raise front? No effect on suspension? Eleminates benefit of rear spacer?

killer5280

Preload adjustment doesn't affect sag at all, just ride height. Right? Until you guys had this little conversation I hadn't thought about this, but it makes perfect sense because the weight of the bike on the forks overcomes any preload built into the fork. I see lots of long time motorcycle guys who don't understand this concept. I guess, until a few days ago, I was one of them.

So, yes, Rezy, if you increase fork spring preload you raise front ride height and mitigate the effects of raising the rear. Decrease spring preload and lower front ride height, which has the same effect as raising the fork tubes in the triples. Neither adjustment will change sag (although I guess it could change sag a little due to a slight change in front/rear weight bias) or suspension stiffness, which is done with a change in spring rate.

TheRezyReb

Thanks, I got it, but has anyone overcome the problem that I'm having? Got the bike set up the way I like it, handles great(for stock). Now I want to be able to ride it to at least my abilaties, but damned. What to do?

killer5280

Stiffer fork springs are the only real solution. Trying to get the stock springs to work will always be a compromise.

RCVTR

It's called preload becasue the spring is partially compressed before a load is applied.

If the suspension has sag, the length of the spring is the same for a given load, but where the vehicle rides in the range of suspension travel for a given load is different. With less sag, it takes a higher force to fully compress the suspension, so it does have an effect similar to stiffening, however, the spring rate (lbs/inch of travel) does not change.

So you can control the ride height for a given load and also the chassis attitude with preload. If you raise the front, you will nee to raise the rear as well to maintain the same attitude. But that attitude is only for the static position. Braking force, driving force corneriing force, etc. will change that attitude and it is dependant upon relative spring rates and rear suspension linkage.

I would recommend fork springs with a valving adjustment and a fork brace. Then set the static sag. Problem solved.

RCVTR

A few more thoughts:

I think the main problem you are having is the amount of suspension compression while cornering. It may seem impossible that you are leaned over far enough to drag the fairing with the bike sitting on the garage floor. But cornereing adds a big load and compresses the suspension a lot.

If you change the preload in the front and rise it 5 mm. The front suspension will also ride 5mm higher while cornering (well that's not quite true with VTR springs, because they have a progressive spring rate). But with stiffer springs you will get less change in suspension height while cornering.

killer5280

Also remember to stay on the gas while leaned over. Chopping the throttle or trailing throttle during cornering will cause ground clearance problems.