he did state he had 3 lift holes not including the hole for the needle and did confirm he has a dynojet kit installed which would make me assume he has the dynojet springs in there so add factory springs to the price list... And I would also start by fillin in 1 lift hole on each slide seeing as factory has 2 in each.

And I also believe on the carb setup thread 7moore7 posts a step by step with detailed pics starting with the airbox down to the carbs.

 

Ok gentlemen here is the new update again thanks for all the help with my SH I pulled the carbs again and the float bowls my jets are 170 front and 175 rear both with #50 pilots I have Dynojet springs and needles are set on fourth notch from the top front needle has one shim and rear needle has two lol. I'm guessing this is why I'm feeling such a loss of power so now I will be purchasing the 178 main jet for the front and #48 pilots along with stock needles and air filter does this sound about right ?

 

Sounds like a good start. The different springs are an issue, along with the different needle (different taper than stock).

If i were you i would order those parts also, then sell your whole "Dynojet kit" to someone to recoup some money. There are those who would buy it, some think they are worth having, so it's worth a try.

James

 

Ok somehow I cross threaded one of my fuel screws it doesn't look like it damaged the aluminum fuel bowl threads but the threads on the brass fuel screw are chewed up what size thread cleaner do I need to use in that hole does anyone know ? Or tap set.

 

You could take the other good fuel screw to a hardware store and match it up with a metric nut to try and determine the thread. Or....throw a new one on the parts pile, Or...buy thumb screws from Jack Flash on here. You're definitely way out in left field with the jetting. Pilots way too rich, Dyno Jet needles will be rich, mains way too lean, huge hole in the airbox and a K&N.


Remember the richer main jet goes in the rear carb. Also the needles have different part numbers front and rear. I would buy a 178 and a 180 mains. If you have the short dynojet slide springs (6" long vs about 10" long) and a slide hole those may add some mid-range richness too. The bike will be a smooth runner once you get it anywhere close to stock settings - just wait! Don't forget you'll need a way to synchronize the carbs too, once you're done. It's worth the effort to develop a way to do it yourself, that way if you become an incurable carb tinkerer, you can keep them straight - just another item that makes the bike run better.

 

I could get you that info later today when I get home. LMK if you figure it out before then.

 

I can help with making an easy carb sync gauge too.

James

 

Little bit of track here, however it would be a good idea to check for exhaust leaks while your fettling your bike!

 

Threads are M3x.5

 

As for the carb sync tool you can make one with a meter stick, about 7 feet of clear hose, a few zip ties and some ATF or marvel mystery oil... should cost $10 or less, thats what I use, I can post pics later if desired.

And have we mentioned you need a second vacuum fitting for the cyclinder head if there isnt one already installed...

 

After using the stick method for many years, i've converted to the "two bottle-impossible to suck up any fluid" method

James

 

thats why I use marvel mystery oil in mine

 

I am interested in your method, do you have write up? if not text me pics when you can...

I'm always a fan of double and triple checkin work with multiple methods.