That's a weird thing to remove- sounds almost like one of those "My turn signals came off in the crash, but I didn't want them on there anyway" type of things.

The damper has been discussed a little bit lately, so that's why it's in my head, but you may want to see why the owner installed it. The reason is that this bike generally doesn't need a damper unless there are extreme geometry changes or some underlying suspension problem. It could just be that all of his buddies with a ducati bought one and he followed suit, but it could also be that the frame was tweaked/damaged,

Look for frame damage, test it and if it feels unstable at any speed be cautious, ask the owner about the bike...

 

What needs to be checked/fixed with the cam chain tensioners? What is the R/R?
I did find another one, a '98 with 23000 on the clock only its 200+ miles from me.
Dudley

 

I think finding a used bike that has been well taken care of is the prime target. If I were buying a Superhawk I would look for a senior rider who has decided to hang up his ranging bull. CCT's, Jets, Exhaust, if you're lucky some suspension could all be part of the package. If you truly want a Superhawk I would be tempted to run a "Superhawk Wanted" ad on CL. Lots of guys still watch the ads and there are "garage queens" to be had. Especially while Minnesota is still in the Tundra. I used to live in Deephaven.

 

The OEM auto CCTs are known to fail randomly. Not in huge numbers, but enough to be a worry.

So either convert them to manual, or replace them with manual CCTs. Why? because if you are one of the unlucky tiny % that have a failure, the engine top end is toast for sure, and maybe the pistons too. It's cheap insurance to keep the motor lasting longer. ($6 + work for conversion, $110 + work for replace with APE branded ones)

The R/R (regulator rectifier, also called a voltage regulator) on basically all Honda bikes of this generation sucks. It will eventually fail. The 2002 will have an updated one vs the 98, that will get it a few more years service, but it too will eventually fail. It is best to replace it before it fails so that it doesn't take out other electrical things. A popular swap is to a Yamaha part that is MOSFET based rather than diode based, the Yamaha R/R is usually ~$40 off ebay and a very easy swap.

 

Errr. . .R/R is 'regulator/rectifier'. I takes the current from the stator and flops it over three times to make it DC and under 15 volts. Provides the correct current to run the bike's electrics and charge the battery.

Cam chains drive the cam shafts, there is a unit on each of them that keeps them from flopping around inappropriately and causing expensive engine damage.

My suggestion is to hang out at bike night down to the local burger barn and make friends with a rider with gray hair who would be willing to show you where the rocks are to get you across the motorcycling stream you want to cross. A flesh and blood mentor will get you further, faster than a forum will. We like and welcome you here but there is only so much we can pass on knowing so little about you.

 

Were the valve clearances inspected/adjusted at 16,000 miles as specified by Honda? If not, having a shop do that can be a hefty chunk of change especially when added on to the purchase cost of the bike...something to consider. Does he have service records?

 

I appreciate the help. A little about me. 65 yrs old, retired, MSF instructor, own three bikes now, have owned around 55, have a shop in my garage and do 99% of my maintenance. I, however, know absolutely nothing about the VTR 1000. Thats why my basic questions. I do not want to buy a pig in a poke.
Thanks
Dudley

 

OK so the story is that you can swap out the cam chain tensioners pretty easily. The regulator is an easy swap too (you can buy aftermarket or use an R1 unit). There are threads on this forum about both (do a search) but this is a pretty bulletproof bike. Dont overpay since they are not expensive at the ages you are looking at. As always avoid wheelie squid owners.