EngineNoO9

I want to order these today and try and replace the cct's this Sat. I can't wait around for it to get done... I don't know which need to be replaced and well my other thread noone pointed me in the right direction... Only thread I've found useful just says you can get the gaskets for cheap.... :-\ Specifically a part # so I can just put it into servicehonda parts window to order would kick ***. oh plus. am I missing something but I thought to do this you had to drain the coolant... but the maintenance manual doesn't mention that... (prepping myself to do this)

99Hawk

You don't need to drain the coolant .... and you don't need new gaskets. The gaskets ain't cheap anyway...
Just remove the cover, clean the gasket and surface (clean the head surface with something not made of metal like a piece of plexiglass) ... when replacing the cover and gasket you may want to put a small (small) dab of silicone gasket sealer at the sharp corners (where you'll see some old gasket sealer from the factory)

EngineNoO9

are there other directions? I'm reading a lot and there's a lot of stuff and lots of stuff that doesn't make sense... I see I have to get it to TDC and the manual doesn't say that and well I'm lost... I'm beginning to get a little discouraged and thinking that I'm gonna have the shop do it unless I can find some better instructions/how-to :-\

99Hawk

Yes, you DO need to get TDC but it's really not difficult.
You can very easily remove the rear cyl valve cover to visually confirm TDC for the rear and you won't need to remove the front valve cover to confirm it's TDC.
You say you have the Haynes manual? Page 2-16 will show you how to get TDC for the rear cyl....
With the rear cover off you'll be able to see the cam lobes. Turn the crank CCW to align the 'RT' mark in the sight window.
IF THE REAR CAM LOBES are pointed 'up and out' then you have TDC on the rear. IF they are pointed 'down and in' then you just need to rotate the crank 360° CCW to align the 'RT' mark again and you will have TDC on the rear.
Now you can remove and replace the CCT for the rear...

Next - to do the front is easier since once you have the rear TDC confirmed all you have to do is rotate the crank CCW 450° ( 1.25 turns) and the 'FT' mark will align in the sight window (do this slowly and get it right the first time). You now have TDC on the front. Go ahead and swap out your CCT on the front... (more cramped for space there but easy with the air box out)

You're done.... no shop required ... money saved ... now spend that 'shop fee' money on something you needed anyway .... :-?

EngineNoO9

alright thanks. I'll order them and hopefully get them quickly

EngineNoO9

oh, real quick. so all I have to do is set to TDC for each cylinder, then pull the old tensioner, and put the new one in? that simple?

99Hawk

I'm not clear on the CCT type you are replacing. Are you getting Honda CCTs or APE manual CCTs?

The manual CCTs will probably give you better peace of mind, no spring to break, simple to adjust, basically when they are in you don't need to give them a second thought.

In either case, yes, once the cyl is at TDC there is no valve spring tension on the cam chain so you can just pull the old one and replace it. On the Honda CCT you'll need to have the plunger retracted before you put it in. A key is used to crank the plunger back in. A new Honda CCT comes with a key - or you can make one easily from some scrap sheet metal (as outlined in the Haynes manual).

EngineNoO9

I'm getting the newer "fixed" oem Honda CCT's

Hawkrider

If you want to make it easy on yourself, you don't need to get to TDC on the cylinders. Just take 2 nylon tie wraps and wrap them tightly around each chain and sprocket to ensure they don't skip teeth. When the CCTs are installed just snip them off and you're done with that one. Move on to the next.

EngineNoO9

does anyone have pics of the install?