I bet your really popular on the race track with that approach...

*Don't mind the oil-spill... just tuning my engine!*

 

The only problem with the idiot lights, is that most people STILL DON'T STOP!!!!!! She had the light come on 10 minutes from home and drove it the rest of the way!!!! I was like__________________ when she told me. I think I just stared at her like she was a massive idiot, wearing a sign declaring that she was dumber then all, shouting abbagabbadooba.

Miracle #1-she made it home
Miracle #2-car still runs
Miacle #3- she doesn't understand why it currently burns oil
Miracle #4- People like her are even given the opportunity to step foot into a car, let alone given a goddamn license to drive.

 

#4 still baffles me... Some people should not be allowed near mechanical objects... If it has more than one moving part it requires a brain to operate it...

 

I know, like pens. I have some students that should be allowed near pens. Far too many moving parts. Plus, they just draw *****'s on the wall in the bathroom.

 

sorry ... I'll reply when my eyes stop watering...

 

It must be cold and no riding going on cuz you guys are feeling punchy...man it's gonna be a long Winter I fear
Rick C.

 

18" inches of white nasty stuff...

Better put Hawkrider on high alert...

 

And now for something completely different;

The nominal oil refill capacity for the VTR is actually 4.1 U.S. quarts. That assumes a fresh oil filter and a really complete drain. But just dumping in 4.1 quarts may be too much.

I put in about 3.5 qts, start the engine to fill the oil filter, shut it down, let it settle and check the sight glass. I add enough oil to get the level midway between the the high and low marks on the sight glass.

At least on my bike, if I fill to the top mark, oil gets blown into the airbox on my next ride.

 

I took a 2 hr. ride here in So.Ca. this morning. It was so cold (about 55 degrees) I had to put on a sweatshirt between my T-shirt and the Cortech Magnum. I had to close the vents on my helmet. If it gets into the 40s, I might have to put my longjohns on. But being a hardcore year round rider, I'm willing to do whatever it takes!

 

On the subject of oil, here is a very interesting write-up on different oils and filters that can be used for motorcycles, http://www.calsci.com/motorcycleinfo/Consumables.html

I am personally trying the Purolator Pure One PL14610 and Mobil-1 Synthetic 15w-50.

To save some time, here is the link to the oil filter reference page, http://www.calsci.com/motorcycleinfo/FilterXRef.html

I found this to be some excellent reading about what is available outside of the oil/filters the bike shops carry.

 

I use the Pure One filters. The PL14612 and PL14610 are the same except for length.

The "12" will work with the little chin fairing. The "10" requires running without the chin fairing or buzzing it with a Dremel etc.

BTW, Pep Boys sells the Pure Ones for under $6. Many others sell them for about twice as much.

 

Its worth it to trim the chin fairing for the extra capacity of the PL14612, best filter available for the dosh.

BTW, after warming it up, I seem to need more than 4.1 qts but I hit the kill button and crank it over (with plug and filter installed) and drain about 3 times before refilling with the M1 15w-50 and the Purolator. In cold weather I run Rotella T syn 5w-40. When the engines cold, before starting I also hit the kill and crank it over 5 times to get oil upstairs. Sometimes it backfires and wakes the neighbors, which has the side benefit of blowing outs out some carbon.

 

skokievtr;

I agree with you except the PL14610 is the larger/greater capacity one. I like the way my bike looks without the plastic and run without it so filter length isn't an issue.

 

Ooops, my bad. I like the chin spoiler, as it keeps rocks and such off the filter and crankcase. I have scraped it while leaned over under braking. I do not like the AM lower fairings because with a full fairing the VTR blends in with the crowd. A lady that is half naked is much more sexy. Maybe I'm dating myself but the VTR holds up well as the classic it will become (similar to the original Duc 916), though the new KTM 1200 superbike has taken the sharp-creased "folded" look to new hieghts. Other than the brakes and somewhat lacking suspension (relatively easily fixed), the VTR is as light and powerful while still better looking than anything comparable yesterday or today. I'm talking sporty sport touring not repliracer. Yes, I know the tank is too small but that is why I modded a spare up to 5.2 gallons for road trips.

 

Manual says:

After draining 3.7L or 3.9 US qts
After draining w/filter change 3.9L or 4.1 US qts
After disassembly 4.5L or 4.8 US qts

I go with the manual even though it seems like I'm under filling and just double check the window for the best level and then check window at least once a week

Hope this helps bro!
Rick C.

 

Oh my god, sounds awful. Almost like riding in 20 degree weather in wisconsin. I had to put on LJ's for that. But 55, i just wear my jacket, w mesh gloves. They must not be as tuff in CAL

 

Ha! Having lived in Syracuse and then Minneapolis before I moved here, I knew plenty of guys who bragged about riding half naked at 55 degrees. But then when it got a "few" degrees colder, they hid their bikes in the garage and spent the next 5 months huddled around their heater vents!

Seriously, I used to ride down to 15 degrees. Now if it is under 40, I'm on four wheels.

 

Lot of people here in germany prefer the oil BelRay MC14
or some similar from Motul (not synthetic)

 

Hi All...I assume this topic must have been covered but I could not find any threads....

Anyhow, in racing we use Fully Synthetic as the benefits are huge..Consistent Oil pressure, lower temps, less wear & fewer engine rebuilds, better protection in cold starting etc ...

How does Fully Synthetic impact in the SH twin engine...I hear rumours that FullySynthetic oil is not good for our clutches ??

Your thoughts?

Regards,
Gerrit
www.formulagti.com

 

As long as it doesn't have "friction reducing compounds" that is - long chain molecules - that gumm up the clutch and get torn up in high rpm engines and turn into sludge, full synthetic is still best.

 

nowadays, you can buy Full synthetics that are specially formulates for motorcycle wet clutches.

 

Ok, now that the oil issue is tackled, which is the fastest colour?

 

yellow of course, it needs fewer undercoats thus is lighter and faster.

 

I run full synthetic with no clutch issues so far.

well now they say black is the abscence of color so that must be lighter and therefore faster - I say red though since I own a red one