Oils
03-09-2006, 11:59 AM
#2
Senior Member
SuperBike
Join Date: Sep 2005
Location: Buffalo, NY
Posts: 1,572
Re: oil change
You will have to remove the front plastic cover around the oil filter. I have heard its good to get the bike up to operating temperature, let it cool 5 minutes and then drain the oil and removing the filter - be careful its going to be HOT! Supposedly its gets more particles out of the crankcase... If nothing else it drains faster! Use either a real good conventional oil or a sythetic oil and a name brand filter. I have run mine since 600 miles with synthetic oil.
Rick B
02 SH
Rick B
02 SH
03-09-2006, 02:36 PM
#4
Senior Member
SuperSport
Join Date: Dec 2005
Location: Sunshine Coast, Australia
Posts: 963
Re: oil change
G'day Ali.
Rick is right mate, warm up the bike first. I prefer to go for a short ride to get it to full operating temp, and then drain the oil out.
You should use a new sealing washer on the sump plug, or you can do what I do and anneal it (heat it up, I use a gas torch) and smooth it over with a file or sandpaper before re-installing.
Rick is right mate, warm up the bike first. I prefer to go for a short ride to get it to full operating temp, and then drain the oil out.
You should use a new sealing washer on the sump plug, or you can do what I do and anneal it (heat it up, I use a gas torch) and smooth it over with a file or sandpaper before re-installing.
03-09-2006, 04:14 PM
#6
Senior Member
MotoGP
Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: Gainesville FLA.
Posts: 3,844
I'm using a Walmart supertech filter st7317 which works just as well if not better and it cost a whopping $2.15. There are a couple of threads on this subject, one that's a list of compatible filters. Both recommended and not rec. this guy bought tons of filters cut them in half and looked at all the filtering mech. These have the pressure, thread and length included in the list check it out for the future, I haven't bought a honda filter since. :wink: Oh and the reason to heat it up is it makes the oil thinner so it drains easier and gets more of the dirty oil out. It may bring other particles as well but the main reason is to get as much of the dirty oil as possible. You can never get it all out without flushing it but this way gets most of it.
Here's a link to the oil filter cross ref. https://www.superhawkforum.com/viewtopic.php?t=1987
Here's a link to the oil filter cross ref. https://www.superhawkforum.com/viewtopic.php?t=1987
03-09-2006, 05:07 PM
#8
Senior Member
MotoGP
Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: Gainesville FLA.
Posts: 3,844
Sorry wife was getting pissed....dinner and all. It depends on what the purpose of the oil change is. If it's regular matainence then I'll use Mobil one gold cap. If I'm changing it for a track day and I know I'll change it again after I use something cheaper.
03-09-2006, 06:55 PM
#10
Senior Member
Superstock
Join Date: Apr 2005
Location: Denver, CO
Posts: 281
Re: oil change
Easy.
1. Undo both bolts holding the plastic chin-faring.
a. One is on the right side of the bike when you sit on it and requires a hex wrench (included).
b. The other on the left side is a bolt and requires a socket wrench and an extender and is set straight-into the plastic chin-faring parallel to the oil filter.
2. Warm up the bike a little. If you have a digital guage, 98 degrees is fine, then turn off the bike.
3. The drain bolt is in an unusual place for a motorcycle. It's clearly visable on the SIDE of the oil pan, all the way back on the left side. Place a pan underneath and using a non-included socket wrench with a nice large handle (for extra torque) remove the bolt being extra careful not to lose the washer! If you do, fish it out of the pan.
4. Slide the oil pan to under the oil filter and put a dry rag under where the bolt hole was to catch any remaining drip.
4. Using an oil filter wrench (still not included, though I like to use the rubber-strap kind), remove the oil filter. Goo will ensue.
Note* You can pour a quart of oil thru the works to clear-out dirt and debris and catch it with your pan but this is a bit overkill. Unless you change your oil annually you shouldn't need to do this as the micro-debris will be collected by the new filter.
5. Wipe clean both draining areas.
6. Smear oil around the new filter's rim and hand-tighten it to about as tight as you can by hand which should be around 22 foot-pounds, give or take.
7. Using a torque wrench, reinstall the bolt and washer to the drain plug. Should be around 22-lbs torque or until the bike moves a little when you tug if you don't got one.
8. Insert oil in the cap on the other side of the bike. I recommend Mobil-1 Motorcycle blend without Moly (MX4T 10W-40) but I'm tempted to try Mobile-1 synth (V-Twin 20W-50) because I run hot where I am and I am usually stuck in standstill Denver traffic over 85 degrees F. and doesn't get below 50 deg. F.
9. Wipe everything down one last time and run the engine. It shouldn't leak. If it does, either you went too tight or too loose.
I think the horse is dead, but I'll put pictures on my web page.
1. Undo both bolts holding the plastic chin-faring.
a. One is on the right side of the bike when you sit on it and requires a hex wrench (included).
b. The other on the left side is a bolt and requires a socket wrench and an extender and is set straight-into the plastic chin-faring parallel to the oil filter.
2. Warm up the bike a little. If you have a digital guage, 98 degrees is fine, then turn off the bike.
3. The drain bolt is in an unusual place for a motorcycle. It's clearly visable on the SIDE of the oil pan, all the way back on the left side. Place a pan underneath and using a non-included socket wrench with a nice large handle (for extra torque) remove the bolt being extra careful not to lose the washer! If you do, fish it out of the pan.
4. Slide the oil pan to under the oil filter and put a dry rag under where the bolt hole was to catch any remaining drip.
4. Using an oil filter wrench (still not included, though I like to use the rubber-strap kind), remove the oil filter. Goo will ensue.
Note* You can pour a quart of oil thru the works to clear-out dirt and debris and catch it with your pan but this is a bit overkill. Unless you change your oil annually you shouldn't need to do this as the micro-debris will be collected by the new filter.
5. Wipe clean both draining areas.
6. Smear oil around the new filter's rim and hand-tighten it to about as tight as you can by hand which should be around 22 foot-pounds, give or take.
7. Using a torque wrench, reinstall the bolt and washer to the drain plug. Should be around 22-lbs torque or until the bike moves a little when you tug if you don't got one.
8. Insert oil in the cap on the other side of the bike. I recommend Mobil-1 Motorcycle blend without Moly (MX4T 10W-40) but I'm tempted to try Mobile-1 synth (V-Twin 20W-50) because I run hot where I am and I am usually stuck in standstill Denver traffic over 85 degrees F. and doesn't get below 50 deg. F.
9. Wipe everything down one last time and run the engine. It shouldn't leak. If it does, either you went too tight or too loose.
I think the horse is dead, but I'll put pictures on my web page.
03-27-2006, 08:24 AM
#11
Senior Member
SuperSport
Join Date: Nov 2005
Posts: 547
If you don't have a oil filter wrench, and you are in a bind, you can always use a philips head screwdriver and jab it into the oil filter (you're not going to need it at this point) and then twist. Just beware it will start leaking oil immediately.
I realize this may sound like sarcasm, but I've done this several times on my bikes.
I realize this may sound like sarcasm, but I've done this several times on my bikes.
03-28-2006, 05:23 PM
#16
Senior Member
SuperBike
Join Date: Sep 2005
Location: Buffalo, NY
Posts: 1,572
Re: oil change
On the side of the engine case there is a round hole or window near the bottom that you can see the oil level - it should be within the 2 marks with the bike level - IE not on the kickstand. This hole is on the same side as the oil fill plug. Maybe someone on the list has a pic of that area handy to help you out...
Rick B
02 SH
Rick B
02 SH
03-28-2006, 09:02 PM
#18
Moderate-whore
MotoGP
Join Date: Nov 2005
Location: Leander TX!!
Posts: 9,049
If you don't have a oil filter wrench, and you are in a bind, you can always use a philips head screwdriver and jab it into the oil filter (you're not going to need it at this point) and then twist. Just beware it will start leaking oil immediately.
I realize this may sound like sarcasm, but I've done this several times on my bikes.
I realize this may sound like sarcasm, but I've done this several times on my bikes.
03-29-2006, 07:01 AM
#19
Senior Member
Back Marker
Join Date: Jul 2005
Location: PA
Posts: 127
From the manual:
Start the engine and let it idle for a few minutes.
Stop the engine, support the motorcycle upright on a level surface.
Wait for a few minutes and check that the oild level is between the upper and lower marks in the inspection window.
Start the engine and let it idle for a few minutes.
Stop the engine, support the motorcycle upright on a level surface.
Wait for a few minutes and check that the oild level is between the upper and lower marks in the inspection window.
04-20-2006, 06:58 PM
#21
Member
Squid
Join Date: Apr 2006
Location: Calgary Alberta Canada
Posts: 76
Re: oil change
Just a little tid bit that I heard once at a bike shop. Automotive Synthetic oils can actually wreck wet clutches. If you are intending on running a synthetic, it is recommended to run a motorcycle synthetic. However, the only advantage that Synthetics have is that the molecules don't break down as fast, but it will still get just as dirty, and your filter will get just as plugged... So, they actually recommend running a high quality non-synthetic, and changing in more often. This is what I do, and I find that my bike runs smoother, then when I used to run motorcycle synthetic, and change it later.
08-23-2006, 05:19 PM
#24
Administrator
MotoGP
Join Date: Apr 2006
Location: Kempner, TX
Posts: 4,402
Originally Posted by dustinwild
Just a little tid bit that I heard once at a bike shop. Automotive Synthetic oils can actually wreck wet clutches. If you are intending on running a synthetic, it is recommended to run a motorcycle synthetic. However, the only advantage that Synthetics have is that the molecules don't break down as fast, but it will still get just as dirty, and your filter will get just as plugged... So, they actually recommend running a high quality non-synthetic, and changing in more often. This is what I do, and I find that my bike runs smoother, then when I used to run motorcycle synthetic, and change it later.
If you ask 10 people thier opinion on what is best for oil, you'll get 12 opinions. all different.
Read, search, google, ,,, then make up your OWN mind... There is more conjecture and outright BS in your avarage oil threads then a boys locker room after homecoming.
This thread is going that way now.
08-23-2006, 09:06 PM
#25
Moderate-whore
MotoGP
Join Date: Nov 2005
Location: Leander TX!!
Posts: 9,049
Originally Posted by TXSuperChicken
I HATE oil threads..so I'll say this and stop....
If you ask 10 people thier opinion on what is best for oil, you'll get 12 opinions. all different.
Read, search, google, ,,, then make up your OWN mind... There is more conjecture and outright BS in your avarage oil threads then a boys locker room after homecoming.
This thread is going that way now.
If you ask 10 people thier opinion on what is best for oil, you'll get 12 opinions. all different.
Read, search, google, ,,, then make up your OWN mind... There is more conjecture and outright BS in your avarage oil threads then a boys locker room after homecoming.
This thread is going that way now.
08-24-2006, 07:22 PM
#27
Moderate-whore
MotoGP
Join Date: Nov 2005
Location: Leander TX!!
Posts: 9,049
Originally Posted by Radiaoktiv
been running rotella dino and a super tech filter for about 5k miles now
no complaints, runs and shifts great
no complaints, runs and shifts great
03-13-2007, 07:29 PM
#28
Junior Member
Squid
Join Date: Mar 2007
Location: Columbus, MS
Posts: 25
Oil and Filters
Two excellent articles are available about oil and filters. Check the following links:
http://www.sportrider.com/tech/146_0308_oil/
http://www.calsci.com/motorcycleinfo/Filters.html
I'm using the Purolator Pure One filter PL14612, which I found at Advance Auto Parts. Ironically, it's the same filter that my Nissan Pathfinder uses. As for oil, they also carry Mobil-1 MX4T. As I understand from reading, the synthetic isn't really recommend until after break in.
After this, you should be an expert about oil and filters!
http://www.sportrider.com/tech/146_0308_oil/
http://www.calsci.com/motorcycleinfo/Filters.html
I'm using the Purolator Pure One filter PL14612, which I found at Advance Auto Parts. Ironically, it's the same filter that my Nissan Pathfinder uses. As for oil, they also carry Mobil-1 MX4T. As I understand from reading, the synthetic isn't really recommend until after break in.
After this, you should be an expert about oil and filters!
Oil
