How do i drain my oil?? No drain plug just a filter

 

98-03_VTR1000F_NoRestriction.pdf

VTR1000F Honda Service Manual OCR.pdf

Removed restrictions in the Honda Superhawk (Firestorm) Service Manual PDF and was able to run it through OCR so the manual is now text searchable - Enjoy

 

Yes there is a drain plug... You might want to look again....

 

+1...download and peruse. Then start searching...

 

What year is it? Some years they didn't have plugs to save on costs and Honda figured owners were having problems changing oil themselves anyway.

What you need to do is order a new OEM drain pan gasket. Remove the pan and I usually take a garden hose and spray up into the motor to clean it out a bit. Sometimes I'll run the bike for a couple of minutes to flush the old oil out.

Then re-assemble the oil pan with new gasket and put new oil in. In a pinch I'll cut a gasket out of green printer paper and use that (when the local shop doesn't have any gaskets on hand). Often I'll just pour the old oil through a coffee filter because I don't want to waste resources.

Lately, though, I just drilled a hole in my oil pan the approximate size of a wine cork, then use a cork to plug it. I know it's time to change or filter the oil when the cork is soaked all the way through. This requires pouring a bottle of wine down the drain, though. Good luck!

 

Dear 7moore7,
That was written with such a straight face the poor guy might believe you. It broke me up.
He should be able to find the drain plug on the lower left side of the oil pan just below the drive sprocket. He'll need a 12 mm. wrench or socket to remove it.

 

Post of the year IMO!

 

Personally I liked the subtle bits....like the oil pan gasket.....

 

 

This poor guy never came back.. I hope he was able to find the drain plug.. Someone needs to make a post and stick it about Oil Changes.. Is something so important and you get no were doing a search and when you ask no body wants to talk about it. I did my 1st oil change yesterday and I was worried about doing it wrong. I always paid for someone to do it and they usually charge triple if you want them to use good oil. I went ahead and bought 5 quarts of Mobil 1 synthetic made for sports bike V-twin and a fram oil filter thats way bigger than the little K&N it had.
Some one needs to make a tread with how to do it and how to know how much oil to put in. I read about a guy that put 5 quarts lol and one that did 4.

JON

 

If someone can't figure out how to change thier oil, they shouldn't be changing thier oil.

Edit: I realize that I sound like a jerk, but it's true.

 

Ya gotta start somewhere... Some people don't have great fathers to show them how to do this stuff...

Agreed it should be a stickie, though i don't have the time to contribute.

James

 

Okay, I agree, ya gotta start somewhere. When I can figure out how to post pictures again, I will update this post with pictures.

This is how I do it:

1. Purchase 4 quarts of your favorite oil (Factory Service Manual says Honda GN4 4-stroke oil or equivalent motor oil. API service classification SF or SG. Viscosity SAE 10W-40) and don't forget a filter.

2. Run your motorcycle up to operating temperature (this allows for the most complete removal of oil in the engine). With your motorcycle on its sidestand, place a oil drain pan under the oil pan of your motorcycle and use a 12mm socket or wrench and remove the drain plug. To find the drain plug, look at the left side of the bike (left side of the bike is the side the sidestand is on) and locate the clutch slave cylinder. Now look directly below, all the way to the very bottom of the bike. You will see a bolt. This is your oil drain plug. Pictured in the center of the picture below


3. While the oil is draining from the oil pan, remove your old oil filter and dump the oil from the filter into the oil drain pan.

4. Use a shop rag and clean the surface of the oil pan that the oil filter gasket seals against. Open a quart of oil and dip you finger into the oil. Use this clean oil to wipe onto the black rubber gasket of the new oil filter. Install the oil filter as per directions. (Most oil filters have directions stating how many turns to tighten the oil filter)
-----Tip-----Pour a couple ounces of fresh oil into the new oil filter before installing. Obviously not to much oil, or it will just pour out when you install the filter. Doing this just helps prevent a dry start.

5. Use a shop rag and clean the oil drain plug and also the surface of the oil pan that the drain plug seals against. Install the drain plug and torque it to 22 ft.lbs. or 29 N-m (tighten it pretty good, but don't put your body weight into it or you will strip the threads!)

6. On the right side engine cover is the oil filler cap. Remove this cap. Use a funnel to pour in 4 quarts of oil. Pour them in slowly. The clutch basket is right there and the oil doesn't just pour right in there like water. Once you have all 4 quarts into your engine, get down onto your knees and look on the right engine cover at the very bottom. You will see a sight glass. See the lines to the left and right of the sight glass? You want the amount of oil in your engine to be between those two lines when the bike is balanced. While still on your knees, pull the bike off the sidestand so it is balanced. Having a partner help is recomended, so the bike doesn't fall over on your ***, but this can be done by yourself. If it is between the two lines, then congratulations, you just did your first oil change. (Everyone's bike is different. If it is under the bottom line, then go buy another quart of oil and add untill correct.)







Make sure to write down the date you did your oil change and the mileage on your motorcycle. Start the bike and look for leaks. If all looks well, then take it for a little ride around the block. If everything still looks good, then enjoy your motorcycle until the next oil change!

 

Crux - excellent write up. A lot of us take this basic maint knowledge for granted and forget some folks don't have friends to show this stuff.

May I make a suggestion for an edit to your step 5?

Suggested Add: Before starting oil change go to dealer and pick up a half dozen new aluminum crush washers for the drain plug. Throw out old washer from drain plug and replace with a new one. Save others for future oil changes.

 

In my 26 years of owning vehicles and changing my own oil (always), I have never replaced an oil drain plug washer. Not saying don't do it, just not necessary every time IMO as I've never developed a leak there. Not bustin' ***** crank just sharin' my experience. YMMV

 

Another edit could be oil viscosity or suggest he ask the tech at the parts desk which oil should be used for their Superhawk. I do agree with Crankenfine, nice write up!

 

Oh boy....

 

I figured that would be someone's response and I agree YMMV.

I personally have seen it leak on other vehicles that use an aluminum crush washer. I think using a new one that is undistorted reduces the need to put additional torque on the drain bolt to get a drip free seal. This reduces risk of damaging threads on oil pan and ruining your day. And it costs all of 75 cents to replace.

But there you go, now we can debate favorite oil pan drain plug washer practices...

 

Synthetic oil drain plug washers are the best. If you're still using dino-oil drain plug washers made of material dug from the ground, you're an idiot.

 

If everyone agrees on my simple write up, maybe a sticky for the newbies?

Not sure with other Superhawks, but on mine, the oil drain plug doesn't have a removable washer, even though the service manual says to replace it.

Maybe over the years, with several previous owners torquing the crap out of it, the washer has flattened out and expanded making removal of the washer all but impossible.

I'm with Wolverine on the washer replacement. I have never had one leak. But, I'm not saying not to.

This is why I say to clean the drain plug and sealing surface. Try this... next oil change, put the oil drain plug back in without cleaning it and while torquing it down, you will hear sounds like "sand being crushed". This debris under the washer could possibly create a leak. That's the way I see it anyways. Keep it clean folks!

 

I pretty much fill my filter to the top and lose just a drip. Don't have a washer on this bikes plug, but am thinking about this going all out and performing this mod. Which brand is best?

 

I recommend this filter wrench removal tool...

 

CruxGNZ, Nicely done... It will help someone in the future.. This is one the the best things you can do to your bike and showing someone how to do it helps in so many ways, Ive been riding for over 10 years and I never did an oil change, I always rather pay than mess something up. I just resently started doing my own oil changes, and seen and reading on how to properly do it is more for peace of mind..