I finally got around to making my preload bracket. First time I ever worked with carbon. Bought some aluminum hardware from probolt-usa.com and viola:






I discovered the rubber coating on the preloads line was chaffed because of my previous mount. Nothing serious but needs attention, the shock needs a refresh anyway.

I did buy a piece of carbon big enough to make a few of these. My first attempt @ drilling the holes was less than perfect, I was too close to the edge and some fibers came out the top. But I still have 2 so ...

 

That looks awesome... I thought about going the black hardware route, but was afraid they might scratch/mar... I went the polished stainless route.

Those black bolts look awesome though!!! The bracket looks great too

You gonna powdercoat your passenger rearsets black??

I'm thinking about powdercoating my passenger pegs black, then filing the powder off the peg "nubs", so it looks like the new Ninjas... That would be a winter thing

James

 

No plans for powder right now. If I did my swinger, they would get it for sure.
I was very close to getting the Titanium hardware, wife reeled me back in though. I picked Al for the weight advantage over stainless. I had to be HUGE, lol!! Browsing around ProBolt's website makes you want to start replacing everything with Ti!

 

Looks good. It's hard to tell your bike apart from mikstr's now. Good thing yours is yellow or there'd be no telling.

 

 

Nice man! Looks really good. You had issues with drilling a hole through it? Did you use a unibit?

What did you use to cut and finish the material?

When I had my Ohlins serviced a month or so ago, I removed the remote preload adjuster. Just curious, but do you happen to know what these remote preload adjusters go for?

If I didn't get rid of my remote preload adjuster, I'd buy one from ya.

 

I didn't have any problems drilling the holes. My first go round I tried to drill too close to the edge and some of the fibers popped free from the skinny section. Hard to explain, but I F'd up.
To cut the shape I used my jig saw with a very fine tooth blade, I think it was 24tpi. And I have a disc/belt bench top sander that smoothed up my cut lines. Also connected the shop vac to control dust.

I don't have any guess on the value for a complete unit. I've never seen them for sale separated from the shock. It really comes in handy when I ride 2 up. If I didn't do that I really wouldn't have a need for it.

 

I recently saw this picture of an Ohlins shock that was really given some love. I noticed that the guy replaced the hose for the remote resevoir.

I have no idea how much PSI is inside this shock, but if I order a custom brake line to replace the steel braided crappy old line on my shock, does anyone know if this is possible? I was thinking of contacting Spiegler. They custom made all the lines on my bike.

Since I am mounting the resevoir in a spot that requires me to have to crack the line open to clock the fitting and then recharge the shock, may as well replace the line while I'm at it.

 

Mine is in desperate need or replacement as well.
You will need to have it recharged (nitrogen I believe), so figure on sending it somewhere. Jamie could probably do it...

 

I had this place rebuild and dyno my shock. They are a 45 minute ride from me.
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I am hoping to ride there, fix the hose (swap to a new one, or just clock the existing banjo fitting), then have them recharge it while the shock is still on the bike. Not sure if they can do that or not. I should've done this in the first place, I am going to send them a email and ask them about using a brake line as a replacement. I'll let you know what they say.

 

Should be no problem. I wish I had someone that close!

 

Wolverine I am curious as to what drill you used to drill the composite material that caused it to disbond the way you explained.

A standard drill bit will generally cause this in composite material because it's more of a chewing motion verses drilling because of the angle of the tip and the speed / cutting edge on composites.

Standard rule of thumb is 2 times the diameter of the hole from the center point of the hole is what you want for edge distance. When dealing with most materials.

I was a process specialist in a bond shop when I worked for Lufthansa and have seen splintering like you described with less than 1d edge margins which looks like what you have. Generally it's caused by not using the proper bit.

A composite bit is completely different than most other bits because it's designed to bore / sand then cut.

 

A step bit/unibit works great with FRP and Carbon.

 

A step bit is a good option for doing home projects (forbidden in aviation but still good none the less as long as the steps are larger then overall thickness of the part.

A decent 8 faucet drill is the best option for plastic and composites due to the angle, 4 flutes with 8 faucets and less agressive cutting edge for the price. A good spade bit works decent too as long as speed is controlled.

Some of the longer step cutters can get pricey fast.

 

I got a message back from TSE. They can recharge the shock on the bike, and they will do it for $20. They said that the shocks are charged with Nitrogen to 14bars or 203psi. That is a lot more than I thought.

I will contact Speigler and see if they can make me a line that's okay living at that PSI. If it is the same as my custom rear line, it will be ~$50. Maybe they can give a discount for having two made? That is, if you want to get a new line from Speigler as well Wolverine. Let me ask 'em and I'll let you know what they say.

 

Charging it is the easy part..Heck i can do that for forum members at my cost plus shipping.


BUT replacing the line does not equal just recharging. You will introduce air into a sealed system,,,after the new line is installed, the shock will need to have the air cycled through and out and THEN the shock is purged and filled with dry nitrogen. I do it with a vacuum system
some shops and almost all home wrenches will do it by hand.

 

Oh man, I'd like to but I honestly used up all my moto funds on the Duc.

How much we looking @ Erik for you to install/charge?

And I thought I put a link up of the video I used as a guide for cutting/drilling the carbon. It was a good one... let me see if I can find it.

 

Here it is. 10:19 will get you to the drilling.

 

I pledge $20 to help buy Wolverine a new line for his shock in consideration of all the hard mod work he does for us.

Except for fixing the active topics, of course.