New and Nervous
09-11-2013, 08:25 AM
#1
Junior Member
Squid
Thread Starter
Join Date: Sep 2013
Location: Monticello, MN
Posts: 19
New and Nervous
Well, it begins......
Background: Laid my 02 triumph Sprint down about 2 months ago. Totaled the bike, I walked away. (Not to preach here, but leather with armor, gloves and a good helmet saved a LOT of rash and recovery)
Now: I just purchased a VTR1000 last night. I've had my eye on it, and have done quite a bit of 'research' about its strengths and weaknesses, and went ahead and purchased it. Paid a little more than Nada, but with the extras, and the 'super twin' experience, I thought it was worth it.
Thoughts: WOW.
As I do NOT have insurance on it yet, the drive home was mello, and I wasn't able to make the dual Jaradines bark. However, I was able to take the freeway, and see how it handles streetriding. I was impressed. Even with the smaller front fairing, wind displacement was GREAT. No buffeting, easy handling around semi's, sticks to where you put it.
Questions:
Everything...Tell me everything I need to know about a 99 VTR1000. The pro's, con's and reasonable mods to make this experience even better.
Glad to be here!
Background: Laid my 02 triumph Sprint down about 2 months ago. Totaled the bike, I walked away. (Not to preach here, but leather with armor, gloves and a good helmet saved a LOT of rash and recovery)
Now: I just purchased a VTR1000 last night. I've had my eye on it, and have done quite a bit of 'research' about its strengths and weaknesses, and went ahead and purchased it. Paid a little more than Nada, but with the extras, and the 'super twin' experience, I thought it was worth it.
Thoughts: WOW.
As I do NOT have insurance on it yet, the drive home was mello, and I wasn't able to make the dual Jaradines bark. However, I was able to take the freeway, and see how it handles streetriding. I was impressed. Even with the smaller front fairing, wind displacement was GREAT. No buffeting, easy handling around semi's, sticks to where you put it.
Questions:
Everything...Tell me everything I need to know about a 99 VTR1000. The pro's, con's and reasonable mods to make this experience even better.
Glad to be here!
09-11-2013, 09:21 AM
#2
Senior Member
Superstock
Join Date: Apr 2011
Location: Edwards AFB, CA
Posts: 491
Welcome! Glad to hear that you walked away from your last lay down and are still able to ride. ATGATT is the only way. Now: In the search bar type in R/R and MCCT. OR Just search the pages of tech mods. Lots of great info people on here willing to help you out but searching will bring you the info quicker than posting a question.
The R/R and the Manual Cam Chain Tensioners are going to be the first things you will want to replace next to any normal wear items. Again, Welcome.
The R/R and the Manual Cam Chain Tensioners are going to be the first things you will want to replace next to any normal wear items. Again, Welcome.
09-11-2013, 09:22 AM
#3
Senior Member
Superstock
Join Date: Jul 2013
Location: Rome, GA
Posts: 458
Stiffer fork springs are also a plus as the bike is notoriously under sprung in the front end but not necessary for casual street riding. really the Manual CCT's and Mosfet R/R are the only "needs" the bike has. Everything else is user preference to suit the bike to each particular riders needs. It would be nice if there was a larger fuel tank available for the bike, but alas, the airbox takes up most of the available gas tank space
09-11-2013, 11:31 AM
#4
Senior Member
Superstock
Join Date: Apr 2013
Location: Seattle
Posts: 250
The small fuel tank is why I'm going down 2 teeth on the new back sprocket.
I'm also going to install VFR bars, donated by my other bike- it's getting heli-bars that are a smidge taller, so there's a little bit of hand-me-down going on there.
Then the usual suspects, it's already been said about the CCT and R/R 'musts'.
Post up your location, let's see some pics, and Welcome aboard!!
I'm also going to install VFR bars, donated by my other bike- it's getting heli-bars that are a smidge taller, so there's a little bit of hand-me-down going on there.
Then the usual suspects, it's already been said about the CCT and R/R 'musts'.
Post up your location, let's see some pics, and Welcome aboard!!
09-11-2013, 04:15 PM
#6
SportTouring
Superstock
Join Date: Aug 2006
Location: Hawaii
Posts: 274
+3-(R/R mosfet and new CCTs)
Aloha, and welcome aboard.
Don't get to go on the forum much nowadays but would like to confirm with a +3 on the two initial posts.
For someone new to the S/H I would agree on the R/R (mosfet) and mostly the MCCT
or new OEM CCT. Would go with the Cam Chain Tensioners first. Peace of mind, less
costly possible outcomes from inattention to them. R/R goes out well lets just say from
experience, a good workout.
Before I finally changed my CCTs to MCCTS I acquired two front heads and one rear
(just in case). Never had to use them but just for insurance. Now I have such a
better feeling while riding(as far as the ccts go). (less worry in the back of my mind)
Read up on all the wealth of info from the site. Do the mandatory(or should I say)
search. Then if questions, post. Lots of very knowledgable and friendly members.
I learned so much from this forum. I know you will too.
ATGATT and Ride Well...
Aloha, and welcome aboard.
Don't get to go on the forum much nowadays but would like to confirm with a +3 on the two initial posts.
For someone new to the S/H I would agree on the R/R (mosfet) and mostly the MCCT
or new OEM CCT. Would go with the Cam Chain Tensioners first. Peace of mind, less
costly possible outcomes from inattention to them. R/R goes out well lets just say from
experience, a good workout.
Before I finally changed my CCTs to MCCTS I acquired two front heads and one rear
(just in case). Never had to use them but just for insurance. Now I have such a
better feeling while riding(as far as the ccts go). (less worry in the back of my mind)
Read up on all the wealth of info from the site. Do the mandatory(or should I say)
search. Then if questions, post. Lots of very knowledgable and friendly members.
I learned so much from this forum. I know you will too.
ATGATT and Ride Well...
09-11-2013, 06:10 PM
#7
Senior Member
SuperBike
Join Date: Oct 2007
Location: Menifee, CA
Posts: 1,082
The small fuel tank is why I'm going down 2 teeth on the new back sprocket.
I'm also going to install VFR bars, donated by my other bike- it's getting heli-bars that are a smidge taller, so there's a little bit of hand-me-down going on there.
Then the usual suspects, it's already been said about the CCT and R/R 'musts'.
Post up your location, let's see some pics, and Welcome aboard!!
I'm also going to install VFR bars, donated by my other bike- it's getting heli-bars that are a smidge taller, so there's a little bit of hand-me-down going on there.
Then the usual suspects, it's already been said about the CCT and R/R 'musts'.
Post up your location, let's see some pics, and Welcome aboard!!
The old rule of thumb is to run the largest C/S sprocket the bike (primary drive and transmission) will pull!
09-11-2013, 06:53 PM
#8
Senior Member
MotoGP
Join Date: Jul 2007
Location: NYC
Posts: 5,033
What year and mileage is your new bike? Welcome to the forum.
For sure change the regulator rectfier. My 2nd one just went and push starting these beasts is no picnic. You will want to get an eastern beaver Connectors
connector since 99% of failures are plug corrosion related.
I recommend an R1 unit for cheap availability and easy install.
This bike is hyper sensitive to worn tires so handling woes can be that.
Godspeed.
For sure change the regulator rectfier. My 2nd one just went and push starting these beasts is no picnic. You will want to get an eastern beaver Connectors
connector since 99% of failures are plug corrosion related.
I recommend an R1 unit for cheap availability and easy install.
This bike is hyper sensitive to worn tires so handling woes can be that.
Godspeed.
09-11-2013, 06:55 PM
#9
Senior Member
SuperSport
Join Date: Apr 2013
Posts: 972
Instead of going down 2 teeth on the rear sprocket why not try a 17T countershaft sprocket? It's probably cheaper and would give @ the same results and I for one would be interested to hear how it goes.
The old rule of thumb is to run the largest C/S sprocket the bike (primary drive and transmission) will pull!
The old rule of thumb is to run the largest C/S sprocket the bike (primary drive and transmission) will pull!
09-11-2013, 07:57 PM
#10
Senior Member
MotoGP
Join Date: Jul 2007
Location: NYC
Posts: 5,033
Jerryh, what hrca is saying is that going up on the front sprocket is the way that is easier on the chain as well as being easier to do. As a third perk it will alter the wheelbase less.
The rear sprocket radius is way softer than the front so front is where all the stress and heat is generated. One more tooth lessens the strain. 2 off the rear wont make any difference wear wise.
The rear sprocket radius is way softer than the front so front is where all the stress and heat is generated. One more tooth lessens the strain. 2 off the rear wont make any difference wear wise.
09-11-2013, 08:05 PM
#11
Junior Member
Squid
Join Date: Aug 2012
Posts: 21
Install a Coerce Fork brace. Makes the front more predictable then ever before. I had mine fork springs replaced to 0.85. Rear shock replaced with jamie's F4i conversion. now its a dream to ride. +one on the worn tyres. my diablo gave me the rear slide when its half worn on the edge. replaced with PR3.
09-11-2013, 09:10 PM
#12
Senior Member
SuperBike
Join Date: Oct 2007
Location: Menifee, CA
Posts: 1,082
SunsetSuper, I don't want to get you in the weeds but without knowing how you ride I would say stick with R/R and cam chain tensioners. I do agree that steel braided brake lines are required on all bikes.
I also agree with fork springs. If you weigh more than 130lbs the springs are wrong. They are relatively cheap and easy to replace, search for DMR for all of your suspension needs.
PS
The motor is under stressed and will last forever with routine maintenance, we have members pushing 100K.
I also agree with fork springs. If you weigh more than 130lbs the springs are wrong. They are relatively cheap and easy to replace, search for DMR for all of your suspension needs.
PS
The motor is under stressed and will last forever with routine maintenance, we have members pushing 100K.
Last edited by HRCA#1; 09-11-2013 at 09:12 PM.
09-11-2013, 09:59 PM
#13
Senior Member
Back Marker
Join Date: May 2009
Location: Pac NW
Posts: 213
For help with the forks and shock contact Jamie at Daugherty Motorsports - Motorcycle Suspension Performance and Modification
09-12-2013, 09:10 AM
#15
Junior Member
Squid
Thread Starter
Join Date: Sep 2013
Location: Monticello, MN
Posts: 19
Thanks.
I really appreciate everyone's warm welcome, and reasonable 'required' updates. They are on the list, and a part of the upcoming budget.
More info: It has a stage 2 jet kit, and Jaradine Dual High Mount Exhaust, with 23,000 miles.
Went on 160 mile ride, and fell in love...(wife is used to it).
What other 'gems' should I consider to make it even better?
-Sprocket change?
-Any timing or TPS aftermarket trinkets?
I've read lots of past posts, and will continue to get questions answered there first, before bothering the group.
Finally got some pics:
More info: It has a stage 2 jet kit, and Jaradine Dual High Mount Exhaust, with 23,000 miles.
Went on 160 mile ride, and fell in love...(wife is used to it).
What other 'gems' should I consider to make it even better?
-Sprocket change?
-Any timing or TPS aftermarket trinkets?
I've read lots of past posts, and will continue to get questions answered there first, before bothering the group.
Finally got some pics:
09-12-2013, 07:03 PM
#17
Senior Member
SuperSport
Join Date: Apr 2013
Posts: 972
Jerryh, what hrca is saying is that going up on the front sprocket is the way that is easier on the chain as well as being easier to do. As a third perk it will alter the wheelbase less.
The rear sprocket radius is way softer than the front so front is where all the stress and heat is generated. One more tooth lessens the strain. 2 off the rear wont make any difference wear wise.
The rear sprocket radius is way softer than the front so front is where all the stress and heat is generated. One more tooth lessens the strain. 2 off the rear wont make any difference wear wise.
09-12-2013, 07:05 PM
#18
Senior Member
SuperSport
Join Date: Apr 2013
Posts: 972
I really appreciate everyone's warm welcome, and reasonable 'required' updates. They are on the list, and a part of the upcoming budget.
More info: It has a stage 2 jet kit, and Jaradine Dual High Mount Exhaust, with 23,000 miles.
Went on 160 mile ride, and fell in love...(wife is used to it).
What other 'gems' should I consider to make it even better?
-Sprocket change?
-Any timing or TPS aftermarket trinkets?
I've read lots of past posts, and will continue to get questions answered there first, before bothering the group.
Finally got some pics:
More info: It has a stage 2 jet kit, and Jaradine Dual High Mount Exhaust, with 23,000 miles.
Went on 160 mile ride, and fell in love...(wife is used to it).
What other 'gems' should I consider to make it even better?
-Sprocket change?
-Any timing or TPS aftermarket trinkets?
I've read lots of past posts, and will continue to get questions answered there first, before bothering the group.
Finally got some pics:
09-12-2013, 07:53 PM
#19
Senior Member
Superstock
Join Date: Oct 2009
Location: MN
Posts: 325
hey! another guy from MN, awesome!
i live in the twin cities but am currently living up north in lutsen, if you want to go on a SICK ride come up and ill show you hwy 1... the hawk eats it up
welcome to the forum and search early and often
i live in the twin cities but am currently living up north in lutsen, if you want to go on a SICK ride come up and ill show you hwy 1... the hawk eats it up
welcome to the forum and search early and often
09-23-2013, 05:33 PM
#21
Senior Member
MotoGP
Join Date: Jul 2010
Location: Phoenix, AZ
Posts: 3,869
I don't want to say this is wrong, but it's like buying a life jacket before taking a bath. If you have the ability to swap out a whole motor head or three, then you definitely have the ability to remove the valve covers and spin the crank a few times to make sure the MCCT's are working before starting the bike.
09-23-2013, 10:59 PM
#22
SportTouring
Superstock
Join Date: Aug 2006
Location: Hawaii
Posts: 274
I don't want to say this is wrong, but it's like buying a life jacket before taking a bath. If you have the ability to swap out a whole motor head or three, then you definitely have the ability to remove the valve covers and spin the crank a few times to make sure the MCCT's are working before starting the bike.
great as the mainland. I wanted to be able to get back on the road should
I have a mishap. I also was not so inclined to have installed the heads myself. Just having the part available and getting help to put it in should the need arise. It was just being paranoid about the possibility.
Now with the help of the forum and a little more confidence(along with the factory manuel), I would probably be able to change out the heads if I needed to. But insurance is just that, just in case...
Anyone need a head, or two?
Ride Well...
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