I bought some Valvoline Moto Specific oil. 2 quarts of 10w-40 and 2 quarts of 20w-50 are going in. I plan on running about 2000k per oil change from now on. After I reach 8000k, I will switch to full synthetic (per Honda mechanic). The oil was 3.99 per quart at AutoZone. That's a cheap price for piece of mind.

Bought a couple oil filters at Wal-Mart for under 3 bux a piece. They arte actually a bit larger than stock. I also bought some DOT-4 brake fluid for the clutch and brakes.

Bought 3 liters of Honda brand engine coolant from the dealer. At 20-25 bux for 3 liters it wasn't cheap, but it won't be changed for another 2 years. so what the hell, get the right stuff.

Then of course a bottle of SeaFoam for the gas and a lil' bit for the crankcase before I change the oil!

I LOVE this maintenance crap!!!



Unfortunately Mother Nature is a real ***** sometimes...

 

Oh and I also bought the sweetest tool ever, the MIGHTY VAC!!!

 

80-90F out here today and blue skies.

 

That's the storm we just got here. 40f one day 70f the next.

 

Sounds like you enjoy spending money!
I'm a mechanic, and don't do maintenance until something fell off.
Why wait to introduce the full synth oil? Brakes and clutch already have dot 4 fluid, and any old anti-freeze/coolant will do. Only particular is corrosion resistance for aluminum, I use some orange stuff... Sea foam is fine, usually best if ran thru prior to parking the bike.

Rock On, your snow will melt... Looking for 80's and maybe into 90's 1 day this week also!

LB

 

Well I by no means like to spend money, I just thought this was routine maintenance that was over due. Its an 03' built in 05' W/ the original clutch and brake fluid. The fluid was all red and watery. The coolant is original too. I actually bought reg. antifreeze to begin with, but the Mech. at the shop told me its best for the engine to use the Honda specific stuff. he didn't SEEM full of it.

I'm def. not a mechanic, so I'm nervous to go against the manual in most ways.

I do have a question for you guys.... just how can I tell if there is any air in my clutch or brake line? I swapped the fluid out under vacuum from the mightyvac, but I just can't tell if there's any air in the line.... Is there something spec. I need to feel/look out for? Or is this one of those things I would know immeadiatly if something was wrong?

Thanks!

 

Chemtrailing/HAARP is often a sign they are out to get you by secretly hyperoxygenating the atmosphere and thus inducing bubbles in your brakelines.

Check the Rense website for articles on knowing what is wrong.

Seriously, brakes will feel spongy as the lever will pull back to bar and lack bite , likewise clutch will have an awkward biting point close back to bar.

Easily solvable with a a high tech bleedin' jam jar, hose, appropriate ring spanner and brake juice.

If clutch is still odd check the clutch piston seal near engine sprocket as it can wear and leak. Or grit can get in causing scratches in the piston bore again causing a slow leak.

 

Yeah, the bikes switches and stops fine. But the engagement point has been brought a tiny bit closer to the bar. I think i will try again in a few days. This is the first time I have ever attempted brake and clutch bleeding/flushing. I think i need to get some teflon tape for the bleeder screws too, a little bit of air was sucking in with the mighty vac...

 

I've never seen an ST7317 2X filter, is it twice the capacity as the regular one?

 

The filter is about an inch longer than stock. so there is more filter pleat area, which i think is better. Its only $2 bucks at wal-mart too!
check out this site about diff. filters for our bikes and cross reference guides so you can find a filter anywhere.......I have to do some trimming on the lower fairing to make it work though....

http://www.calsci.com/motorcycleinfo/FilterXRef.html

 

I've seen similar charts and years ago switched to the PureOne PL14612 because of its superior features but also had to trim the chin fairing. I was interested in the WM filter cuz its cheaper and only found the shorter one to use for only winter storage start-up, then switch to the ST but have not found the 2X. The PureOne is worth the extra $4 IMO.

 

yeah, I read up on it too, the PureOne def. seems the best period. This was just staring my in the face screaming, "I'm only 2 dollars!".....
I plan on 1500-2000k oil changes from now on, so why not?

 

1st, as someone else mentioned, switching to Mobil 1 15W-50 after 3,000 miles is fine, and oil changes can be extended to 4K ~ 5k miles thereafter no sweat. Using the PureOne is best at those intervals.

I use a MityVac and teflon tape but some thick grease above the caliper body over the threads is good too but reemember to clean it off after. Honda uses a non-hardening thread sealant on their bleeder nipples which is great stuff. The only place I've been able to find it is at http://speedbleeder.com/install.htm.

The are many other maintenance items you need to do, refer to the shop manual. many are associated with the wheels, suspension/steering head, etc which can be scheduled when its time for new tires.

 

Yeah, you're right I need to look into everything. I def. shouldn't ignore the stuff you mentioned either.

I actually had the Mobil 1 15w-50, but I returned it to go for some moto specific instead. Same price, but more peace of mind.

I think I'm gonna use teflon tape next time too! It was a pain w/o it.