Ok.Ok.
I've been doing some research and decided that the SH is for me.

BUT, in all of my research, there are some looming thoughts and questions.....

CCT- most of you guys are saying that this could be a catastrophic failure, but from the information I've gathered, i just need to be mindful of chain clatter and prepare to do the manual CCT mod sooner than not.

I have found a few really nice bikes out there, priced 2500 to 4000. From other threads here, I find that a nice bike is overpriced at 2500? What gives? What is a good price point for a nice unmolested ride?

I plan to look at a couple next weekend. What should I be aware of?

Thanks in advance, I have more questions...

-JTR

 

Welcome to the forum, where ya from?

The comment about needing to me mindful of chain clatter. If referring to the OE's, you're not gonna have time to hear any. Tensioner breaks, cams skip teeth and motor is significantly damaged. Happens in the blink of an eye. If you are referencing the install of manuals, then different story.





I'd say in this day and age, $3500-4000 is getting up there for a clean one. If it were very low miles, worth that top number if you know what you are getting. Be aware of the usual items when buying a used motorcycle. First thing I look at is the chain to see what kind of care the previews owner takes of his equipment. If it's all rusty and bone dry, I'm very hesitant to offer asking $$. With the VTR it's mostly about the cct and r/r. After that they are very reliable machines.

 

A "nice bike" isn't overpriced at $2500. Now what your or someone else's definition of a nice bike is may vary. If it's any reference last year a '98 on Ebay with 355 miles on it bid up to exactly $3,401. So yeah when guys are asking $4 and $5k for their bikes they're probably not going to get it... It's not that they're not worth the money, they just haven't started climbing in value like others have. For instance saw a clean low mile 900RR bid up to $8 or $9k the other day... Low mile TL1000R's and RC51's also bring a pretty nice price as well. While you certainly don't see Superhawks on every street corner it's still easy enough to find a nice one that there's no reason to pay more than $3-$3,500 for a MINT bike with some nice extras/add-ons.

 

Thanks Wolverine! I guess I missed it (profile has been updated). (Forum faux pas, my bad)

I have two bikes picked out to look at next weekend. Both under 10K on the clock. Priced under $3500. Both are extremely clean in the pics I have received but I know that pics aren't promises and lots can be avoided if strategic pics are taken.

I am very confident with Honda reliability(yes, a fanboy). But you guys have me almost petrified of the CCT. I will be doing the two above mentioned mods quickly after I become an owner.

My bike history....
1986 Honda Rebel. owned for a few months. ~700 miles. until I rode my next bike. (traded)
1991 Suzuki Bandit GSF400. LOVED this bike. ~14k miles. (sold)
1996 Honda CBR600F3. Purchased new. ~12,846 miles (rode beyond my ability which sealed this bike's fate) (wrecked)
2003 Honda Rebel- re-entry into the bike world after my wife finally gave in. Bobbed his one, it was RAD. 8K miles (sold)
2011 Harley FXDWG- Bad *** bike. Sounded FANTASTIC! I hated this bike. clunky. uncomfortable. 5K miles (sold)
2001 Suzuki SV650S- found it CHEAP! It has 38K abused miles. Currently riding and fixing issues. I've put maybe 800 miles on it.
I'm keeping the SV for my middle son to ride. My oldest has a Shadow bobber but I think he's coming around to the sporty side of things. If he continues down this path I'd like to find him a Honda NT650 Hawk. I have also had several scooters (Ruckus/Metropolitan) and will always have a special place for them tiny cc bikes.
My intentions for the SH are a commuter/tour bike. I was fixated on an RC51 but I really want some comfort for longer rides. I will have the RC, one day.

 

If I were shopping for another VTR, I wouldn't let a few hundred bucks dissuade me from the 'right' bike. I paid $3400 for mine w/ 21K miles in Cali. Have done upgrades but had no issues with it, per se. The carbs were 'funny' when I got it, not optimal, but forum member 8541Hawk got that squared away for me. Speaking of the CCTs, mine came with them. As you've heard, replace the automatic adjusters, and upgrade your R/R (see the kit Eric's selling in classifieds), and ride.

As for being overly concerned about the CCTs, they do give up the ghost without much if any warning. So you're wise to be concerned. I believe the front is the more problematic one, but doesn't really matter. You'll replace them both if you choose this route. Lots of bikes are still running around with the stock auto adjusters. But why take a chance?

Givi makes a top rack for the VTR. Harder to come by panniers and pannier racks. But my top box holds 46L and I can get a full-face helmet in it, so I'm content. Besides which, if I ever decide to start lane-splitting, not having the bags on the sides will be a 'plus'.

Lightened flywheel is a sweet thing, as is replacing the shock. Ohlins are nice but I chose to go with Daughtry's re-worked F4i shock for the VTR. Also, the front end is 'soft' from the factory, so you'll probably end up addressing that. Daughtry again, or Progressive, RaceTech, etc.

Lots of folks upgrade the front calipers. I did. In my experience the stock brakes are too 'wimpy' for the bike. There's various choices that are not expensive, used Honda calipers off other sport bikes, e.g, I got 954RR calipers. I also put a radial master cylinder off a '13 600RR on it.

These bikes are still quick, 20-year old design, or not.

Alan

 

Thanks Alan.
Should I look for a certain year? any year to stay clear of?

 

Bike was pretty much unchanged from '97 – '05 apart from minor changes introduced in 2001.

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Honda_VTR1000F#Model_history

 

I think most have it covered for you...

Look at it in four categories
Reliability stuff: Full inspection, axle to axle.....fix what was found, then RR swap, CCT swap; all new fluids, grease and take apart, clean, inspect, grease , connect every elec connector ..not only for the connector reliability, but it will cause you to look over all the wiring and spot shoddy previous work.

Rideability stuff: Carb balancing, TPS setting to 500 ohm, suspension adjustment within available ranges, if you ride at night a headlight upgrade like the Cyclops LED drop in bulb.

Performance stuff: Light weight flywheel (I know a guy...lol), Carb jetting, brakes, suspension by Jamie (that is just a few "1st" things, the list cold go on for pages)

I have bought and set up three VTR's now for others, all of the above was the minimum done to put them on the road....
I have had 2 VTRs now and did all of the above and more when I bought my replacement VTR

Personality stuff: There is no correct "list" for this... It could be FZ1 fuse block, USB port, throttle lock, double bubble tinted windscreen, trimmed fearing and apex bars, Sergent seat, Factory Pro shift kit, lower gearing, speedo healer, undertail and a lower.....or it might be red spike windscreen screws, and a punisher skull die cut decal over the headlight (please dont let it be that)

 

john the red, I was new here too, not long ago. Ask about anything that you don't understand and the guys here will clarify.

Alan

 

Sorry for the delayed update....

SHawk purchased!
Superfast Yellow with 9700 miles. I paid 2700 and am completely STOKED!
She rides like a brand new bike.
Added bits are only shorty Delkevic pipes. Ugly and buzzy at FWY speeds.
R&R mod ordered from Erik. Thanks dude!
MCCT's next.
Pics in the next few days!
-JTR

 

Awesome! Lets see it!
Sounds like you are on your way. Good choice on the R/R kit. Installation is key, be meticulous. Follow up with those chain tensions and you will have a very reliable steed.

 

Yes please.
Though what I send is as assembled as it can be, other then two ring terminal connections to the battery and three stator connector wires soldiered to the old stator wires.
The Key is, all the terminals are pre crimped for the installer, the seals installed correctly, both connectors have the terminals installed in the body's .

Most can fake the job needed for the ring terminal crimps as long as you use common parts store types (I don't they are 1.0mm Thick Solid brass ..regular crimpers wont do them)
The Furukawa QLW 250 terminals are large and thick (yes there is a bad joke there is your so inclined) and you really need the right crimper. The Hero BL-255 Heavy Duty Crimp Tool works well, but is $170 a pair and silly to buy for a one time use, or even a few times in life of motorcycle ownership. A necessary evil for me, along with 4 different ratcheting crimpers, 3 hydraulic crimpers..