I've been searching this site for a "how to" on doing this and I'm seeing conflicting procedures. Some say the carbs need to be removed to get the the one on the front cylinder, and some say just the tank and air box need to be removed. Doesn't the engine need to be running to adjust them properly? The carbs need to be installed for that...

 

Just did this last week. The engine doesn't need to be in running condition as you adjust them with the plugs out and valve covers off anyway.

If you don't have the plastic tray beneath the carburetor , then you might be able to get to the front one without removing the carbs.

I went ahead and removed the carbs when doing mine, following this guide: https://www.vtr1000.org/phpBB3/viewtopic.php?t=28583

 

Thanks!

 

As said, if you remove the head covers, you adjust tension by measurement. If you choose to not remove them to install cct's, you can adjust by feel/noise. I did that with my first install and it worked out fine. I've worked on stuff since my pedal bike and dirt bike days so you'd want to be very experienced to do so.

First time, I'd highly recommend removing covers and zip tying chains to cams to prevent jumping time (just in case).

 

I didn't think about doing the cable ties, that's a good idea. Yes, since this is my first time doing anything like this, I think I will remove the head covers...that way I'll know it's right when I'm done...

 

The thread in the Knowledgebase has some good info/pics. Bring your patience. The front cover can be finicky. THe oil cooler might need unbolted and moved a little, if I recall correct.

https://www.superhawkforum.com/forum...e3/#post195189

 

One last question; does anyone know what the purpose of the plastic cowl is that's located between the air intake box and the front head cover? I see no reason for it to be there. Why not remove it and leave it off? It just seems to be in the way...

 

I actually have one more question. Is it possible for the engine to run if the cam chain is misaligned on the sprocket by 1 or 2 teeth? I'm still looking for an answer to my last question as well. Thanks.

 

After doing some research, I found out the plastic piece between the head cover and the bottom of the tank is a heat shield. So I guess it does have a function. I still haven't found out about what happens if one of the cam chains is off by a tooth or two on the sprocket...I realize at some point the valves are going to come in contact with the pistons...

 

Where'd everybody go?

 

You're asking questions that this forum has answered before. All this stuff is a search away.

 

Grampi50, Forums like this don't see the same social traffic that they did 10yrs ago. If you are seeking a more active community, try the facebook groups.

Forums like this function more like a library's of useful, archived information (that you have to search for usually) and not as social as they once were.

Like most forums, oldtimers and regulars will still pop in every now and then, but lives move on.

If Facebook isn't your thing, then realize that you (and I as well for that matter) showed up to this party about 15yrs late.

I admin a vbullitin based enthusiast forum that was once super active, now it maybe sees 1 post a month, maybe 2.

Everyone moved to Facebook groups and Instagram that are more social than technical.

 

I have searched about the chain being off a tooth or two and have found nothing. With a few more words you could've answered my question...

 

The bad thing about the FB page is it's occupied mostly by Fire Storm owners, and they don't seem to have the same technical knowledge of this bike as the those on this forum. They also use different terms for parts and procedures that can make getting info a bit challenging. There is so much knowledge in this forum it would impress Honda's engineers...

 

Well, I had a frustrating day today. I started the process of replacing the OEM CCTs with manual ones. Using my Haynes manual, and the procedure listed in here, I expected this process to take maybe 3 or 4 hours. The link on the forum said it should take about 2.5 hours to complete. Yeah right! I'd like to see somebody do in that amount of time. I started at 10 this morning, and called it quits for the day at 5. I got the front cylinder done, that's it. I was exhausted. Every time I had to remove something, I had to remove something else to be able to remove the first thing. I had to remove the carbs to get the stupid heat shield off, which has to be removed to be able to get at the head cover bolts. The heat shield is NOT going back on, it's just in the way. I was going to check my valve clearance while I had the head cover off, but the instructions on how to do it in the Haynes manual are very vague. I hope the clearance is good because I couldn't figure out how to check them. The instructions for setting the tension on the manual CCTs is also vague. It says to set them so there's 5 to 7mm of play on the cam chain between the sprockets. I checked the play with the OEM ones still installed and there was no play on the chain. I don't understand why the chain should be looser with the manual CCT. I hope I can get the carbs back on, I've heard that can be a bear, and I'm not sure where all of the hoses are supposed to go when I put it back together. There's so many hoses and lines on this thing it looks like a snake's nest in there! I thought this bike would be easy to to work on because it's older and doesn't have nearly as many gadgets on it as the newer bikes do. Man was I wrong! ☹️