Ok, I'm going crazy trying to figure out how to take the "front" cylinder head cover off. I've taken off the fairings, disconnected the appropriate hoses/wires, moved the oil cooler "forward"...

The two "top" bolts (of the four that keep the cover on) look impossible to remove... what's the trick to getting these out? Clearly an ordinary socket w/extension isn't going to do the trick (not enough room).

I bought a flex-head socket adapter and it didn't seem to do any good.

What am I missing here??

 

I got one of those Chilton's kinda manuals when I bought my Super Hawk. Hang on - it's down in the shop - it's raining here but I'll go get it.

 

Awesome! I'm totally stumped. I have the black VTR1000 manual and it just says "remove the 4 bolts". Not helpful at all.

 

There are the two 6mm bolts that have to come out first. Then you have to remove the six 10mm bolts. It says you have to loosen them like you put a tire on a spindle (on a car) - criss-cross pattern until they are all loose. Pass the head under and through the cam chain. They advise wiring the cam chain up so it cannot fall into the crankcase. It sounds to me like the whole upper cam assembly has to come out before the heads come off. You probably already did that. Hope this helps.

 

I should add that this is the sequence for '97 to '00 machines.

 

If you're just concerned with removing the cover you're going to need an extension and a flex-joint (or whaterver you call that damn thing) for your ratchet. It takes a little maneuvering to get the socket above the cover but it's possible. It's actually easier with a flex-head ratchet. Or two joints will do. I used a flex-head socket, joint, long extension, flex-joint and a deep-well socket.

Though you're supposed to be able to remove the cover without removing the front tire I discovered it's much easier with the tire removed. If you don't want to do that you'll at least have to turn the tire to one side or the other. And it's easier to slide out if you've removed one of the radiators.

 

Here's a scan from the manual I'm using.

I drew arrows to the bolts I'm trying to remove. The bottom ones are easy, the top ones are tucked back inside and I can't get any tools back there. The two top bolts are hidden in this view, but I drew a dot where they're at.

These are the 10mm head cover bolts.

 

Did you read my post above?

 

OOps! I thought you were taking the cylinder head off not just the valve cover.

This manual says to remove the fairing, oil cooler and oil cooler bracket - do not disconnect hoses just move the cooler out of the way. If the cover does not come off tap with block of wood or rubber hammer. Gasket should be retained if it's in good condition. You're right - there are four bolts.

 

As a side note, I should probably mention that my end-goal is to check/adjust the valves.

NuHawk: I've got an '01. Not sure if that makes a difference. I don't see any mention of ANY 6mm bolts, so maybe we're not talking about the same thing.

MisterMohawk: No problem removing the wheel and/or radiator if that's what it takes. I was hesitant because there was no mention of removing it. I don't need to disconnect any radiator hoses, do I?

Or two joints will do. I used a flex-head socket, joint, long extension, flex-joint and a deep-well socket.


Hmmm? I'm trying to picture your setup, but can't. hmmm.

 

The book doesn't mention anything about it because the writer(s) consulted Honda techs who do this with their eyes closed. You don't HAVE to remove the wheel and rad but it certainly makes things easier. Just get a 5 gal. bucket and pull the upper rad hose off. Let it drain, pull the rad and let hang in the bucket. It's much more difficult to slide the cover off if you don't. I also disconnected one of the oil cooler lines because you have to pull the cover straight off head several inches before you can even slide it off. The book doesn't tell you to because they describe removals with a minimum of ancillary manipulation.

As for my socket setup, just get a ratchet, deep well socket, an extension and a couple of flex-joints (universal joints) and play with the combination. I know it's a pain in the *** to get the business end over the top of the cover and then down at an angle.

 

Touche. That's it.


Ok... yeah, it just doesn't seem possible.

Plus, at that wierd angle, it doesn't feel like I can get the right amount of pressure on the bolt... I'm afraid I've already rounded the bolt a *tad*.

Maybe I need a different universal joint. I'm guessing there are several types..?

 

When i did this i removed tank, airbox and the plastic cover under the airbox. THis gives you easy acess to the top screws.

 

Mac tools makes or at least used to make a 3/8 extension with a beveled end. This allows you to have a "swivel" up to about 20 degrees with out the thing folding over like a standard u joint does. It seem like thats what I used to loosen the bolts. then I just back them out by hand with out looking. at lesat the back ones.