HIGH SIDED THE SH TODAY
#1
HIGH SIDED THE SH TODAY
Just thought id post this so you guys could have a good laugh at my awesome day of riding. Blasted a 10mph corner way to fast after just upping my tire pressure like an idiot. Soooo glad its been raining here in central ohio for like 2 weeks straight cuz i landed in a flooded yard. Bike didnt even hit the pavement, just got a quick brown paintjob. My buddy a was riding with earlier in the day had a rabbit fake him out on his tl1000r, n his goofy as went ditchin it too. what tire pressure do u guys run that corner hard? i have almost brand new continentals with 30 psi n it seems like too much.
#6
#7
#10
well tire pressure is the only factor I can come up with for my loss of traction in oct. Checked the bike out after the crash and the front tire was 45 PSI. I should not have trusted the pumps gauge that day. Albeit I was also going fast but it just went no sliding just went. To me seems like pressure can have an affect on the street.
#11
well tire pressure is the only factor I can come up with for my loss of traction in oct. Checked the bike out after the crash and the front tire was 45 PSI. I should not have trusted the pumps gauge that day. Albeit I was also going fast but it just went no sliding just went. To me seems like pressure can have an affect on the street.
Then again maybe there is something here, get the pressures too far off from where Honda suggests for the street and end up in the ditch.....
#12
i ran 28 cold in the rear last year and the bike was fine, it wore the tire fast but the bike stuck well. at the same time i also ran 42 cold in my old bt021 and i had the back end get squirrly a couple times in corners. that was likely rider issue more than anything else because i forgot to check my tire pressure on my new bt016 rear and rode it at 40 and the bike was just fine when i hammered corners on it. so different tires will want slightly different pressures. but i dont think your pressures were off too far to where you would have had an issue
#17
thats the truth right there. i try to avoid the rain and ive been caught in it a few times, last time half throttle was blowing apart the rear tire and the ground was damp. these bikes are fun to ride but arent forgiving if you dont respect the instant low end power in bad conditions
#18
Ok so wait, you high sided? Did it look like this YouTube - High Side because hi-sides are nasty & rarely result in nothing hapening to the bike.
Dont put your prssures at 34 rear on the street. All my racebikes stay at 29 rear 32 front but NEVER would I do that on the street. Way too high in the front will help it skate out. Too low in the rear will actually change the geometry & make the bike sluggish.
Is it possible you just dumped? Hi-side sounds glamorous but my last hi side broke my collar bone & 3 ribs.
Dont put your prssures at 34 rear on the street. All my racebikes stay at 29 rear 32 front but NEVER would I do that on the street. Way too high in the front will help it skate out. Too low in the rear will actually change the geometry & make the bike sluggish.
Is it possible you just dumped? Hi-side sounds glamorous but my last hi side broke my collar bone & 3 ribs.
#19
Ok so wait, you high sided? Did it look like this YouTube - High Side because hi-sides are nasty & rarely result in nothing hapening to the bike.
Dont put your prssures at 34 rear on the street. All my racebikes stay at 29 rear 32 front but NEVER would I do that on the street. Way too high in the front will help it skate out. Too low in the rear will actually change the geometry & make the bike sluggish.
Is it possible you just dumped? Hi-side sounds glamorous but my last hi side broke my collar bone & 3 ribs.
Dont put your prssures at 34 rear on the street. All my racebikes stay at 29 rear 32 front but NEVER would I do that on the street. Way too high in the front will help it skate out. Too low in the rear will actually change the geometry & make the bike sluggish.
Is it possible you just dumped? Hi-side sounds glamorous but my last hi side broke my collar bone & 3 ribs.
Highsides are usually painfull, for rider and machine both, I have tried it, and it's no picknick... I'd say it's a lot more likely you lowsided, if it was in the rain...
#20
#21
[quote=smokinjoe73;300502]Ok so wait, you high sided? Did it look like this YouTube - High Side because hi-sides are nasty & rarely result in nothing hapening to the bike.
Dont put your prssures at 34 rear on the street. All my racebikes stay at 29 quote]
Found it. You will want to watch this.
YouTube - IMPOSSIBLE crash save.
Dont put your prssures at 34 rear on the street. All my racebikes stay at 29 quote]
Found it. You will want to watch this.
YouTube - IMPOSSIBLE crash save.
#24
If you look at the tire pressure sticker on your bike it will list the brand and type of tire that came(sometimes more than one brand)on the bike with the manufacture's recomended tire pressure.When you change brands you should go to their site and look at the fitment guide.It will tell you what there recomended pressure for that tire on your bike is.Construction and differant tread compounds can make a differance.My last set were Conti Road Attacks run at Conti's recomended pressure.No surprises.no cupping and have a neutral feel to them.Got about 6K miles out of them.I have done it this way for 44 years with pretty good results.Scrub your tires in slowly.Just because you road 100 miles on new tires does not mean they are ready for peg dragging.Work the chicken strip out a little at a time.Where in Ohio?I feel your pain in the rain.
#25
How slippery are new tires?Have a look--YouTube - new bike crash
#26
Well the new tire thing is from days gone by. The tire manufactures no longer use mold release which is what used to cause the problem.
The reason tires are slick when new has to due with the very smooth surface of a new tire.
There is no reason to put 100's of miles on a new tire to break it in. You just need to scrub the surface by increasing your lean angles in a controlled manner until you hit the edge (or to whatever point you are comfortable leaning the bike over) and then you are good to go.
I generally have a new tire ready for anything I plan to throw at it in 10 -15 min.
The reason tires are slick when new has to due with the very smooth surface of a new tire.
There is no reason to put 100's of miles on a new tire to break it in. You just need to scrub the surface by increasing your lean angles in a controlled manner until you hit the edge (or to whatever point you are comfortable leaning the bike over) and then you are good to go.
I generally have a new tire ready for anything I plan to throw at it in 10 -15 min.
#27
Well the new tire thing is from days gone by. The tire manufactures no longer use mold release which is what used to cause the problem.
The reason tires are slick when new has to due with the very smooth surface of a new tire.
There is no reason to put 100's of miles on a new tire to break it in. You just need to scrub the surface by increasing your lean angles in a controlled manner until you hit the edge (or to whatever point you are comfortable leaning the bike over) and then you are good to go.
The reason tires are slick when new has to due with the very smooth surface of a new tire.
There is no reason to put 100's of miles on a new tire to break it in. You just need to scrub the surface by increasing your lean angles in a controlled manner until you hit the edge (or to whatever point you are comfortable leaning the bike over) and then you are good to go.
But the tech at the dealer gets a little heavy with the "bead lube" sometimes, so I wash my bike to get that stuff off the sidewalls and chicken strips after I get home.
#28
On a racetrack I can drag my knee before the end of the first lap on brand new sticker on tires. BUT that is a controlled environment. Be more careful on the street. The track has very few semis ready to crush you. Even with the "no mold release" claims, some new tires are slicker than others.
#30
How slippery are new tires?Have a look--YouTube - new bike crash
In terms of tire pressure for the street, if you want the best mileage, air em up to spec cold and check your gauge accuracy. The same applies for two up and for touring. Generally, with max pressure you can expect a rougher ride on anything but the smoothest roads.
If you are going to run predominantly the twisties and want the best contact patch and the most feel, experiment with lower pressures. I have found that for my weight and with Power Pures, 32-34psi rear cold(which turns into minimum 36-38psi warm and higher hot, works great.
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