Circuit_Burner

but its very tasty spam !

Everyones aware about Regulators going out.
People have varying theories as to how they actually work.
I have good news finally for you all, a real solution to OEM Regulator Rectifiers.

Our company got its design patent last month on a regulator design, and we also got a utility patent on the rectifier design.
We have been working over a year on this program, and have tirelessly tested units on the track and on the street since the early proto type.

If you want an alternative to stock units, or splicing in a used one from a different make, I have the answer.

We learned more about the function of the R/R than we ever imagined.
1st let me bust some of the misconceptions of what they do.
The heat comes from two sources, not one.
Primarily heat is generated from the Diodes in the rectifier circuit. Using more current does not reduce this heat. 70% of the R/R heat is generated here. The other 30% is generated by the SCR in the rectifier. This part is where the regulator dumps the extra voltage and current into ground...
a "shunt".
Using more power will make the SCR dump -or "shunt" less power into ground, generating less heat at the SCR. but this is not significant.
Stock units have only one SCR. This SCR grounds one of the 3 AC circuits from the Stator, causing magnetic field collapse of the stator and thus less charge.
The regulator circuit makes no heat at all.

the longer you have a R/R in service, the sooner it will die. they constantly decay slowly with the diodes they use in the factory piece. If you buy a used one, its most likely already half dead..as even AC battery chargers over 6 amps hammer the stock diodes.

Another thing is the Mag generates up to 50 rectified volts, depending on RPM. This voltage increase is linear and slopes up evenly with RPM.


The diodes ratings in stock SuperHawk Rectifiers we found was only 15 amps !
Some yamahas have 20 amp diodes.

The ones we are building have 40 amp diodes in the rectifier and 3 SCRs
-one for each of the 3 circuits in the Stator. This makes the heat in the Stator more uniform between the 3 groups of windings ... making your stators last longer.
Stock R/R heats up the one set of windings its connected to, unevenly heating the Stator coils, leading eventually to a failed Stator.
We use 100% American made parts, Diodes, and SCRs... with Canadian made hardware.
The diodes are far superior to their japanese counterparts, and the vendor sells these same parts to military aviation component contractors. They are US Mil Spec.

To mount the unit anywhere on the bike, let us know how long leads you need.
My personal R/R prototype is the fan model mounted neatly in the rectangular slot under the seat. It gets no air, and stays cool.

The best part is we will warranty the unit for life. yes, its real.
If you burn one up, we want it back! We want to see what failed, because right now, its nearly impossible to overheat one of ours.
There are varying features to choose from, including thermostat controlled cooling fans, separate regulator and rectifier units that can be mounted anywhere on the bike. ( you dont have to mount it where the stock one goes ). 14 guage platinum hook up wire link makes the operating temperature of the stock Stator wires drop by half. (have you ever felt how hot the stock stator wires get?) lol

We can even adjust the output to suit custom needs.
Regulator clip-off voltage is variable between 12v and 16v.

another option gives you a windscreen or dash mounted LED indicator of charging status. One light for 13v+, another peak indicator at 16v, and an alarm indicator set at anything above 17v. Works great. no guessing.

If you have a Stator thats fried, and its an expensive one, we offer complete repair and rebuilding of many models. Our mag wire is better than anything made in japan, handles 100 degrees more heat and is twice as chemical resistant than stock mag wire.
Lastly we seal all repairs or rebuilds in high quality "corona dope" and cure the unit in oven for 5 hours.
Get a better Stator than a stocker by having us rebuild your burned out unit. Prices start at $100.00 for localized repairs, up to $300.00 for full rewinding and upgrade. Ever price a triumph or BMW stator? Pacemaker working good?

I have to tell you all how much help I got from you last year in figuring out my original charging problems on my own SuperBird. Now I return the favor and offer what I think is the best alternative to the stock junk rectifier with the teeny weeny diodes.


A third patent comming soon covers our flagship model, the dual redundant "Fail Safe" model. It contains the guts of two R/R, one acting as a backup. When the primary fails ( if thats possible ) the secondary lights an alarm LED and takes over duties, allowing you to finish your race or trip. To make any unit a FailSafe model, it increases the cost by $100.00.
Touring guys and Rally / Endurance racing people will appreciate this model.

I will offer a unit to the site manager here gratis ... and I will sell the 1st 6 units at my cost to registered forum members. ( about $90 (us))
They retail for $156.00 up to $300.00. Superhawk and similar class models start at $120.00. All guaranteed for life.

(If you hook up the unit reverse polarity, you void the warranty. I will know because a zener diode inside will trip when reverse current passes)

I will try and contact site admins about sponsorship.
More details upon inquiry.
Online catalog and tech info comming in days.

Benfish65

I just read this and I was wondering how far this went? I might be interested in purchasing one.

VTR1000F

I've never heard of this, so I'm guessing it didn't go too far?

Here's a link where you can get what you're looking for from a forum member:

https://www.superhawkforum.com/forum...ferrerid=15173