YTKinWI

I dropped the SH on it's right side while taking it off the rear wheel stand in the grass at the last track day of 2010. It ran fine at the track and I did not see any cracked plastic. Well, I'm storing it with a friend's SH and he was doing some maintenance on his in his heated shop when he decided to compare how easily his fan spun in the housing as compared to my fan. Bad news, neither spun, it seems that I cracked the plastic fan shroud and that caused the blades to bind.

It is nice to say that we got my fan shroud fixed by doing some plastic welding using a soldering iron and zip ties. The whole repair took 45 minutes.

Now, if I remember correctly the "hot ticket" for replacement front brake pads on the SH stock brakes are EBC HH. If there is something better (and, no, I have no interest in swapping caliphers as I've always been a 3-finger braker and stock SH caliphers are just fine for me). Also, are there less costly alternatives to "Engine Ice?"

Tweety

The selection of brake pads on the stock calipers are limited... That's one of the other reasons it's popular to swap them... CBR calipers give you a lot more options... So without a swap, that's it...

As for coolant... I dunno on cost, but Waterwetter is one option, I think?

thefitzvh

I did racetech springs, rear shock spacer, stainless front brake lines and EBC HH pads. I also plan on buying track plastics and frame sliders

98VTRrider

I know you said LESS expensive not MORE expensive but.....Motul makes a waterwetter type additive called MoCOOL...

http://www.courtneyconcepts.com/motul_coolant.html

I'd recommend any Motul product. I worked for the east coast Automotive master distributor of Motul, with a Dyno in house, and we used/tested all of their products. They really do work

nath981

you might want to make rearsets if you don't have them.

https://www.superhawkforum.com/forum...earsets&page=2

trackdayhawk

Redline Water Wetter is my choice, it does a good job as a coolant and lubricant for your cooling system. Be absolutely sure to drain your system at the end of the season and winterize the it, a cracked head or block is not an easy or cheap work-around.

Just signed up for a couple of weekends, Barber and Road America, I'll probably throw in a few Grattans too. Has anybody done Calaboogie, in Ontario yet?

smokinjoe73

I only use water wetter and distilled water in my racebikes since coolant is not legal for racing. Just use that, it has worked for many racers for many years.

Old Yeller

I use EBCs on mine at the track with stock calipers. As I've progressed my riding skills (meaning harder braking into corners) I'm beginning to see some brake fade toward the end of sessions. I'm not using SS lines yet. Might help. If you are novice or low to mid intermediate, the EBCs should be ok.

nath981

it's not a matter of "might help". There is no doubt that those rubber suckers expand too much. It's an easy way to improve your lap times and well worth the the price safety wise.

smokinjoe73

Rubber lines on the track? I would recommend against that. Also EBC has a few types of pads. HH are by far the most suitable except for thier extreme version which I dont know are avail for the SH.
EBC made the extremes to compete (kinda) with the vesrah RJL pads which are unbelievably powerful. If you have brakes that can fit them you gotta try them.
Took me a whole day to get used to changing my brake markers over the HH.

Old Yeller

I guess I'm just lucky to be alive.

nath981

+1 we're all lucky in that respect and if you restrict your riding to the track, you'll be a lot more likely to stay that way because the likelihood of hitting something hard is significantly reduced.

It's not that you have to have ss lines because evidently you don't. It's just reasonable to employ at least minimal brake upgrades like pads, new fluid, and ss lines when you go as fast as you can on the straights, then brake as hard as you can for the turns, and do this consecutively for relatively long durations.

if you're just cruising around the track and not interested in pushing the envelop, then rubber lines are adequate and I'm not saying that you're doing that or that there's anything wrong with doing that. It's a great way to improve your riding skills in a safer environment and save yourself from getting those costly driving awards that pile up and cause you to lose you license.

Tweety

The fading on the stock lines is noticable... On track and off... On track it makes it difficult to keep consistant breaking points... So SS lines is a nice upgrade...

nath981

agree wholeheartedly. and the lousier your brakes, the more they help. With the stock set up, the most you can do is to get good brake pads like ebc hh, pull calipers off and clean all the pistons, add new fluid, blast or sand rotors and pads, and install ss lines. Then, the brakes are not great, but much better than oem.

Old Yeller

You guys brow beat me bad enough that I picked up a set of used Galfer brake lines on ebay last night. Only 10 bucks plus shipping. I'd better be able to run like a crazy man on the track or I'm blaming you guys!

smokinjoe73

You should be thanking us that you will no longer be the butt of trackday jokes due to the water balloons you were running as brake lines. I mean, you arent running touring tires off your cruiser are you? Great bargain find btw.

nath981

great price! esp since they don't wear out. Hell, probably could sell the oem rubbers for more than that, albeit i just tossed mine when I got the galphers.

Let me know how you route them. I just had to pull down my fork leg when installing cause I got the lines on the outside of the fork leg. Now i have them going down the front of the triples, but maybe they would be better to go between the triples to the backside of the lower triple? I don't know because i haven't tried that yet(can't remember where i had them before), but i think it make work better because they're rubbing a bit on the front side of the lower triple and don't think they were before. So i used some corrugated split wire harness covering until i decide to try the between the triple route?

Hopefully this will save you some routing issues.

8541Hawk

Never do this (run behind the triple clamps) as you can pinch the line between the frame and the triple, which would be a very bad thing.

nath981

yeah, never thought of that. What's weird is that i don't remember it rubbing the front of the bottom triple before or I would have covered it.

thanks for the heads up because i was going to try that route.

Old Yeller

Dunlop Elite 3's. Is that a problem?

nath981

Hell no. They're great as long as you're running 48psi cold front and rear.

Old Yeller

Must be why I got nearly 15k miles out of em.

nath981

haha! you might wanna quit while your behind. 15K out of tires and rubber brake lines on the track might indicate the horrific pace you were running. I believe your "brow beating" yourself significantly more than any of us here. However, I'm sure everyone appreciates the honesty.

Whenever you get those SS lines on and break down for a pair of sticky tires, you will thank us for the free advice, that is, if you continue with your policy of openness and honesty.

Old Yeller

Hmmmm....my sarcasm seems to have been missed. the E3s are on my touring bike. A Concours. I got 15k out of them even while scraping hard parts. the hawk has Power Race/Power One combo. About 4 track days and they will be ready for a change. Perhaps less with my new-found exceptional braking ability. Did I have you worried?

nath981

I ain't the worrying type. My previously perceived policy of openness and honesty relative to your posts is now on the chopping block. haha

smokinjoe73

Hey yeller I knew what the joke was. There was a guy who used to teach for the penguin race school who did 2 up rides on a concourse on the racetrack at like 2/3 race pace. No idea what tires he ran. Just a factoid