Front adjustable pegs for taller rider?
#1
Front adjustable pegs for taller rider?
Anybody bought or use rider pegs that are lower or adjustable?
I feel like I need to take yoga classes to get used to my feet being tucked up so high.
I found some cnc aluminum adjustable 25mm and 40 mm.not cheap and from honk kong.
I feel like I need to take yoga classes to get used to my feet being tucked up so high.
I found some cnc aluminum adjustable 25mm and 40 mm.not cheap and from honk kong.
#3
I'm all about doing stuff on the cheap but $44.80 shipped isn't that bad for billet adjustable and brand new. You could also search for the Buell footpeg mod if you can find some cheap.
buell peg mod w/pics - SuperHawk Forum
Buell Footpegs Modification - Modifications - VFR Discussion
buell peg mod w/pics - SuperHawk Forum
Buell Footpegs Modification - Modifications - VFR Discussion
#4
The cheap chinese ones on ebay actually stick out about an inch farther than OEM because of the way they mount, and some people on the ZRX board didn't like the way it pushed their feet out. Others didn't mind. The Buell footpeg mod is also very popular over there.
The discussion thread with pictures is here.
I wonder if the Harley-Buell parts division ever looks at the number of footpegs they sell, trying to figure out what's going on there?
I just ordered a pair of these pegs for the ZRX, $110 - $120. We'll see how they fit when they arrive.
The discussion thread with pictures is here.
I wonder if the Harley-Buell parts division ever looks at the number of footpegs they sell, trying to figure out what's going on there?
I just ordered a pair of these pegs for the ZRX, $110 - $120. We'll see how they fit when they arrive.
Last edited by FTL900; 06-06-2014 at 07:47 AM.
#5
#6
Just an FYI, I spend a lot of time in a machine shop, and if you EVER grind aluminum, you will be kicked out of there by a mob of master machinists. Just saw the Buell peg thread. Grinding wheels explode when used with aluminum. Use a file, sanding wheel, or something else. Aluminum gums up the grinding wheels causing them to overheat and sometimes explode.
#7
Just an FYI, I spend a lot of time in a machine shop, and if you EVER grind aluminum, you will be kicked out of there by a mob of master machinists. Just saw the Buell peg thread. Grinding wheels explode when used with aluminum. Use a file, sanding wheel, or something else. Aluminum gums up the grinding wheels causing them to overheat and sometimes explode.
Aluminum absorbs heat extremely well. A grinding wheel meant for steel will become clogged with the Alu and explode like a grenade once the heat builds up too much, shooting pieces of stone into your hands, arms, face, and chest.
There are sanding/buffing wheels specifically for aluminum which work very well due to its soft nature.
#8
I have the MFW Vario pivot adapter, 1" bracket & racing pegs and think they are the best, most "elegant engineered solution without resorting to full-on rear sets (which usually go up & back but not down). I got them for a lot less that at TT (MFW Vario Passenger Footpeg Mounts for Triumph Speed Triple 1050 & Tiger 1050 - TwistedThrottle.com).
See my recent reply to the SA pivot bolt thread...
See my recent reply to the SA pivot bolt thread...
#10
I've done the Buell peg mod.
NOT recommended if you push your bike. Now every time I hammer it in a steep, sweepy curve my boot scraps the ground when it didn't before. Not a nice feeling, but getting used to it. Was it worth the small comfort gain? Yes. After riding from Allentown PA down to Morgantown WV then up to Cedar Point Ohio (@750mi), I did notice a difference. But it didn't turn it into a goldwing either....when your cramped up, your cramped up.
And grinding wheels don't explode just because of AL. They explode when you press the material on the side and not the front grinding surface. Machinists and the like get pissed because when welders/others come in to grind steel, they get aluminum pieces imbedded in their steel and that causes inclusions and cracks. And it gums up the wheel.
But totally doable when they aint lookin LOL thats how I got mine done!! Took out some scrap steel and removed the glaze just to be nice...
NOT recommended if you push your bike. Now every time I hammer it in a steep, sweepy curve my boot scraps the ground when it didn't before. Not a nice feeling, but getting used to it. Was it worth the small comfort gain? Yes. After riding from Allentown PA down to Morgantown WV then up to Cedar Point Ohio (@750mi), I did notice a difference. But it didn't turn it into a goldwing either....when your cramped up, your cramped up.
And grinding wheels don't explode just because of AL. They explode when you press the material on the side and not the front grinding surface. Machinists and the like get pissed because when welders/others come in to grind steel, they get aluminum pieces imbedded in their steel and that causes inclusions and cracks. And it gums up the wheel.
But totally doable when they aint lookin LOL thats how I got mine done!! Took out some scrap steel and removed the glaze just to be nice...
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