I stand corrected.

 

You might also consider removing the spark plugs to make sure there is no cylinder pressure

 

Not sure if it matters if the pistons are at TDC when changing each one - can't see any way for the timing to change unless the cams rotate.
[/quote]

if one of the cam lobes is under valve spring pressure when you release chain tension it can jump timing between the loose loop of chain hanging on the crankshaft sprocket. (low point of the chain and half the size of the cam sprockets)
If your @ TDC you'll be on the heel of both cams for that cylinder, and there'll be no valve spring pressure on the cam lobes to cause them to rotate.

It's still a good idea to hand crank afterward to verify cam timing.

~Jeffers

 

This picture might help to understand the cam chain and sprocket relationship.

 

I just had the very same problem happen on Monday. I had never heard of this problem with the SH before. Now it seems like it's happening to everyone!

 

You DO need to be at TDC but you don't need to remove the plugs, any pressure in the cyl will bleed off long before you get the CCT removed. There is a tool Honda uses to lock the CCT plunger in place for removal and installation. It can be easily cut from a small piece of sheet metal, the shape is shown in the Haynes manual page 2.14 The manual also has a good write up on the proceedure in general. There is a trick to get the cams in the right position. If you rotate the crank counter-clockwise until the timing mark is at "FT" the front cyl piston will be at the top BUT the cam lobes will either be pointed "up and out" (the proper position) or 180° out pointing "down and in". You can verify the proper position by simply removing the right-front valve cover bolt on the front cylinder, take a small flashlight and look at the front (exhaust) cam right side lobe. If you're looking at the peak of the lobe, the front cams are in the right place, if you are looking at the bottom of the lobe you just need to rotate the crank 360° CCW to align the "FT" mark again and the cam will be correct. After doing the Front CCT just rotate the crank 270° CCW until the "RT" mark lines up and you are set to do the rear CCT.
This same alignment technique makes adjusting manual CCTs easy since the cams need to again be in the correct position.

 

_________________
John

'99 VTR1000
'02 KLR650
************
Pretty amazing John , same two bikes.
Is the KLR a canyon bike?

~CaffeineRacer~VTR996~KLR651~
Los Angeles, California, USA
http://www.labiker.com/members/?JeffGronert

 

Jeff,
Wow, I see you have good (great) taste in bikes. I couldn't say my KLR is a canyon bike (not to many canyons in TN) but I do like taking it up onto our TN and NC mountain twisty roads. The trouble is on a nice weekend I have a hard time deciding which of my two rides to head up into the hills with since as you know the KLR is such a blast to ride...(as is the VTR of course)....