Engine wont start
#1
Engine wont start
Hello everyone,
I just bought a 1998 Honda superhawk vtr1000 2 weeks ago, anyways I tried to start it and nothing happen. The person I bought the bike from said its the crankshaft whats the best method to trouble shoot this bike.
I just bought a 1998 Honda superhawk vtr1000 2 weeks ago, anyways I tried to start it and nothing happen. The person I bought the bike from said its the crankshaft whats the best method to trouble shoot this bike.
#2
Hmmm. Are you pushing the starter button?
But for reals, do you have any more information? Are any lights on? Is there any clicking? Do you have a multimeter to test the battery voltage? It could be anything from a dead battery to killswitch to fuse. The crankshaft is definitely very low on the list of things that would cause it (so stop listening to the previous owner- they're not gonna be any help it sounds like).
Also, where are you located?
But for reals, do you have any more information? Are any lights on? Is there any clicking? Do you have a multimeter to test the battery voltage? It could be anything from a dead battery to killswitch to fuse. The crankshaft is definitely very low on the list of things that would cause it (so stop listening to the previous owner- they're not gonna be any help it sounds like).
Also, where are you located?
#3
like 7 said, i doubt it has anything to do with the crankshaft. on that note, why on earth would you buy a bike that the owner says has problems with the crankshaft?
anyway check things like battery, Rectifier/regulator, make sure you havnt had a CCT failure, the starter, the stator, the list goes on.....
anyway check things like battery, Rectifier/regulator, make sure you havnt had a CCT failure, the starter, the stator, the list goes on.....
#4
The person I bought the bike from said its the crankshaft
Start with the basics. Is the battery charged, does the bike crank over, do you have a spark etc etc.
(:-})
#5
I had mine sitting for awhile (1 year) and it wouldn't start. Thought there was something wrong with the bike or bad battery, bad gas, bad starter. After days of frustration, It turned out that my kill switch was on. Probably knocked into. Hope it is that easy for you.
#6
It's normally best to start from the beginning, then go down the list until you find the problem. Hopefully you find it before you get to the end of the list.
Kill switch is always a good thing to have at the top of the list.
It's always best to hit the kill switch and/or pull in the clutch lever when your throttle is stuck wide open in 3rd gear.
Hope this helps.
Kill switch is always a good thing to have at the top of the list.
It's always best to hit the kill switch and/or pull in the clutch lever when your throttle is stuck wide open in 3rd gear.
Hope this helps.
#7
#9
After troubleshooting
After troubleshooting the bike, I looked at the alternator and the bolt looked stripped. I removed the bolt and found that the flywheel was bent and scraped. Im attaching photos for you. Could this be preventing bike from turning on? I also noticed (not sure the name of it) the black divider beside alternator has a missing tube. I will also include this pic. Would appreciate any help or tips!
#11
Crikey that's taken a bash with a hammer. Looks like it may have been lightened a little too (looking at the last pic) I suspect the damage is from someone aggressively trying to remove the flywheel for lightening. The damage should not stop the bike from starting unless it's affected the iron particles inside the flywheel. Is there a hole there (blurry pic 3)
More concerning is the long term damage with the flywheel possibly being out of whack from a balance point. This would put extra strain on the Crankshaft bearings. You need a rattle gun and a flywheel puller to remove the flywheel.
Looking at the pics again, has the shape of the flywheel deformed into an oval.
(:-})
More concerning is the long term damage with the flywheel possibly being out of whack from a balance point. This would put extra strain on the Crankshaft bearings. You need a rattle gun and a flywheel puller to remove the flywheel.
Looking at the pics again, has the shape of the flywheel deformed into an oval.
(:-})
Last edited by cybercarl; 08-29-2014 at 07:52 AM.
#12
After troubleshooting the bike, I looked at the alternator and the bolt looked stripped. I removed the bolt and found that the flywheel was bent and scraped. Im attaching photos for you. Could this be preventing bike from turning on? I also noticed (not sure the name of it) the black divider beside alternator has a missing tube. I will also include this pic. Would appreciate any help or tips!
Are there lights when you turn the key?
Is there any clicking or humming when you hit the start?
It could be one of the switches or relays or fuses or connectors, but there's no way to narrow it down.
Yes, that flywheel is bad, but before you disassemble your whole bike, start from the top and it will be helpful if you fill us in. Otherwise, I'm still going to say, start with the killswitch, fuses, sidestand/clutch switches, battery, r/r before guessing any number of mechanicals.
#13
I'm guessing the flywheel was bent in a crash. A dial indicator on the end of the crankshaft after the flywheel is removed will tell you if the crankshaft is bent. But it sounds like you are in over your head.
Remove the spark plugs, if you can figure out how and see see if the engine turns freely by hand with a wrench on the flywheel bolt.
since the side case was likely broken, the crankcase is most likely filled with gravel, so you need to drop the oilpan and inspect. Running it will be a disaster, but it sounds like the PO already knew that. I would not run it until doing a thorough damage assessment. Hopefully you don't already have an oil pump full of sand.
The black divider is the clutch slave cylinder. The fitting with no hose is the bleed port. It only needs a hose when you are bleeding air from the clutch hydraulic system.
Remove the spark plugs, if you can figure out how and see see if the engine turns freely by hand with a wrench on the flywheel bolt.
since the side case was likely broken, the crankcase is most likely filled with gravel, so you need to drop the oilpan and inspect. Running it will be a disaster, but it sounds like the PO already knew that. I would not run it until doing a thorough damage assessment. Hopefully you don't already have an oil pump full of sand.
The black divider is the clutch slave cylinder. The fitting with no hose is the bleed port. It only needs a hose when you are bleeding air from the clutch hydraulic system.
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