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Electric water pump question

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Old Mar 28, 2014 | 07:53 AM
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Electric water pump question

I just read the thread on the electric water pump.

I am posting this to see who has done it, how long has it lasted, which pump you used, and most important:

Does the bike run cooler with it?

That would be my only reason to do the mod.

Is the power run right off the battery? Also, do I need to mess with the impeller on the stocker? Meaning is it getting lubed and cooled by the coolant so may overheat or self destruct?

Thanks for any feedback.
Old Mar 28, 2014 | 08:21 AM
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Originally Posted by smokinjoe73
I just read the thread on the electric water pump.

I am posting this to see who has done it, how long has it lasted, which pump you used, and most important:

Does the bike run cooler with it?

That would be my only reason to do the mod.

Is the power run right off the battery? Also, do I need to mess with the impeller on the stocker? Meaning is it getting lubed and cooled by the coolant so may overheat or self destruct?

Thanks for any feedback.
The only answer I can supply is the impeller one.

The bearing is oil lubed... thats not going to change.

IF i were to do this MOD... I'd go to the trouble of removing the impeller, bearing and seal and machining a plug for the hole that leaves in the case.
Old Mar 28, 2014 | 08:46 AM
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Originally Posted by E.Marquez
IF i were to do this MOD... I'd go to the trouble of removing the impeller, bearing and seal and machining a plug for the hole that leaves in the case.
+1

I'd only do it for the potential increase in power IMO. You having cooling issues, Joe?

The power would be run directly off the battery I imagine (well, with fuses and ignition and such... and maybe a 10 second starter delay if I were doing it).
Old Mar 28, 2014 | 10:18 AM
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I am slowly working on/ piecing together a electric water-pump kit for a couple older hondas. I have 2 old VFR's, a CB-1 and a Hawk GT, for which the water pumps are longer available.

The pump itself is not hard to get. All you need to do is get the right flow rate. Too slow, not enough cooling, too much flow, cooling system wears out faster due to cavitation.

The next part is to select an appropriate controller. I also want to have a positive coolant flow and pressure indicator on the dash for peice of mind.

You will also need to block off the stock pump location. It seems easier on the VTR though. Locating the pump and routing the hoses is the easier part.

I am looking at some Bosch pumps. I think a one off complete kit is going to cost me close to ~$200. At this point I don't have any physical parts on hand yet. Only couple of drawings for the locations and block off plate and part# for the potential pump/controller candidates for my CB-1. The project has been on the back burner for the last 5 months since I found a good used replacement stock pump for the leaky one on my CB-1. I am swamped with projects that only essential stuff gets any progress. A case of taking in more than you can bite.
Old Mar 28, 2014 | 12:39 PM
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Davies Craig part number 9001 works for me!
Old Mar 28, 2014 | 06:32 PM
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sooooo...

is ken the only one running an electric water pump? I feel like there was more back when this topic started.
Old Mar 28, 2014 | 11:49 PM
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Yes, having (mostly) minor cooling issues. Honda don't seem to mind the bike running hot, but it bothers me. I live in the City so never enuff airflow to satisfy the side rads.

I have a 3x bigger oil cooler but still want better cooling.
Old Mar 29, 2014 | 12:32 AM
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My bike is a 2005 model and with the thermostat removed and the pump on all the time the bike runs at 81C.

Occasionally in heavy stop start traffic it has got into the 90's and once or twice 104 and the fan came on.


Runs at a very constant temp. I have an on off switch fitted and only use it to turn the pump off if working on the bike with the ignition on.


Otherwise Inhave it powered up from the battery with an in line fuse that came with the kit.


From memory it flows 15 L per minute and being brushless is good for 15,000 Hours at 80C.


Very happy with it, been on for about a year and it's compact and efficient.


I fitted it with a lot of other bits that I was doing , and removed the water pump drive chain and gear, but left the impeller in place .


So far so good, and the fuel economy seemed to get better as well, but that could be down to other things I did as well.
Old Mar 29, 2014 | 01:37 AM
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Originally Posted by kenmoore
Davies Craig part number 9001 works for me!
Had to check it out. Found it on eBay: $187 w/free shipping The listing has dimensions too.

EDIT: Jay Racing has it for $134.10 Not sure how much shipping is though.

Amazon has it for $162.99

Last edited by CruxGNZ; Mar 29, 2014 at 01:44 AM. Reason: Can't fucking sleep!
Old Mar 29, 2014 | 03:12 AM
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I chose the Davies Craig because I knew a couple of young blokes with Hot Japanese 4 Cylinder Turbos and they used them to boost the circulation in their inter coolers and swore by them.

The good thing is they are compact and that allows fitment wherever you choose.


Mine is now 12 months old and has been no drama at all. I wonder what effect this would have on a relatively standard bike?


Anyhow, Good Luck if you decide to do it.


Can P.M some pics for those interested
Old Mar 29, 2014 | 10:03 AM
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Thanks kenmoore. I think the impeller removal part is whats stopping me since I pretty much live on my bike. Once the weather breaks I can throw some street bodywork on the sv to fill in if needed.

I may hit you up for more info but thanks so far.

My bike is always in heavy traffic.

Throw that on the "next project" pile after sheetrocking the cieling and my spring oil change.
Old Mar 29, 2014 | 11:31 AM
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Originally Posted by smokinjoe73
Thanks kenmoore. I think the impeller removal part is whats stopping me since I pretty much live on my bike. Once the weather breaks I can throw some street bodywork on the sv to fill in if needed.

I may hit you up for more info but thanks so far.

My bike is always in heavy traffic.

Throw that on the "next project" pile after sheetrocking the cieling and my spring oil change.
Well the impeller can stay.. it's just unneeded. But its no more a failure point sitting there, then it is if in use.

And weight wise you're talking grams... If you're set to do this MOD, do it, leave the impeller till you have a reason to remove the right side case cover, then remove the impeller, bearing and seal, machine a solid aluminum plug, light press fit, and use some anaerobic retainer compound.
Old Mar 29, 2014 | 02:26 PM
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Here's your fix: Polaris Turbo RZR 1000XP XP1K CNC Billet Aluminum in Line Radiator Super Cooler | eBay

This and Engine Ice works for me (and I am running over 12:1 compression).....
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