unless you say you need it more than me. I don't have much dosh right now and dont need it too bad so let me know so we don't bid each other up.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eB...link:middle:us

 

I do need that lever bad. I'm going to have to bid on it. I only need the lever. if there's any other part of it you need your welcome to it if I win.

 

You can both get what you want, gss if you need the lever here you go.

Lever only!

Hope this helps.

 

Haha its late, thats just the linkage for the shifter. Im stoopid

 

Go for it and let me know via PM.

 

Sniper locked and loaded. You will be mine. Oh yes, my precious.

 

WTF?

 

LOL

http://www.auctionsniper.com/

 

is this service really worth it?

 

I use http://justsnipe.com/ @ $5/month and yes it is worth it. You'll easily save that much on every auction.

 

Could'a used that part last week... instead I had to buy it new for $35.

 

how do such services save you money other than what your time may be worth? please elaborate.

 

Suppose you are willing to pay $50 for an item "valued" at $100. On ebay's system you input your $50 limit, wait for the auction to end, watch as others bid it up over your amount because they value it more, and you lose. So you wait and try to bid at the last moment and not give anyone else time to out bid you. Right? Well, a sniper will do all that for you and is much faster/better at getting the bid in at the very last second.

I first started using these when I had satellite internet. It has a huge lag time between clicking the mouse and the data packet actually arriving. I was losing auctions all the time trying to time my last bid. Some will purposely schedule an auction to end at, say, 4:30 a.m. to encourage early bidding but that doesn't matter with a sniper program.

However, there is still a way you can beat all the sniper programs and all the other buyers: bid $110 for that item!

 

where did you find one for 35 new? the steelership wanted 96 for the lever!!!! for 35 forget ebay to much hassle

 

Thanks Doug, I thought that is what the services did, though AuctionSniper is probably more cost efective for me because of how little money I have and infrequently I buy on ebay. The bottom line though seems to be if someone else cranks up the price over what you want to pay, then there is no use bothering getting in the last second but if not, you get a better "shot" at winning. One more question, has anyone used or have opinions about alternative online auction sites versus "fleabay"?

BTW

 

They work really well when pitted against bidders who don't differentiate between the amount they "want" to pay vs. they amount they really "WILL" pay. This is a very, very important distinction.

Going back to my example: Item is worth (going street price) say $100 but most folks will only bid want they would like to get it for (say $50) and not what the really would pay (say $80). So they enter $50 as their top bid instead of $80 and hope they get a great deal instead of an OK deal.

Your auction sniper is pre-loaded for $95 (because you need this item and are willing to pay for it) but it waits to the last second and only has to bid $51. You won because bidder 1 didn't have enough time to realize his mistake, react, and enter his "real" $80 second bid. You saved $44.

Some auction sites now extend the bidding by "x" minutes at the end of an auction until bidding stops for an additional "x" amount of time. That's how you stop snipers.

 

The part I got was the left main step holder... dealer cost is $30.28
The shift lever is $49.02 @ dealer cost.

 

well I wish I knew someone to get one at Dealer cost, mark up is a B.......

 

Haggle, my friend... everything is negotiable.

 

AuctionSniper rules.

I never bid on anything, it bids for me with 5 seconds to go. If my bid amount is not too low or the previous bidders proxy is under my auctionsniper bid amount i win.

I don't run up the bid amount trying to bid on it early.

No fuss no worry and you do not get caught up in a bid war and pay more than you intended.

Also the bid group option is the best feature. Say you have an item you want and there are several on ebay. You simple create a big group for the item you want, enter individual item numbers in the bid group with individual price you want to pay for each item. Set it to bid on the bid group until you win one item. Say the first item is not the best quality, but you would still buy it for a lesser amount. You set that items bid amount lower than the subsequent items. If you win the first one the all the other items the bid group are null and void. If you lose the first item the AutionSniper waits for the next item and bids on it up to your max bid.

It is penny's to use........

 

Oh an if you intend to bid on something, don't tell everyone not to bid on it cause you want it. Especially on the same forum where most of the possible bidders would be lurking.


It is all about stealth and sniping it out from under someone.

It is a blast to ****** something away at the last 5 seconds or less.....

 

Thanks! Before my eyes went bad I could keep a 7mm Rem Mag in a 6-inch group at 1,000 yds if it wasn't too windy. At well over a half-mile, the target goes down before the sound gets there.

 

BIKEBANDIT.com
I think the rear set brand new is about $50.

davidsilverspares.com
He sells a lot of factory parts at a good price too. I just ordered some factory bags for the Viffer.

 

And then there is the guy who tells all my secrets for me.... lol I LOVE SNIPPING STUFF... I only started using sniping sites after moving to a place where my internet connection isn't fast enough.. when i was in DC, i would just time it right to place my bid at the very last few seconds... but with a questionable internet now, i cain't get away with that....

The biggest thing is when you find a item you want, you really have to decide what your HIGHEST amount of money is you would be willing to part with... I made the mistake of trying to snipe a rear bumper for my truck on ebay last year, and there was no bids on it at all, so i put a high bid of $200 on it via a snipping site, then after i lost due to a higher bid by another person doing the same, i was kicking myself because i would have gladdly gone to $300.00 for it... I usually figure my top dollar I would pay including shipping, then subtract the shipping cost, and thats my max bid, then i usually add a dollar to it just for good measure.. lol

there i go contributing to this madness... lol